Separating Seating & Crimping

[MAshooter1]

I am considering doing one of two things for my pistol reloads to separate the seat and crimp stages. Currently, I use the third die of your typical RCBS 3-die set to do both in one stage and I hate it. The two calibers in question are 9mm with 115gr RN plated bullets and 45ACP with both JHP and RN bullets.

Scenario 1: purchase a Lee FCD and use the third die to perform seating and the Lee to crimp

Scenario 2: purchase a Redding competition seater die, and use the third die to crimp

Do you see any advantage to one over the other? Clearly there is a price advantage (Lee FCDs are $21 as opposed to $70 for the Redding), but I feel the Redding may seat the bullets more accurately and provide better repeatability when setting up.

 

[rcoolbaugh]

I use a LEE seating die followed by a Hornady taper crimp die for .40 S&W and .45 ACP.

 

[DW357]

I seat and crimp in separate stations using Lee dies for 9mm. I had no issues with the Lee factory crimp die, but recently I bought the Lee taper crimp die as I "heard" that it can help with accuracy since you're not sizing the finished round to ensure proper chambering etc. Haven't noticed a difference in accuracy but it helps me sleep at night

But yes I recommend seating and crimping in separate stations and not buying the Redding die. It makes it much easier to control the amount of crimp - which is next to nothing for 9mm. Magnum calibers it becomes very helpful.

 

[EddieCoyle]

I'm not a fan of the FCD for beginning reloaders, but if you know what you're doing, that would be the way to go.

 

[MAshooter1]

I'm not a fan of the FCD for beginning reloaders, but if you know what you're doing, that would be the way to go.

What's your objection? I'm hoping to find out before I make a purchase I regret.

 

[Gammon]

The Lee FCD is designed to size the completed round to remove the unsightly "bulge" where the heel of the bullet contacts the case wall. This bulge is a cosmetic flaw that does no harm to the completed round. It is, however, possible for the FCD to resize the completed round to the point that the bullet's diameter is reduced and accuracy suffers, mostly with lead bullets. To paraphrase Col Cooper; the Lee FCD is an ingenious solution to a non-existent problem. Unfortunately the FCD's unintended consequence is a possible loss of accuracy.

 

[MAshooter1]

The Lee FCD is designed to size the completed round to remove the unsightly "bulge" where the heel of the bullet contacts the case wall. This bulge is a cosmetic flaw that does no harm to the completed round. It is, however, possible for the FCD to resize the completed round to the point that the bullet's diameter is reduced and accuracy suffers, mostly with lead bullets. To paraphrase Col Cooper; the Lee FCD is an ingenious solution to a non-existent problem. Unfortunately the FCD's unintended consequence is a possible loss of accuracy.

That makes a lot more sense. It sounds like the Redding competition seater die may be the way to go then, and use the RCBS taper crimp die to crimp.

 

[Nickle]

That makes a lot more sense. It sounds like the Redding competition seater die may be the way to go then, and use the RCBS taper crimp die to crimp.

That would be my recommendation, or just get another seater, seat the bullet without crimping, then through the crimper last. I do just that in a Dillon 500, works fine.

 

[MAshooter1]

That would be my recommendation, or just get another seater, seat the bullet without crimping, then through the crimper last. I do just that in a Dillon 500, works fine.

Thanks. I think I'm going to order the competition seater dies for 45 and 9, and get a standard RCBS die set for 38/357. For 38/357 I'll just run the cases through the seat/crimp die to seat first, then again to crimp. Thanks for helping me make sense of everything!

 

[radioman]

I love my Lee FCD's. I like the way you can see the degree of crimp by looking through the top of the die and looking at the segments and see how much they come together. You can dial in the amount of crimp very accurately. IMHO.

 

[BrianWilson]

I like the crimp the FCD makes and use it in the single stage press with cannelure bullets for my full power hunting rifle and 357/44 loads. I never really had any problem with the standard crimp though.
I do like the Redding Comp die. It is an ingenious design, really well made, and changing/setting OAL is wicked easy when trying different bullets. I do use the 3rd die from the set with the insides removed in the next station of the 550 to crimp. The only downside is when loading cast in high volume I have had excess lube build up inside the Comp die, causing the sliding mechanism to stick, resulting in (sometimes wildly) erratic seating depth.
Bottom line, for me anyways, if you are looking to try something new, and like neat stuff, by all means go for it, but for handgun ammo used for range/plinking/IDPA type of thing I don't think you will see much if any at all increase in accuracy or performance.

 

[Steve Marshall]

Why not shim the die when seating and removing the shim to crimp?

 

[EddieCoyle]

I don't like the FCD for beginners because if you don't know what you're doing, it's possible to horrendously overcrimp a rimless round to the point where the case mouth is completely jammed into the sides of the bullet, leaving nothing for the round to headspace on except the extractor. Doing this with a normal crimp die causes a bulge that will (thankfully) prevent the round from ever chambering. The FCD irons out the bulge, and let's the reloader continue to be an idiot.

I think a comp seating die for a handgun is a waste of money. I'd keep the die I was using now, then look around for the cheapest seating/crimping die I could find, and use it to either seat or crimp.

 

[1903Collector]

I think a comp seating die for a handgun is a waste of money. I'd keep the die I was using now, then look around for the cheapest seating/crimping die I could find, and use it to either seat or crimp.

I was thinking the same thing, seems like overkill for pistol ammo. I would just suggest getting a Hornandy die set with a taper crimp die and be done with it, but that's JMHO. I've been burned with two Lee dies in the last few years, I'm all set with the newer stuff.

 

[DW357]

I think a comp seating die for a handgun is a waste of money. I'd keep the die I was using now, then look around for the cheapest seating/crimping die I could find, and use it to either seat or crimp.

Agreed. I think I paid like $18-$20 for a Lee taper crimp die from cheaperthandirt.com. Seems silly to spend $70+ for a Redding die.

 

[MAshooter1]

I decided to forgo the competition seater dies and instead ordered a pair of Redding taper crimp dies for 9 and 45. Will report with results!

 

[Gammon]

I don't like the FCD for beginners because if you don't know what you're doing, it's possible to horrendously overcrimp a rimless round to the point where the case mouth is completely jammed into the sides of the bullet, leaving nothing for the round to headspace on except the extractor. Doing this with a normal crimp die causes a bulge that will (thankfully) prevent the round from ever chambering. The FCD irons out the bulge, and let's the reloader continue to be an idiot.

I think a comp seating die for a handgun is a waste of money. I'd keep the die I was using now, then look around for the cheapest seating/crimping die I could find, and use it to either seat or crimp.

The Redding Competition Seating Die has one distinct advantage. The micrometer stem allows you to change seating length or bullet type more easily as you can record the settings and simply "dial them in" according to the micrometer.

I use two different bullets when loading .40 S&W. 155 gr SWC lead for practice and 180 gr RNFP plated for matches. Recording micrometer settings makes changing from one bullet type to another easy.

 

[Nickle]

I think a comp seating die for a handgun is a waste of money. I'd keep the die I was using now, then look around for the cheapest seating/crimping die I could find, and use it to either seat or crimp.

I can tell you it's also a waste of money for most rifles and most shooters.

Unless you have a rifle capable of about 1/2 MOA or less, and the skills to make use of that, I wouldn't waste the money. Yes, I have a couple of these seaters, but they came with the dies from the shop. FOr real accuracy oriented rifle ammo, I use LE Wilson hand sizer and seater. And, that's only for a few rifles I have, that can make use of it. Regular stuff, no way.