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Shotgun fit

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I bought a Tristar Viper G2, left hand version. I installed the lefty cast shim. I have to somewhat mash my cheek down on the comb to sight down the rib, and it seems pretty uncomfortable. Would the drop need to be increased or decreased? I have drop shims available.
 
Increase drop

How do you determine the proper fit of your shotgun stock?

As an aside, I have fit about 6 stocks for me. All of these were on o/u shotguns. I have come out to the exact same measurements on 5 of these. The resultant was by eye and feel and after the fitment was done, I measured the numbers. The 6th one was the same measurements from the factory but was kicking the hell out of me. It was so bad that a friend asked if he could shoot a round with it and after 4 shots, handed it back and said, "Screw that!" It was a 20ga too.

The solve for that was absurd. I added about 2 inches to the top of the recoil pad, 1/4" at a time, tapering to the original measurement at the toe. It looks stupid, but the recoil issue is gone and I have shot quite a few straights with it.
 
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I have never had a shotgun fit to me but I’ve heard it makes a world of difference. The ones I have all seem to fit me just fine though I shoot two in particular better than the others: Remington model 11 and Winchester SX4 with no shims installed.
 
As a quick and dirty method of fitting, try the following.

1 Unload and double check.
2 Position yourself in front of a mirror with enough clearance to point the shotgun at the mirror.
3 Practice a few mountings with the appropriate clothing you will be wearing when shooting. <--= IMPORTANT (winter and summer can need a change of pull length) It's why there are lots of movable triggers these days.
4 Close eyes and mount the shotgun pointing at the mirror. (If you break the mirror, it's not my fault.)
5 Open eyes and see how the bead(s) line up with your correct eye. (Do you see lots of barrel and then the bead? No bead in sight?)
6 Record the position of the alignment on paper from the shooters perspective. (eye to the left or right of bead(s), eye below or above or dead on the point of aim, do you see two beads? One bead superimposed on the other? Rear bead higher than the front? Front bead higher than the rear?
7 repeat without attempting to change anything, just keep the eyes closed and check eye alignment with the bead(s).

Proper cheek weld is important. This changes with individual facial configurations as well as all the stock measurements. I personally use what I refer to as a military style mount where my cheekbone rests on the comb of the stock and my face is as far forward as I can comfortably get. Consistency is the desired effect, when the gun comes to the same position all the time and you have a consistent bead position, then move forward with changing stuff. Make ONE CHANGE at a time and try it out.

People want the beads in different places according to the use of the shotgun. Trap shooters in general want the lower rear bead or a higher front one. It's a perspective thing and good on rising shots. I've heard skeet shooters like a figure eight for bead appearance. I never understood that since in one direction and the, the other, would present differing points of aim. To me, I like superimposed beads where the front one is just a bit larger than the rear. It's funny, I never see the beads on a shot, just the position of the target in relation to the beads. My concentration is on the target, not the gun.

Give this a try and report back on what you see for discussion as what to change.
 
Increase drop

How do you determine the proper fit of your shotgun stock?

As an aside, I have fit about 6 stocks for me. All of these were on o/u shotguns. I have come out to the exact same measurements on 5 of these. The resultant was by eye and feel and after the fitment was done, I measured the numbers. The 6th one was the same measurements from the factory but was kicking the hell out of me. It was so bad that a friend asked if he could shoot a round with it and after 4 shots, handed it back and said, "Screw that!" It was a 20ga too.

The solve for that was absurd. I added about 2 inches to the top of the recoil pad, 1/4" at a time, tapering to the original measurement at the toe. It looks stupid, but the recoil issue is gone and I have shot quite a few straights with it.
Nothing about pitch?
 
As a quick and dirty method of fitting, try the following.

1 Unload and double check.
2 Position yourself in front of a mirror with enough clearance to point the shotgun at the mirror.
3 Practice a few mountings with the appropriate clothing you will be wearing when shooting. <--= IMPORTANT (winter and summer can need a change of pull length) It's why there are lots of movable triggers these days.
4 Close eyes and mount the shotgun pointing at the mirror. (If you break the mirror, it's not my fault.)
5 Open eyes and see how the bead(s) line up with your correct eye. (Do you see lots of barrel and then the bead? No bead in sight?)
6 Record the position of the alignment on paper from the shooters perspective. (eye to the left or right of bead(s), eye below or above or dead on the point of aim, do you see two beads? One bead superimposed on the other? Rear bead higher than the front? Front bead higher than the rear?
7 repeat without attempting to change anything, just keep the eyes closed and check eye alignment with the bead(s).

Proper cheek weld is important. This changes with individual facial configurations as well as all the stock measurements. I personally use what I refer to as a military style mount where my cheekbone rests on the comb of the stock and my face is as far forward as I can comfortably get. Consistency is the desired effect, when the gun comes to the same position all the time and you have a consistent bead position, then move forward with changing stuff. Make ONE CHANGE at a time and try it out.

People want the beads in different places according to the use of the shotgun. Trap shooters in general want the lower rear bead or a higher front one. It's a perspective thing and good on rising shots. I've heard skeet shooters like a figure eight for bead appearance. I never understood that since in one direction and the, the other, would present differing points of aim. To me, I like superimposed beads where the front one is just a bit larger than the rear. It's funny, I never see the beads on a shot, just the position of the target in relation to the beads. My concentration is on the target, not the gun.

Give this a try and report back on what you see for discussion as what to change.
The two bead system was to see how well a gun fit in the shop. Poor mans gun fitting. Most shotguns are very “neutral”
If you find your self smashing your face into the stock try bringing the shotgun up higher in your shoulder
 
Nothing about pitch?

Pitch effects sight picture. As per the Browning diagram, the measurements would alter pitch.

I offered no alterations yet, just seeing what you should see.

The two bead system was to see how well a gun fit in the shop. Poor mans gun fitting.

If I shoulder a shotgun and see an obvious flaw in the sighting, the stock would have to be reworked for me to see a good sight picture. I agree it is a small attempt at the overall fit, but it is a start.

Trap shooters in general want the lower rear bead or a higher front one.
Is this not pitch?

Of course if the gun doesn't shoot to where you point it, that's a whole new discussion.
 
Pitch effects the muzzle rise. Comb height effects "sights" or "shooting high/low
Your eye is the rear sight.
 
This was all pitch.
The AMU had a great series on shotgun fit. I have not been able to find the videos in some time.
There is a lot to pitch, patterning and such. Take your time.
Some things I did to my 870 field for trap shooting before I bought a O/U with adjustsble stock.
I used spray foam to build up the comb and shape it. I glued a model railroad track to the rib to raise the rib. I used epoxy putty to build up the palm grip. Fun stuff. No digital camera then and that stock is long gone... UGLY but worked.
 
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