Sig Sauer P229 E2 9mm - My Take

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I just recently picked up Sig's newer P229 model, the E². For those of you who are unfamiliar, the E² stands for "Enhanced Ergonomics". Basically, they changed the contour of the grip to accommodate shooters with small to medium sized hands. The grip is an integrate single piece that literally snaps into place on the firearms frame. There are no grip screws needed for these grips, although the screw holes are still drilled into the frame if you ever choose to convert back to the conventional style grip. The texture on the grip leans more towards the tactical side - it's aggressive, but doesn't irritate your skin for CCW or even after a long range session.

Combined with the new enhanced grip, they come standard with the Short Reach Trigger, allowing for even greater access to Sig's double action pull for smaller handed shooters. Also equipped on E² models besides the new grip and Short Reach Trigger, is an installed SRT Kit (for faster trigger reset) and Siglite night sights. Another change on these models can be seen on the slide. The slide itself is actually a little thinner, rear cocking serrations go fully to the top as opposed to the earlier P229's that only went halfway up, and comes standard with a new bigger external extractor. E² also comes standard with an accessory rail allowing the mounting of lasers, flashlights and other accessories.

The gun feels phenomenal in my small-medium sized hands. I wore winter gloves for a while to get my hands a little sweaty; after I took them off and gripped the pistol with my slick palms, the texture still allowed for a perfect, stable purchase on the pistol while firing. So far I've had zero malfunctions of any kind after shooting this new Sig. Not that I expected any... I find Sig Sauer to be a very high end and quality firearm that I trust my life with.

If anyone has the opportunity to handle, fire, or even own a new Sig E² model, I highly recommend that you do. If you're in the same boat as I am and you have smaller to medium sized hands and find standard Sig's to be a little "thick" or "chunky" even, I think this new model will accommodate your hand quite nicely.

Thanks for listening. Any questions, feel free to PM me. [wink]

My E² with a TLR-1s flashlight attached. My EDC and home defense pistol:

SigE2Zombie.jpg
 
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Nice concise review. I've been curious about those (not that I'm really in the market for a Sig at the moment).

How'd you manage to get one? I didn't think they were MA compliant.........LEO?
 
Nice concise review. I've been curious about those (not that I'm really in the market for a Sig at the moment).

How'd you manage to get one? I didn't think they were MA compliant.........LEO?

Unfortunately I'm not a LEO, I was lucky enough to get one face-to-face in state. Last I heard, First Defense Firearms has one in P226 that you could take a look at if you wanted to. They have it up for consignment sale, but they won't sell it to a MA resident.

If you have a regular 226 or 229, you can have the grip converted over to the new style by sending it back to Sig Sauer's facility in New Hampshire. I don't think that changing the grips would be a problem with Mass law, although I don't know that for sure.
 
I just bought a new Mass compliant 226 all stainless. Nice gun but the trigger is horrible. Compared side to side with a S&W 5906 I prefer the S&W. I have the parts on order to improve the trigger, perhaps then the 226 will compare favorably with the S&W.
 
Just as an FYI, there are E2 conversion kits available to retrofit the E2 grips onto older models.
 
Great info! I'll take a look at converting mine. Hopefully I will fall back in love with it.

They had them on the shelf at the Sig pro shop up in Exeter last time I was up there, but I think they're restricting sale to Sig certified armorers. I'm sure they'll end up on topgun supply and the other usual sources soon if they aren't there already.

Personally I like the textured Houge G10 grips better but it's nice to have options.
 
I've had the opportunity to handle the 226 and 229 E2 and they really are vast improvements for the small/medium hand-size shooter. For me, even the 226 is now easily manipulated thanks to the improved ergonomics.
 
Does anyone know if this new style grip can just be bought, and installed?
Same with the thinner trigger, with the shorter reset. Don't really want to ship it, would rather
have a gunsmith do it for me, and save some money.
 
Does anyone know if this new style grip can just be bought, and installed?
Same with the thinner trigger, with the shorter reset. Don't really want to ship it, would rather
have a gunsmith do it for me, and save some money.


Yes, yes , and yes. All of those parts are available from Sig and Sig authorized resellers. (Keep in mind that the short trigger and short reset kit are two different things.)
 
Will the E2 conversion work on a P229 DAK? I'm interested to know how the E2 grips compare to the slim DAK-only grips. The short trigger and slim grips were a big improvement on my P229.
 
Will the E2 conversion work on a P229 DAK? I'm interested to know how the E2 grips compare to the slim DAK-only grips. The short trigger and slim grips were a big improvement on my P229.

Hmm, good question. I don't know for sure (don't have a DAK) but I don't see why not. The E2 grips do have a decocker cutout so they might look a little weird but they should be functional.
 
I just bought a new Mass compliant 226 all stainless. Nice gun but the trigger is horrible. Compared side to side with a S&W 5906 I prefer the S&W. I have the parts on order to improve the trigger, perhaps then the 226 will compare favorably with the S&W.

