Sheered off my Dan Wesson scope base screws today

appraiser

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If you ever have to take them out of the gun, put a soldering iron on the head of the screw for a minute or so to soften the loctite/thread locker before you try to remove the screw.

Thread locker fills in the gap between the threaded fastener and the tapped hole giving it 100% engagement and it hardens after it displaces any oxygen

Personally I would be using a purple/222 loctite and proper torque on a fastener that small
 

andrew1220

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If you ever have to take them out of the gun, put a soldering iron on the head of the screw for a minute or so to soften the loctite/thread locker before you try to remove the screw.

Thread locker fills in the gap between the threaded fastener and the tapped hole giving it 100% engagement and it hardens after it displaces any oxygen

Personally I would be using a purple/222 loctite and proper torque on a fastener that small
I just ordered one of these so I’ll have a ballpark idea on the torque I’m applying. Also some blue loctite brand 242 threadlocker.
View: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi
 

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I'm using 20 year old bearing retainer - not tossing a $50 bottle if it still works.

Going from a #6-48 to a #8-40 will work as the #6 major diameter is the same as #8 minor diameter - but there isn't much wiggle room before you can't get full thread depth.
 

mac1911

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mac1911

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I just ordered one of these so I’ll have a ballpark idea on the torque I’m applying. Also some blue loctite brand 242 threadlocker.
View: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_od_pi
i have that and its not terrible vs my snap on 1/4 drive wrench. It should have a chart with it noting max torque for fasteners. 6-48 Im a 20inlb type for bases and unless specified by manufacture 12-15 for scope rings. IF your not going with longer srews just proceed with caution. The threaded holes could be a little worn also if that base was rocking back and forth.
If possible get a tap and run it through the holes to help clean them up.
I mention it almost everytime loctite gets brought up.
222 and the primer . Especially on stainless and anodized/coated parts.
 

andrew1220

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I'm using 20 year old bearing retainer - not tossing a $50 bottle if it still works.

Going from a #6-48 to a #8-40 will work as the #6 major diameter is the same as #8 minor diameter - but there isn't much wiggle room before you can't get full thread depth.
Yeah I'd like to avoid going bigger. I'd like to get DW's revolversmiths thoughts before going that route. I sent him an email but they're closed at the moment...

I dropped it off with Steve at Northeast Arms yesterday. He said it should be easy to get out. He said worst case if they have to drill it to remove it, and possibly damage the threads, they'll install a helicoil thread insert, inside the threads. But hopefully it doesn't come to that.
 

andrew1220

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You can see how uneven the contact is on your base to the rail. Might be time for a better rail or maybe bed that one.
As you should or probably found out some cleaners dont play well with stainless.
Now you have me wondering if all of the "goo" I saw underneath the rail upon receiving it back from DW, was bedding material? I assumed it was loctite as it came off with a little bit gun cleaner and a rag. Probably not bedding material if it wiped off.

I don't think it's very uneven?
 

andrew1220

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i have that and its not terrible vs my snap on 1/4 drive wrench. It should have a chart with it noting max torque for fasteners. 6-48 Im a 20inlb type for bases and unless specified by manufacture 12-15 for scope rings. IF your not going with longer srews just proceed with caution. The threaded holes could be a little worn also if that base was rocking back and forth.
If possible get a tap and run it through the holes to help clean them up.
I mention it almost everytime loctite gets brought up.
222 and the primer . Especially on stainless and anodized/coated parts.
Steve said he would clean up the threads if they're damaged - fingers crossed they're not. I can confirm 2 of the 3 holes are not damaged. The 3rd one I won't know until they get the screw out.
I got some new 242 loctite coming.
 

mac1911

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Steve said he would clean up the threads if they're damaged - fingers crossed they're not. I can confirm 2 of the 3 holes are not damaged. The 3rd one I won't know until they get the screw out.
I got some new 242 loctite coming.
Theres no real harm applying loctite to the base or bedding it for that matter? You can always add a recoil lug/pin like they do on heavy spring air rifles.
 
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andrew1220

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Theres no real harm applying loctite to the base or bedding it for that matter? You can always add a recoil lug/pin like they do on heavy spring air rifles.
Good point. Maybe I'll just add a little bit underneath the base for added strength. I think that's what DW did now that I think of it. That wasn't bedding material that was loctite. Derp...
 

mac1911

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Yeah I'd like to avoid going bigger. I'd like to get DW's revolversmiths thoughts before going that route. I sent him an email but they're closed at the moment...

I dropped it off with Steve at Northeast Arms yesterday. He said it should be easy to get out. He said worst case if they have to drill it to remove it, and possibly damage the threads, they'll install a helicoil thread insert, inside the threads. But hopefully it doesn't come to that.
I personally would not a helicoil, at that point just go bigger? Although theres not much meat on that rib.
 

mac1911

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Uh oh!! Well that’s not good...😩
I thought just the scope base screws came loose but two of the three screws sheered in half!😮
View attachment 356144View attachment 356145View attachment 356146

That scope base has seen 1500+ rounds since I got it in February 2019, so it held up for a little while. @dhuze I broke another gun...kinda [laugh] I guess my reloads were a wee bit too stout....

