Snowblower / small engine guys...

Cur

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I've dealt with this same issue on several small engines.
Also, did the fuel go bad? The ethanol will absorb water, separate in the bowl, and start to corrode the bowl and jets. No use trying to rebuild. Just buy a new carb.
I'd have to hear it, but if your bogging under load but still idling you could be sucking air (loose), or fuel starved due to clogged up carb.
Is it smoking? Sooty?
Does it surge too?


I want this.
No surging no smoking. Just bogs down when I try and throw snow. I haven't tried to purposely stall it out as I did have to move some snow (trail for the dogs). I've always added Stabil to my gas tanks on end of winter storage, and this has never happened before, snowblower or my generator.

Looks like Ed's will be able to pick it up next week as I don't have a truck anymore to get it down there. Then maybe 1-2 weeks before they can look at it.
 

Len-2A Training

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I keep thinking about adding an impeller kit.

How much hassle is it to drill the holes and line up the paddles? it seems like a very awkward place to try and get a drill
Logic and personal safety (I'm kinda attached to my fingers and hands) tells me that removal of the impeller to do this modification is the way to go. Removing the impeller means disassembly which is probably a significant project.
 

Dennis in MA

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Thankful my blower started right up. But I’ll provably bring it in for a tune-up at the end of the season. Replace the drive belts. Broke one the year after Snowmageddon. Don’t want that to ever happen again.
 

TLB

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Logic and personal safety (I'm kinda attached to my fingers and hands) tells me that removal of the impeller to do this modification is the way to go. Removing the impeller means disassembly which is probably a significant project.
Turn off ignition, pull spark plug wire and make sure not under tension (every thing moves freely) before working in there. Not an issue.

You really need to do this in place to line up the flappers correctly.
 

grey

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I keep thinking about adding an impeller kit.

How much hassle is it to drill the holes and line up the paddles? it seems like a very awkward place to try and get a drill
Logic and personal safety (I'm kinda attached to my fingers and hands) tells me that removal of the impeller to do this modification is the way to go. Removing the impeller means disassembly which is probably a significant project.
Remove chute and front bucket (have auger bearing on hand - you'll kick yourself for not replacing it then) and it can be done. With the chute off the impeller blades are accessible, one at a time. The drill bit in the drill is long enough and a ratchet extension coupled with a box wrench gets it fastened. Use a 2x4 to hold the impeller steady but theres no tension on it either way. If you squish your fingers (really cant) it's because you're doing all the pushing. I wont make it sound easy. It's a few hour project but it's not too bad either. If you go through with it you'll wish you did it a long time ago
 

Chevy 2 65

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No surging no smoking. Just bogs down when I try and throw snow. I haven't tried to purposely stall it out as I did have to move some snow (trail for the dogs). I've always added Stabil to my gas tanks on end of winter storage, and this has never happened before, snowblower or my generator.

Looks like Ed's will be able to pick it up next week as I don't have a truck anymore to get it down there. Then maybe 1-2 weeks before they can look at it.
Carb cleaning
 
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I installed it on my 926le. It can be a little tricky getting the pulley off. Also, as a side effect, the auger continually spins from the friction of 2 belts instead of just one. A little snow stops it but it's somewhat dangerous. It's supposed to stop after a break in period but I'm on my second season (light season last year?). If you do it, get a main auger bearing at the same time since its accessible and easy to replace.

Combine that with the rubber flap kit for the impeller and you can launch heavy slush to the moon
Yeah I remember when I first installed it the auger was slowly turning when not engaged but after dicking around with it for a bit it doesn’t do that anymore.
 

mac1911

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One thing I never learned to do was wrench on carbs. I hope it's as simple as that.
As long as you dont go sticking stuff in the ports like a tooth pick then have the tip break off and lodge in the jet port.
Small engine carbs are not to hard , if you can field strip your guns you should be ok
 

LuvDog

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One thing I never learned to do was wrench on carbs. I hope it's as simple as that.
Go to Harbor Freight... buy the ultra sonic cleaner. Toss the carb in there and let it do its thing.

The only other thing I've had to do for really neglected carb was to take some guitar string / piano wire and clean out the jets.
 

