Saiga 5.45x39 Rifle Mod Thread

Andreas

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If this isn't in the right place, please let me know!

A bunch of folks recently purchased Saiga rifles from NH Firing Line via this thread:

Saiga rifles lead ***Update post #52***

And since we're all going to be modifying the exact same firearm, from the same source, at approx. the same time, I thought it might make sense to have a place to compare notes!

So, what mods do you all have planned? I'm currently researching myself, and will post more as I know more. First, though, I plan to take her to the range tomorrow to try out in stock form!

[smile]
 
Ray talked me into this a little while ago, I started buying the parts, I was going to order a rifle on line, but then MFRL came out with this deal.

I just got my first box of parts in the mail today. Warsaw Plum stock set, bullet guide (hoping for a flat trunnion rifle, if not I will order a round guide next week), Tromix FCG, and grip screw/bushing.

I ordered these from http://store.carolinashooterssupply.com/servlet/StoreFront

Next week I am ordering the gas tube, lower hand guard bolt on retainer, AK74 brake and threading tools.

I am just hoping MFRL have one left this weekend, if not I am going to have to wait.
 
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The best part of doing a Saiga conversion is you can always change it around once the basics are done. You can start small and build it to look like the one I posted in the Saiga rifles thread. Then you have a functional AK style rifle that accepts standard magazines.

Then later you can decide if you want to add a bolt on handguard retainer and use a gas tube to outift your rifles with a wooden or polymer traditional looking AK stock, you can get a backing plate for the receiver and use an Ace stock, you can even go AR style with stock, and rails if thats your thing. You can even remove the gas block and sight block and use new ones with a cleaning rod holder for a true AK look.

Good idea for a thread though. Someone may post a pic of something they added that others haven't thought of yet. Seeing a rifle set up a certain way first often will make up your mind for you when it comes to which route to go. I have a black laminate Timbersmith stock set that I have no idea what rifle to put it on because I haven't decided yet. Of course I'll post a pic of it once I do add it to a Saiga so you guys can see what it looks like.[wink]
 
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Ya really I wanted to pick one up but it was not in the funds right now - I am going to be following this thread though for future considerations :)
 
One thing that keeps popping up in my head is the caliber... It seems the 5.45 was chosen because ammo is cheap? I have lots of guns and lots of different calibers... my thinking keeps going back to if I wanted to go this Saiga route, wouldn't it make more sense for me to get one in 7.62-39, same as my AK and SKS's...
 
wouldn't it make more sense for me to get one in 7.62-39, same as my AK and SKS's...

IMO, yes. If you're already "stocking" 7.62, then multi-purpose ammo trumps cheap ammo, within reason.
For myself personally, I had nothing in either caliber, and since I'm pretty much only going to use it as a range gun, the cheap ammo appealed to me greatly. :)
 
5.45 is cheap now but since AK74s and Saigas are becoming more popular and available, prices on ammo are going up too. The corrosive stuff in tins is still cheap but compare a case of Golden Tiger 7.62x39 to a case of Golden Tiger 5.45x39 and they're the same lately at shows.

I'm too lazy to break my guns down after every range trip and flush out the gas tubes, ports, barrel, and scrub the bolt so I stick with the non corrosive but keep cheap surplus ammo on hand for a last resort. I should note though that any 5.45x39 is a lot more accurate than even the best 7.62x39.

The main reason why the Saiga 5.45 rifles are popping up all over is because a bunch of them came in a while back and they're the most abundant right now.
 
5.45 is cheap now but since AK74s and Saigas are becoming more popular and available, prices on ammo are going up too. The corrosive stuff in tins is still cheap but compare a case of Golden Tiger 7.62x39 to a case of Golden Tiger 5.45x39 and they're the same lately at shows.

I'm too lazy to break my guns down after every range trip and flush out the gas tubes, ports, barrel, and scrub the bolt so I stick with the non corrosive but keep cheap surplus ammo on hand for a last resort. I should note though that any 5.45x39 is a lot more accurate than even the best 7.62x39.

The main reason why the Saiga 5.45 rifles are popping up all over is because a bunch of them came in a while back and they're the most abundant right now.

Thank you Ray, I hoped you would have an answer that made sense. Interesting that the 5.45 is more accurate, yet the 7.62 seems to be the most common stuff... I'm with you about using the non-corrosive....
 
Just got back from my first range trip with the Saiga in its original incarnation.

I had already cleaned the barrel and had scrubbed the receiver with Hoppes (didn't give as much attention as I did the barrel)

It shot very well! Fired 150 rnds of the corrosive mil surp. No failures of any kind.
I first bench-rested it at 25 yds (to boost my confidence mostly[laugh]) and was able to keep the first 50 rounds all in the black on a NRA 100 yd target.