I’m hoping the screws can easily be removed from the shroud. Dan Wesson is closed otherwise I’d just ship it to their revolversmith and have them fix it. But it doesn’t seem like it should be that difficult for a machinist? I can’t remember if I put blue loctite on the screws. I definitely didn’t use red Loctite though.

Maybe just use an easy out tool? Going to bring it by Northeast Arms this week see if they can get the screws out then I’ll just have to try to find new screws. Also hoping the threads aren’t junk.

It would be nice if I could prevent them from breaking again. I almost wonder if they started loosening up and I continued shooting which broke them?

Shit I thought I’d break the scope before the scope base or the screws...
is there a scope mount option that can utilize the rear rear sight base mount holes?
 

marleythefish

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Yeah I'd like to avoid going bigger. I'd like to get DW's revolversmiths thoughts before going that route. I sent him an email but they're closed at the moment...

I dropped it off with Steve at Northeast Arms yesterday. He said it should be easy to get out. He said worst case if they have to drill it to remove it, and possibly damage the threads, they'll install a helicoil thread insert, inside the threads. But hopefully it doesn't come to that.

Helicoils are actually a very good option if you look into how they work, i wouldnt be afraid of installing them. In fact if properly installed they may allow you to move up a screw size.
 
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mac1911

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Helicoils are actually a very good option if you look into how they work, i wouldnt be afraid of installing them. In fact if properly installed they may allow you to move up a screw size.
They have come in handy for sure but I think inless the hole is FUBAR i rather get the 6-48 over size.
BROWNELLS .146x48 OVERSIZE 6-48 SCREW SHOP KIT | Brownells

In hind sight I might have had DW deal with it since they installed it. Theres a few solutions
Its all good and fun
 

andrew1220

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is there a scope mount option that can utilize the rear rear sight base mount holes?
I think there is a small rail that can utilize the rear sight base. I know someone on the DW forums posted a photo of a red dot that he mounted on it. A scope wouldn't work I don't think.
 

andrew1220

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They have come in handy for sure but I think inless the hole is FUBAR i rather get the 6-48 over size.
BROWNELLS .146x48 OVERSIZE 6-48 SCREW SHOP KIT | Brownells

In hind sight I might have had DW deal with it since they installed it. Theres a few solutions
Its all good and fun
Ohh I didn't see those screws - thanks for the link.

Yeah believe me, I wanted to send it back to DW but they're closed until this corona crap blows over. They're in upstate NY so who knows when NY will reopen...
 

Rob Boudrie

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Redbeard22

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I got a 10" .44 barrel from DW, drilled, tapped and shipped with their mount and screws (but mount not installed by them) 2 or 3 months back.

Because I didn't have the scope immediately, (went with a Nikon Force XR and Burris Signature Zee Rings) I haven't even had the chance to try the whole setup yet. I also know I don't shoot nearly as much, but now this makes me want to re-check everything. I didn't even think about bedding the rail, but with the force/ weight combination, it makes sense. Even a slight movement over time will "screw" you. No pun intended 😉
 

andrew1220

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I got a 10" .44 barrel from DW, drilled, tapped and shipped with their mount and screws (but mount not installed by them) 2 or 3 months back.

Because I didn't have the scope immediately, (went with a Nikon Force XR and Burris Signature Zee Rings) I haven't even had the chance to try the whole setup yet. I also know I don't shoot nearly as much, but now this makes me want to re-check everything. I didn't even think about bedding the rail, but with the force/ weight combination, it makes sense. Even a slight movement over time will "screw" you. No pun intended 😉
Nice!!
Interesting that they didn't have it installed. Both scope mounts on my 715 and 744 were installed by them (I didn't request it either).

Yes definitely make sure you loctite those screws and the scope base too.
 

andrew1220

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So tell me why you guys with young eyes need a scope on a pistol? And to violate a nice DW? What did that revolver do to you to deserve such treatment? [troll][devil][troll][devil]
I'm a decent shot offhand too without a scope but holding a 4-5 pound revolver (with scope etc) gets old/tiring fast [laugh]
And no way in hell I could keep that hand cannon steady enough to hit my 8" steel plate at 120 yards.

There's a lot of DW collectors who frown upon drilling the shrouds but this is a brand new shroud (not an old 70s-80s Monson, MA made shroud) and I'm not a collector is what I tell them. My guns get shot A LOT as you can see [laugh]
 

Redbeard22

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I'm a decent shot offhand too without a scope but holding a 4-5 pound revolver (with scope etc) gets old/tiring fast [laugh]
And no way in hell I could keep that hand cannon steady enough to hit my 8" steel plate at 120 yards.

There's a lot of DW collectors who frown upon drilling the shrouds but this is a brand new shroud (not an old 70s-80s Monson, MA made shroud) and I'm not a collector is what I tell them. My guns get shot A LOT as you can see [laugh]
I expect most of the shooting with all the extra gucci glock accessories will be from a bench and not offhand- its definitely heavy. I agree about not wanting to bugger up an original part too. Mine is a monson and only came with a 6" barrel. I will never touch that. Might as well get any new CZ made shrouds drilled/ tapped in case of the want for a red dot/ scope/ etc., but the orginal 6" shroud will stay original for sure.

I saw a post somewhere on here about someone using an old American tourister attache case to make their own retro looking Pistol Pac. That could be a fun project too...
 
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