Bernietech

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I have a Craftsman 8.5 up 26" 15-20 years old. Tecumseh hm80/100?. Never cleaned carb,seafoam and mmo occasionally. Sometimes drain fuel after the season, sometimes not. Yes running on borrowed time but runs great. On original shear pins, did trash auger gear box and rebuilt it. Couple of belts, broke a bracket holding a cable, forgot which one, made a new on with heavy angle bracket, much better than the factory one,back saw and bench grinder...reg oil changes full synthetic 5w30.

Two years ago I added home made flapper kit for impeller,. Didn't help much, but didn't hurt either. Only did two blades though.

Two belt auger kit, anyone modified it to any other blowers???

Another great mod, added an old lug wrench using ss hose clamps to the shift lever. Making it longer means less bending to shift gears. Adj length to make it fully functional for your height and the "throw" distance.

Bernie
 

grey

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Two belt auger kit, anyone modified it to any other blowers???
Ariens had a design flaw for a few years so they made the dual belt kit to address it. I think the higher (9+hp maybe) hp models come standard with this now. The ariens models that needed it were notorious for shredding belts. Does yours destroy multiple belts per season or does it burn them up at a once per or every other year pace? You might be trying to fix something that's not broken
 
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Go to Harbor Freight... buy the ultra sonic cleaner. Toss the carb in there and let it do its thing.

The only other thing I've had to do for really neglected carb was to take some guitar string / piano wire and clean out the jets.
I would not use guitar strings--that stuff is sharp and can gouge jet orifices. I use fishing monofilament, plus carb cleaner. At most there is just a little film of varnished gas covering the orifice that you need to pop.
 

grey

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That model appears to have some odd ergonomics, which you've made some progress correcting. Most or all at this point have all the controls at the same level as the handlebars. Is it an MTD Craftsman? I had an 06 MTD Craftsman. It was ok but kind of a PITA compared to the same size Ariens 926. Something wasnt right with it regarding throw distance. Pully size? Maybe that's why the Ariens need the double pulley kit. It seems to have a much higher impeller speed. That may be your ticket to increased performance - smaller pulley on the crank or larger on the auger/impeller shaft
 

Bernietech

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Interesting idea, smaller pulley on engine. Both drive pulleys are split. If I add a washer at the split, the belt will ride lower and effictively reduce pulley diameter, ie smaller pulley. I may try that and look at the geometry and see what happens. Simple is better...
Tnx, Bernie
 

garandman

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Haven’t used our STE1124 Pro much the last two seasons so getting ready to sell it. New plug, oil, etc. So of course it’s getting finicky.

Replaced the friction disk. Now when I run it, after awhile the shifter pops from first to second.I’m thinking I need to adjust the linkage that controls the disk position. But don’t want to start adjusting stuff that doesn’t need adjusting.
 

grey

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Haven’t used our STE1124 Pro much the last two seasons so getting ready to sell it. New plug, oil, etc. So of course it’s getting finicky.

Replaced the friction disk. Now when I run it, after awhile the shifter pops from first to second.I’m thinking I need to adjust the linkage that controls the disk position. But don’t want to start adjusting stuff that doesn’t need adjusting.
Adjust friction wheel position. It's getting bound in the center of the disc sort of between reverse and forward
 

garandman

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Man is SeaFoam great stuff!

The 1124 (318cc OHV Tecumseh) always started on second pull. We used Ethanol free fuel but because we hadn’t used it much recently, it wouldn’t start except with the electric starter, and was surging.

Fuel was low so we added some SeaFoam and ran out the tank. Then put in more fresh gas and SeaFoam and ran it for 10-15 minutes. Then filled the tank and let it sit overnight. Started this morning first pull
 

garandman

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Adjust friction wheel position. It's getting bound in the center of the disc sort of between reverse and forward
Adjusted that, but it turned out it was the tension in the cable for the drive wheel. Loosened it 1-1/2 turns (presumably due to new drive disk) and all good.

Took longer to sell than I expected: 20 hours. Next cheapest on CL was a 926 Pro for $750. Great machine.
 

LuvDog

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Adjusted that, but it turned out it was the tension in the cable for the drive wheel. Loosened it 1-1/2 turns (presumably due to new drive disk) and all good.

Took longer to sell than I expected: 20 hours. Next cheapest on CL was a 926 Pro for $750. Great machine.
If I hadn't picked up jewcatis' pro 28 earlier this year, it wouldn't have taken you that long.
 
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