I also bench-rested it at the 50yd. I kept them inside the 6-ring, but struggled to figure out to adjust my aim properly to get any kind of groups. Suffice to say, I don't really shoot "groups" with any particular firearm[wink]


However, I did encounter an issue:
When firing, I would keep the trigger held back as I would mentally snap a photo of my sight-picture. Beginning around the 50 rd mark, I noticed that when releasing the trigger, it would go slack.
In order to "fix" the problem, I would essentially "slingshot" the trigger like I would a slide on a Glock. It didn't do this constantly but it would happen perhaps 1-3 per mag at most.

Since I am planning on converting it soon, this is not too big a deal to me as I'm sure I will be able to fix it when I have the gun under the knife. That being said though, I don't have any experience with troubleshooting problems like this so I have no idea how to fix.

Good news is that I'm probably gonna have plenty of company real soon!
 
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Great minds think alike, BigMike!
I took mine out for its maiden voyage as well. Too nice out not to!

I had no trigger problems, and all functioned perfectly on the (very dirty and smelly) tin can ammo. I put around 100 thru it. I was just doing short range plinking, but it seemed pretty accurate.

This first try, tho, definitely inspires me to do the conversion. If only for ergo reasons.
 
Absolutely. It is.
I rinsed and wiped it down before leaving the range, and still had a rust spot in the gas tube. (wiped right off... but.. yeah.)
Time to do the full cleaning now that I'm home.


Ya...that ammo is the equivalent to shooting a combo of sea water and mulch/loam/dirt! This is turning out to be the dirtiest and most time consuming gun I own!

Currently having problems getting the gas tube off. Everything is just about clean except I haven't been able to get the damn thing off. Currently have a PM that I floated to the most excellent and knowledgeable flintoid.
 
Still struggling myself, but flintoid has suggested that when removing the gas tube, try rotating the lever on the sightblock as you do it. Mine is a stiff mother! Must be those tight, QC tolerances that Saiga's are known for!


Edit: I finally got it off. I blasted a bunch of M-Pro 7 and was surprised to see some less than quality machining.
DSC00291.jpg



This second pic is more from a straight overhead look. I rotated the sightblock lever to show contrast with the poorly machined edge.
DSC00292.jpg




After installing the gas tube again, I tried to see if it would come out easier. Nope. Atleast I have it off, so I'm gonna clean it good.
 
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Any tips for cleaning out the inside of the carrier bolt?

Still trying to figure out what the sticking point was/is. Technology has been slowing me down as I never post pics and such.
 
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One thing I found was that the gas tube came out easier when I pushed it back towards the breech and pulled up. Likewise putting it back in... push back, because the tab has to seat into the notch at the bottom.

I forgot to take pictures!
 
Any tips for cleaning out the inside of the carrier bolt?

On the inside of the carrier I just used a qtip. For the bolt itself I used a brush.
I'm quickly becoming a gunzilla convert... cleaned things up in no time and the action is smoother now.

Now that I did this sucker once, I think it'll only take about 5-10 minutes to clean going forward.

BTW: For getting the gas tube release lever to move (yes, they're tight), the little notch in the tube that holds the cleaning supplies is your friend.
 
Replace your current toothbrush with a new one and use the old one for scrubbing all the internals of your new Saiga after shooting the corrosive ammo. A section of cleaning rod with a standard 7.62x39 brush wrapped up in cleaning patches will fit the gas tube well. MPro7 is great for corrosive ammo and so is Simple Green or basic hot water (very hot). I like scalding hot water because not only does it disolve salt deposits but it heats up the metal so it dries quick ands leaves little chance of staying wet in tight areas where you can't dry.

Just remember to use an oil like CLP after cleaning and give it a good wipe down inside and out and don't neglect the gas port when cleaning! Pipe cleaners will get right in there when the gas tube is removed. An aerosol can of compressed air also is a good item to keep handy for cleaning.

If you find some rough machining areas on your rifle, no need to worry. These were built well but not as well as VEPRs, hence the cheap price we pay for them compared to a high end AK47. My advice is pick up a Dremel polishing kit from Harbor Freight and do some finish work to some parts. You'll need one anyway if you're planning on doing the conversion so you can grind rivets, sand rivet stubbs, shape gas tubes, etc. Plus you can pick up some tips from a few sites including youtube videos on polishing your new trigger assembly to give you a smooth trigger that breaks clean. The trigger on a sporter config Saiga includes hardware that makes for a lousy trigger pull.
 
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I was wondering... out of the rifles sold so far to people here, who has what for a trunnion? Round or flat?

Also, can anyone see threads under their barrel sleeve?
 
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