Snowblower / small engine guys...

Cur

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So I have an Ariens ST11528LE (926002) with a sub 5k serial. (Manuals here; use 926002) The engine is a 11.5HP OHV Tecumseh OH318SA

It starts normally, with the choke, and idles mostly fine. I say mostly because it seems the throttle isn't working correctly. Bottomed out the throttle control shuts down the engine, and that works fine. It doesn't seem to work otherwise. The engine idles / runs at one speed no matter the throttle position.

If I load the engine, whether it be engaging the drive wheels, or moving snow, it will bog down, using the headlight dimming as a 'gauge'. The more I load it, the more it bogs, the more the light dims. It doesn't seem to go so far as to stall out, but it definitely doesn't compensate for any load I put on it. I'm guessing there's a busted linkage somewhere, but I have zero idea where to look, or to what extent the repair would be (a pair of needlenose pliers or disassemble carb / engine...) I'm mechanically competent, but not enough to start disassembling carbs / top ends, etc. It was fully serviced 2-3 years ago by Ed's Lawnmower in Tyngsboro.

I'm right at the Tyngsboro / Dracut / Hudson / Pelham area, if that matters. Thanks in advance.
 

TrashcanDan

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"The engine is a 11.5HP OHV Tecumseh OH318SA "

We had a couple of those here. Started to run into that same issue. Tried to get carb rebuild kits for them.
I believe Tecumseh went out of business years ago, or at least that was the answer 8 or so yrs ago.

Ended up trading out for honda driven engines. Kept the old ones for belts, cogs, etc
 

LuvDog

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Could be as simple as adjusting the cable/linkage between the throttle lever and the carb. Pull off the cover and take a few pictures
 

Zappa

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I had one of those years ago, the carburetor came loose a few times due to vibration, had to tighten up the mounting bolts because air was getting in between the carb and manifold. Also, the mixture screw would go out of adjustment and cause bogging. If none of those things have been touched in three years, that's the first place I'd look to correct the problem.
 

Dennis in MA

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I hope mine starts this afternoon. It was far too early to check it last week. Or it seemed that way. Now I might be looking at 5" of snow tomorrow AM. I'd prefer not to have to lift it if possible.
 
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LuvDog

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I had one of those years ago, the carburetor came loose a few times due to vibration, had to tighten up the mounting bolts because air was getting in between the carb and manifold. Also, the mixture screw would go out of adjustment and cause bogging. If none of those things have been touched in three years, that's the first place I'd look to correct the problem.
I had this same problem on an old machine. Lost one bolt that held the carb on... it would get aligned when I would shut it off and start it back up... but after an hour of vibration is would be just off enough that air was getting in and messing up the mixture.
 
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Those engines have a bad history of governor problems. They use a plastic gear on the governor that breaks. The test is to run the engine and push against the governor lever. If you don't feel increased resistance with increased rpm thats the problem. If you find that the governor responds properly. Then you have a carb issue.

The fix for a broken governor gear involves splitting the crank case.
 

PaulR

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I've got a 12+ year old Tecumseh 8.5, it does in fact vibrate like a mofo. Throws good though, can't imagine what 11.5 does, must send snow to the moon.
 
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"The engine is a 11.5HP OHV Tecumseh OH318SA "

We had a couple of those here. Started to run into that same issue. Tried to get carb rebuild kits for them.
I believe Tecumseh went out of business years ago, or at least that was the answer 8 or so yrs ago.

Ended up trading out for honda driven engines. Kept the old ones for belts, cogs, etc
Someone bought them, OEM parts are still made and available.

OP definitely take the heater box off that covers the carb and look at the throttle and governer.
 
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Blue locktite should solve the carb loosening issue. Maybe the loose carb is causing the governor issue.
 
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I've got a 12+ year old Tecumseh 8.5, it does in fact vibrate like a mofo. Throws good though, can't imagine what 11.5 does, must send snow to the moon.
I have the 11.5 and did the dual auger belt upgrade kit and yes it actually does launch snow to the moon.
 

Uzi2

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Get an adjustable carb off amazon. Less than 20$
Why not properly diagnose the problem first before replacing something that's not likely the problem?

