Safes, am I over thinking?

Sounds to me like you signed up with the wrong insurance company. 🤔

EDIT: p.s., what is a relocking device and what safes have them?
That's boilerplate for a policy specific to firearms and collectibles -- If you can carry or wheel it out, that metal box is not even an effective RSC.

Most heavy safe-shaped-objects (aka "RSC"s) include relockers:
 
EDIT: p.s., what is a relocking device and what safes have them?
In simple terms, a relocking device/trigger is designed to detect a physical attack and trigger a spring-loaded mechanism in response. That freezes the lock bolt in place, which in turn disables the standard unlocking mechanisms and prevents the door bolts from retracting.

I know that the Liberty USA series has a relocking trigger, as do most TL-15 safes, but I'm not sure about other brands.
 
And it would work all the same.

Do not overthink that, well, unless you need to keep a $50000 competition shotgun set in a climate controlled environment.


Those cabinets can be defeated in under 30 minutes with a crowbar/hammer. They are really nice and light to lug up and down stairs and meet MA storage requirements. But they do not work all the same, while he may not need an uber-expensive safe for a $50k comp shotgun, there is def a notable difference in security and fire retardant properties between said cabinet and an entry level safe (think cabelas house brand, TSC Winchester, etc.)
 
I'm pretty sure that Tractor Supply runs their big safe sale in the early spring. That's when they are pretty well discounted. That's when I bought the current safe that I have. Once nice thing about a new safe is that there is more storage space for more goodies ;)
 
Rules of owning a safe…

1. Stack deep, yes stack deep that they cling when you pull one out.


2. Buy bigger. Yes like that extra fridge you have for your beer and venison.


3. Safe queens. You may stack deep but don’t be that dick who collects and has low counts.

4. Don’t collect pre ban mags and charge over $200 dollars.

5. Last rule… Never tell the wife how much, or how many you have in that big safe.
 
Those cabinets can be defeated in under 30 minutes with a crowbar/hammer. They are really nice and light to lug up and down stairs and meet MA storage requirements. But they do not work all the same, while he may not need an uber-expensive safe for a $50k comp shotgun, there is def a notable difference in security and fire retardant properties between said cabinet and an entry level safe (think cabelas house brand, TSC Winchester, etc.)
You are absolutely right!

However, I have a Blink security camera trained on my safe if anyone was to go near it, I get an instant alert on my phone no matter what.

30 minutes is plenty of time....
 
You are absolutely right!

However, I have a Blink security camera trained on my safe if anyone was to go near it, I get an instant alert on my phone no matter what.

30 minutes is plenty of time....
Unless, of course, your home wifi happened to be off the internet at the time...
 
Unless, of course, your home wifi happened to be off the internet at the time...

Any “smart” thief will cut your cable wire before entering the house. It’s one of the reasons I went with an alarm system that connects to a providers network if the WiFi goes down. Don’t think many thiefs carry around a signal blocker.
 
Sounds to me like you signed up with the wrong insurance company. 🤔

EDIT: p.s., what is a relocking device and what safes have them?
CANNOT GO WRONG WITH AN EASTERN OR LIBERTY, DONT GO THE CHEAP ROUTE, YOU WILL REGRET IT IN THE END DO IT ONCE, EVERYONE SAYS THEY WILL ONLY PUT GUNS AND AMMO IN THERE, BUT EVENTUALLY IMPORTANT PAPERS WILL FIND THEIR WAY INTO IT, SO FIREPROOF IS A MUST. GOOD LUCK
 
Those cabinets can be defeated in under 30 minutes with a crowbar/hammer. They are really nice and light to lug up and down stairs and meet MA storage requirements. But they do not work all the same, while he may not need an uber-expensive safe for a $50k comp shotgun, there is def a notable difference in security and fire retardant properties between said cabinet and an entry level safe (think cabelas house brand, TSC Winchester, etc.)
30 minutes with a Crowbar and hammer?

I have one I opened with vise grips as fast as it could be opened with the keys
 
Part of this equation is necessarily the current value of your collection and the future, anticipated value that you intend to protect with the safe.
Which raises the question: will guns hold up in any safe in a bad house fire?
 
Do yourself a favor and pour a pad for the safe in case you get water in your basement. I used a 2x4 for the frame. Put a yoga mat or other thin synthetic material on the pad and then put the safe on it. Get a hammer drill and drill the 4 mounting points. If you try a regular drill you will just get mad. Put lead inserts into the holes and then use lag bolts to hold it in place. Put plenty of heavy grease on the lag bolts before you put them in. You or someone else will thank you, when they go to remove the bolts years from now.

I think proper mounting is just as important as your choice of safe. It takes a couple of hours and maybe $50 in materials and rental fee for the hammer drill. I will admit to trying to use a regular drill for about 30 mins until I wised up.
 
Do yourself a favor and pour a pad for the safe in case you get water in your basement. I used a 2x4 for the frame. Put a yoga mat or other thin synthetic material on the pad and then put the safe on it. Get a hammer drill and drill the 4 mounting points. If you try a regular drill you will just get mad. Put lead inserts into the holes and then use lag bolts to hold it in place. Put plenty of heavy grease on the lag bolts before you put them in. You or someone else will thank you, when they go to remove the bolts years from now.

