School me on modern Springfield M1A's

I’ve got an LRB receiver/22” Criterion standard weight barrel/NOS TRW bolt/USGI parts kit/dummy selector M14 coming in a week or two, being built by Ted Brown. I was lucky enough to get the parts kit maybe two years ago, the last time Dupage had them. Figured now was the time to do this, before any new laws make it more difficult/impossible.

My total cost is something like $2600. It’ll be the one M14 pattern rifle in my US service rifle collection.
 
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Yes they were sold to civilians at Camp Perry in the 60's. My neighbor was there and almost bought one. Being a Korean war vet he was used to the m1. The whole point of the M14m was so they could be sold to civilians.
 
Yes they were sold to civilians at Camp Perry in the 60's. My neighbor was there and almost bought one. Being a Korean war vet he was used to the m1. The whole point of the M14m was so they could be sold to civilians.
That's the first I've ever heard of that.
 
I do have an M1A that looks like an M14 that came out of the armory in 1965.
From military.wiki

The Springfield Armory M1A is a civilian version of the M14 rifle designed and manufactured by Springfield Armory, Inc. in 1974. The term "M1A" is a proprietary title for Springfield Armory's M14-pattern rifle. Early M1A rifles were built with surplus G.I. parts until Springfield Armory, Inc. began manufacturing their own.

now I’m kinda left wondering what you ACTUALLY have. Any details? Serial range? Are you saying yours just looks like an original military m14, or that yours was made in 1965?
 
now I’m kinda left wondering what you ACTUALLY have. Any details? Serial range? Are you saying yours just looks like an original military m14, or that yours was made in 1965?
What I'm saying is that in my perception, this is what an M14 would have looked like if it came out of an armory in 1965.
It did not; I bought it in Carson City, NV in 1996.
Maybe some Vietnam era veterans can correct me if that is not what an M14 looked like.
I still need to pick up an M6 bayonet for it.

Springfiled M1A M14 serial number edited.jpg
Springfield M1A M14 right side.jpg
 
What's it cost now to build one up with a usgi parts kit?
My USGI parts kit (not including barrel, receiver, bolt, or bolt internals) cost about $600 a couple of years ago. All parts were in very good shape except for the flash suppressor (which has excessive gas cutting) and the pins (mangled). My rifle is currently being built (details above), and the cost is around $2000 NOT including the parts kit. Note: changed total cost above. Forgot I bought the bolt separately.
 
I'd get the standard 22" barrel because the short ones like the SOCOM are very loud. If you're looking for a precision rifle, the M1A isn't it. The M1A is probably the softest shooting .308 available and it will put a lot of bullets down range in a hurry so it's a great plinker. It's just not as precise as a bolt gun. A lot of people like the FAL but I found that it kicks much harder than the M1A.
 
I'd get the standard 22" barrel because the short ones like the SOCOM are very loud. If you're looking for a precision rifle, the M1A isn't it. The M1A is probably the softest shooting .308 available and it will put a lot of bullets down range in a hurry so it's a great plinker. It's just not as precise as a bolt gun. A lot of people like the FAL but I found that it kicks much harder than the M1A.
Really? I've owned two FALs and I've never found the kick all that bad at all, though the CETME is even softer.
 
Starting at $400 plus gas cylinder assembly, bolt, barrel and a couple other parts.....


They're selling bolts on that site for about $300, then the barrel... receiver... smithing...

$2k is sounding like a pretty fair deal all in, if you can find one ready to go out of the box. For a GI version, of course; I'd want something traditional.
 
I'd get the standard 22" barrel because the short ones like the SOCOM are very loud. If you're looking for a precision rifle, the M1A isn't it. The M1A is probably the softest shooting .308 available and it will put a lot of bullets down range in a hurry so it's a great plinker. It's just not as precise as a bolt gun. A lot of people like the FAL but I found that it kicks much harder than the M1A.

Really? I've owned two FALs and I've never found the kick all that bad at all, though the CETME is even softer.

FALs have the adjustable gas system. When properly tuned, FALs have less perceived recoil and can handle a wider variety of projectiles. When improperly tuned, I could see a FAL being unpleasant. I could see someone setting up the gas once and just never bothering to change it between different loads. Or, not at all.

I find a properly-adjusted, full-sized FAL to be the mildest of the 7.62 NATO battle rifles.
 