If you don't mind me asking, what are you going to do to the trigger? A big problem I have with some of the newer sigs is the single action sear break is horrible. It seems to vary radically from one production run to another, too. Some of them are just too heavy. Some are heavy and "creepy".

-Mike
 
Great reveiw. I really like the look of the 229 and 239 were the serrated part only goes halfway up and then its a smooth top. So Im sad to hear thats changed, looks more like my 228. But i guess its almost like a different gun (well slide and some internals anyway)
 
Great reveiw. I really like the look of the 229 and 239 were the serrated part only goes halfway up and then its a smooth top. So Im sad to hear thats changed, looks more like my 228.

Full serrations are the way they should have been to begin with. On the other hand, the half serrations were the "mark of the unwashed. " so it made it easy to tell which gun was a P220/P228/P225/P226 and not the newer "imposters". [laugh]

-Mike
 
Hmm, good question. I don't know for sure (don't have a DAK) but I don't see why not. The E2 grips do have a decocker cutout so they might look a little weird but they should be functional.

But there should be no issue with the SRT part in a DAK? I don't know if that particular part is interchangeable between all the models.
 
If you don't mind me asking, what are you going to do to the trigger? A big problem I have with some of the newer sigs is the single action sear break is horrible. It seems to vary radically from one production run to another, too. Some of them are just too heavy. Some are heavy and "creepy".

-Mike

You caught me at the right time. I just finished a lot of research on the SIG trigger problems in preparation for dealing with my new 226 SS. One option is to install the short reset kit (SRT) which will reduce the long SA reset. This can be done with a kit which is hard to come by (try the SIG forum) or the factory (NH) will do it for $95. They also offer a tuning package for $169.95. If I were to ship the gun to the factory, I would go with both.

The reason I decided not to go with the SRT or the factory tuning is that there are potential problems with the SRT kit. The overly long reset for the SA trigger is necessary to disable the firing pin safety for each shot. SIG solves this problem with the SRT kit that disables the firing pin safety as long as the trigger is depressed. This means that the gun could double should the sear fail to catch the hammer as there is no other way to prevent this problem, such as a half cock notch.

A couple of gunsmiths, Total Automation and GGI, have addressed this problem and come up with a trigger package that gives you a short reset without disabling the firing pin safety. Both have web sites. I just sent my 226 to Bruce Gray of GGI in Spray OR (the UPS shipping bill almost gave me a heart attack!) for the all out tuning package ($500) ouch! Both gunsmiths offer less expensive packages that just shorten the reset.

For those of you that find my description of the SRT kit and its shortcomings inadequate, there are probably many, the subject is covered in the SIG forum by more knowledgeable people.
 
I was at the Sig Pro Shop yesterday for the academy and had them put the E2 on my P229 that I bought last November. I like it a lot. Could use a little sticky tape on the front but I'm being picky. The trigger improved in that there is less slack to be taken up in double action and I think the single action. The cost was only $65 installed!!!! I couldn't be happier. They did it on the spot, and changed a spring in my Sig 1911 too for free. That's a great customer experience.

The day before, I stopped by Kahr because I had gotten an RA for something but didn't want to ship it. They shoe'd me away telling me I have to ship whatever I need taken care of. I don't think I'll be giving Worcester any of my support going forward.
 
Will pre-ban 13 rounders work in it? I thought i read that the 229 E2 now sells with 15 round mags.

My fingers are long enough that I like the regular grip on 226s but I would like to try the E2.
 
But there should be no issue with the SRT part in a DAK? I don't know if that particular part is interchangeable between all the models.

Super old thread and I missed this question the first time around. (Sorry about that.)

To answer: The DA/SA sear (SRT or non-SRT) is significantly different than the DAK sear. If you wanted to use the SRT you would also need to convert to DA/SA. In addition to the sear there are some other parts needed including the hammer, trigger bar, and (of course) the decocking lever assembly.

For what it's worth, and in my humble opinion, the conversion is a no-brainier. You'd have a completely new (and WAY better IMHO) gun after converting.
 
God I need to get a trigger job on my 229. Now that I put the apex kit in my S&W and did some polishing on the rebound slide I am starting to realize just how janky the trigger on my 229 really is. I'm almost tempted to do it myself but I'm a little nervous. The revolver was suuuuuuuuuper easy but the Sig's a little more complex.
 
Does anyone know if there are any plans for the E2 to become MA compliant? I want to pick up a 226 or a 229 for my next gun but I'm willing to hold out for the E2 either new or if one shows up in the classifieds.
 
Does anyone know if there are any plans for the E2 to become MA compliant? I want to pick up a 226 or a 229 for my next gun but I'm willing to hold out for the E2 either new or if one shows up in the classifieds.

I have a 229 9mm that I want to sell. It'll even come with a few pre-ban mags. Buy it and then buy the E2 grips for it.
 
Hey could someone who happens to have a 229 and a M&P 9mm , does the magazine from a 229 work in M&P? Just curious, they look very similar.
 
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