I think proper mounting is just as important as your choice of safe. It takes a couple of hours and maybe $50 in materials and rental fee for the hammer drill. I will admit to trying to use a regular drill for about 30 mins until I wised up.
I’ll have to remember the grease.
 
Which raises the question: will guns hold up in any safe in a bad house fire?
Even if by "bad house fire" you mean, "fully engulfed when fire department arrives and burns for 1-2 hours" yes, but you're almost certainly better off paying for insurance than the extra cost of such a safe.

Most gun safes claim at most fire ratings of X minutes at Y degrees. But there's a 3rd number of interest, which is the internal temperature reached during that time. UL ratings, for example, specify 350 degrees F. Others specify a lower temperature like 275 degrees. So ask yourself, "would I trust my weapon after it sat in an oven for hours?" Then realize it's actually a bit worse than that, since there are more variables involved. Personally? I wouldn't trust such a gun unless it had been fully stripped, cleaned relubed and tested by an expert.
 
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Even if by "bad house fire" you mean, "fully engulfed when fire department arrives and burns for 1-2 hours" yes, but you're almost certainly better off paying for insurance than the extra cost of such a safe.

Most gun safes claim at most fire ratings of X minutes at Y degrees. But there's a 3rd number of interest, which is the internal temperature reached during that time. UL ratings, for example, specify 350 degrees F. Others specify a lower temperature like 275 degrees. So ask yourself, "would I trust my weapon after it sat in an oven for an hours?" Then realize it's actually a bit worse than that, since there are more variables involved. Personally? I wouldn't trust such a gun unless it had been fully stripped, cleaned relubed and tested by an expert.
350 degrees is a non issue for a firearm
 
30 minutes with a Crowbar and hammer?

I have one I opened with vise grips as fast as it could be opened with the keys
You are either very fast with that vise grip or very slow with the key. [laugh] I wish you had made a video. [dance]

Question (for context): How fast could you get into the typical Chinese Tractor Supply gun safe?
 
You are either very fast with that vise grip or very slow with the key. [laugh] I wish you had made a video. [dance]

Question (for context): How fast could you get into the typical Chinese Tractor Supply gun safe?
I bought the safe to convert into a curing oven , when I got to the shop the keys were missing so I clamped the vise grips on the tube lock and just turned it , the whole assembly turned and the safe opened 🤣

As far as the tractor supply safe I helped a buddy get into his tractor supply Winchester safe after his electronic lock failed , 10 minutes with a 1/2” cobalt drill bit about 10” under the keypad and the door was open , the whole locking assembly just fell off when drilled

The tractor supply safes are a good deal but the E locks locks only have a shelf life of about 5-7 years , and unfortunately you can’t replace them with dials because of the way they’re designed , lack of a hardened drill plate is a bit concerning

The Chinese box store safes are not even close to a good gun safe with a hardened and diamond infused drill plate and relocker

After the tractor supply safe episode I got freaked out a bit and bought a superior from eastern safe and the difference is quality and design incredible

You definitely get what you pay for
 
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I bought the safe to convert into a curing oven , when I got to the shop the keys were missing so I claimed the vise grips on the tube lock and just turned it , the whole assembly turned and the safe opened 🤣

I helped a buddy get into his tractor supply Winchester safe after his electronic lock failed , 10 minutes with a 1/2” cobalt drill bit about 10” under the keypad and the door was open , the whole locking assembly just fell off when drilled

The Chinese box store safes are not even close to a actually gun safe with a drill plate and relocker

After the tractor supply safe episode I got freaked out a bit and bought a superior from eastern safe and the difference is quality and design incredible

You definitely get what you pay for
all safe locks have one single purpose - to delay your own access into your own safe. :)
🤣😂🤣 so true
 
The tractor supply safes are a good deal but the E locks locks only have a shelf life of about 5-7 years , and unfortunately you can’t replace them with dials because of the way they’re designed , lack of a hardened drill plate is a bit concerning

The TSC safes that are made by Liberty... does anyone know if those can be retrofitted with a dial lock? I'm not a fan of elocks
 
Well except for any heat treated items, rubber and some plastics it shouldn't be an issue. :eek:
I wouldn't worry about heat treated steel at 350°F. Aluminum is probably OK at that temperature -- the service temperature of typical alloys is around 400°F. But polymers, rubber, and lubricants could all be compromised.
 
I bought the safe to convert into a curing oven , when I got to the shop the keys were missing so I clamped the vise grips on the tube lock and just turned it , the whole assembly turned and the safe opened 🤣

As far as the tractor supply safe I helped a buddy get into his tractor supply Winchester safe after his electronic lock failed , 10 minutes with a 1/2” cobalt drill bit about 10” under the keypad and the door was open , the whole locking assembly just fell off when drilled
I never thought of that approach for gaining entry into a "gun cabinet." [thinking] I'll admit, that's pretty slick. [bow][bow] [bow] I commend your ingenuity. Here I was thinking pry the door open. [slap] Guess I'd make a pretty shitty burglar. [laugh]

I wonder if there's any way to address that strength/design flaw?

10 minutes for a TSC safe? That sounds about right. So the difference between owning a "gun cabinet" and owning a TSC safe is about... 10 minutes. [rofl][rockon][cheers]
 
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