Reciever, Barrel. Parts are going to set you back 2200-2500 pretty easy plus someone to at min install barrel, lap/headspace the bolt and fit oprod.......the rest can easily be done by anyone with skills to put together an AR.....

I'd suggest a unitized gas system right off the bat.....one and donet

Might as well have your parts re-parked while you're at it

If you avoid having the gun 100% built you can avoid the fed tax......

Doesnt matter whether Tony Ben, Ted Brown, Lou @ LRB, Warbird in Tx or John Wolfe assembles it for you.....you'll end up with a properly assembled product.

I get that.

I'm not in the market, but I've made some trade offers in the past. US rifles aren't really what I'm into, but it's an intriguing weapons system and it's good to know my prices just in case one comes up.
 
Maybe the FAL i shot wasn't adjusted properly. It wasn't mine so I didn't mess with it. I just shot it and it wasn't pleasant.
 
M1A wooden stocks. What do you like for finish? I have a SA over sized Walnut stock. Beautiful piece of wood but the factory finish is a bit raw.
 
M1A wooden stocks. What do you like for finish? I have a SA over sized Walnut stock. Beautiful piece of wood but the factory finish is a bit raw.
Everyone has their own opinion on this.

I prefer Raw Linseed Oil. Note, RLO is not Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO). Don’t buy RLO at a home center though. Go to the a vitamin shop and get food grade flax seed oil.
 
My Smith Enterprise is not pretty. She's all business. Sights marked up like they should be.
You can see remnants of the Marine Corp-pattern "Pimp Camo" on the McMillan fiberglass stock. I didn't like it so I spray painted it. That's the second barrel that's been on it. The first Hart barrel has no rifling left 3" from the chamber.
20210228_153657.jpg20210228_153713.jpg20210228_153744.jpg
 
The first Hart barrel has no rifling left 3" from the chamber.
That just makes the bullet go faster.

Was that a 'smear' camo on your stock? Sought after if it is.

The barrel on mine. a med wt, serialized to the receiver with M118 LR chamber, is a little long in the tooth and will get changed out. I have a 'new' barrel as part of the XM25 build for which this receiver will be the foundation. It's an Obermeyer med wt. with 5R rifling, in the white and short chambered. It was left over from the start of the original XM25 project.
 
That just makes the bullet go faster.

Was that a 'smear' camo on your stock? Sought after if it is.

The barrel on mine. a med wt, serialized to the receiver with M118 LR chamber, is a little long in the tooth and will get changed out. I have a 'new' barrel as part of the XM25 build for which this receiver will be the foundation. It's an Obermeyer med wt. with 5R rifling, in the white and short chambered. It was left over from the start of the original XM25 project.
Here's a section we took of it. You can see the rifling, but it's not strong at all.
The rest of it ended up as the tap handle on my kegerator.
Bottom image is not my rifle, but it's what it used to look like. Pimp Camo
20210228_165911.jpg20210228_165834.jpgwm_11583894.jpg
 
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What's it cost now to build one up with a usgi parts kit?
You will most likely spend $1600+ depending on how well you source parts.
Then add any smith charges, tools
If your dead set on USGI parts dont limit yourself by price.
Seems right now its cheaper to buy one assembled?
 
M1A wooden stocks. What do you like for finish? I have a SA over sized Walnut stock. Beautiful piece of wood but the factory finish is a bit raw.
depends on what look your after or what level of protection your going after.
I like 100% pure tung oil over all. For a tad more "weather/moister" protection i use TruOil.
 
I have a 1987 mfg Springfield Armory M1A made with many USGI parts it shoots very accurate and fit and finish is perfect.
Back when firearms were made with craftsmanship.
 
M1A wooden stocks. What do you like for finish? I have a SA over sized Walnut stock. Beautiful piece of wood but the factory finish is a bit raw.
I bought an aftermarket walnut stock for mine as it was originally in plastic...I used what I had...TEAK OIL...from my sailboat stuff [rockon] and have gotten compliments on how good it looks.
 
I bought an aftermarket walnut stock for mine as it was originally in plastic...I used what I had...TEAK OIL...from my sailboat stuff [rockon] and have gotten compliments on how good it looks.
Almost anything will work and look good.
Teak oil is nothing more than some type finishing oil thinned out.
basically pre thinned BLO, TungOil ectect
 
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