What the OP describes doesn't sound like a carb problem, it sounds like a linkage/cable or governor issue.
 

rosco61

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View: https://www.amazon.com/Blowers-Carburetor-Tecumseh-OH318SA-OHSK100/dp/B07P9D8893/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?keywords=11.5HP+640169+Carburetor+For+Tecumseh+snow+king+OH318SA+OHSK80%2F90%2F100%2F110+engine&qid=1575332139&sr=8-1-fkmr2
 

zboys

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Why not properly diagnose the problem first before replacing something that's not likely the problem?

What the OP describes doesn't sound like a carb problem, it sounds like a linkage/cable or governor issue.
Exactly
 

Chevy 2 65

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If you Bottom out the throttle control does it shut down the engine? or does it rev to high rpms and say running?

asking because you wrote
"Bottomed out the throttle control shuts down the engine, and that works fine. It doesn't seem to work otherwise. The engine idles / runs at one speed no matter the throttle position"
 

grey

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Why not properly diagnose the problem first before replacing something that's not likely the problem?

What the OP describes doesn't sound like a carb problem, it sounds like a linkage/cable or governor issue.
I agree but my time is worth money. As fun as rebuilding these stupid things go, check the basics first without splitting the engine case. I was mostly referring to the prospects of maybe not even finding a proper rebuild kit because tecumseh shitcanned their small engine division a few years ago. The adjustable carbs are better, cheaper and way faster than a rebuild. It also sounds like the op is in a little over their head (no offense)
 

grey

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If you Bottom out the throttle control does it shut down the engine? or does it rev to high rpms and say running?

asking because you wrote
"Bottomed out the throttle control shuts down the engine, and that works fine. It doesn't seem to work otherwise. The engine idles / runs at one speed no matter the throttle position"
These have a ignition shutoff connection when the throttle is dropped to the bottom. So it functions as it should
 
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Cur

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Another reason to buy a new man toy!
As much as I'd like to, I just spent a bunch of cash and this snowblower is only about 15 years old.

I took off the side cover, checked all the fasteners, hosed everything off with carb cleaner and wiped it down. Butterfly didn't seem sticky, the governor spring seemed really weak so I ran down and picked up one. After going over it once more, visually / fasteners, I replaced the spring, made sure it was secure and buttoned it up.

Started right up, idled fine, and as soon as I hit snow it started to die again. I'm done, called in to Ed's and get it fixed.

Thanks anyway gents.
 
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I have the 11.5 and did the dual auger belt upgrade kit and yes it actually does launch snow to the moon.
I had no idea they made an upgrade kit, thanks for mentioning. The belt has always been the weak link in the design on my 926003., couldn't handle the power of the engine under load. It always seems to smoke the belt at the worst time and then I need to immediately replace it in the snow.
 

grey

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I had no idea they made an upgrade kit, thanks for mentioning. The belt has always been the weak link in the design on my 926003., couldn't handle the power of the engine under load. It always seems to smoke the belt at the worst time and then I need to immediately replace it in the snow.
I installed it on my 926le. It can be a little tricky getting the pulley off. Also, as a side effect, the auger continually spins from the friction of 2 belts instead of just one. A little snow stops it but it's somewhat dangerous. It's supposed to stop after a break in period but I'm on my second season (light season last year?). If you do it, get a main auger bearing at the same time since its accessible and easy to replace.

Combine that with the rubber flap kit for the impeller and you can launch heavy slush to the moon
 

snax

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I had one of those years ago, the carburetor came loose a few times due to vibration, had to tighten up the mounting bolts because air was getting in between the carb and manifold. Also, the mixture screw would go out of adjustment and cause bogging. If none of those things have been touched in three years, that's the first place I'd look to correct the problem.
I've dealt with this same issue on several small engines.
Also, did the fuel go bad? The ethanol will absorb water, separate in the bowl, and start to corrode the bowl and jets. No use trying to rebuild. Just buy a new carb.
I'd have to hear it, but if your bogging under load but still idling you could be sucking air (loose), or fuel starved due to clogged up carb.
Is it smoking? Sooty?
Does it surge too?


I want this.
Combine that with the rubber flap kit for the impeller and you can launch heavy slush to the moon
 

LuvDog

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I keep thinking about adding an impeller kit.

How much hassle is it to drill the holes and line up the paddles? it seems like a very awkward place to try and get a drill
 
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