Rust on the barrel

[MidKnight]

After many many years of storage I got to finally take home my old semi-auto remington .22, which is just a great plinking gun.

However, it's been in storage for 7 years and has some rust built up on the barrel near the back sight. It's not much, just at the edge of the sight there's a brown line of rust. I would like to take care of it, but I'm not sure how to go about doing that on a gun. If anyone has any experience could you please let me know! Thanks in advance for any/all posts.

 

[JonJ]

I've used CLP and 0000 steel wool to take off minor rust. Worked well for me and left the blueing.

 

[Admin]

I use CLP and a plastic brush.

 

[mark056]

I've done the same as Jon.

Mark

 

[Nickle]

The best thing I know is also 0000 Steel Wool and some oil, or the same steel wool and some cold blue, preferably Brownell's Oxpho Blue, then some oil after.

 

[C-pher]

I've used CLP and a rag, and it's done pretty good as well.

 

[MidKnight]

Wow. Thanks for the responses guys. However, I do not own, at this point, any CLP (embarassingly I had to google it). I do own Hoppes cleaning and lubricating fluids tho. Would that be a suitable substitute?

A small amount of solvent with 0000 wool cleaned off with the lubricant?

Thanks again!

 

[C-pher]

I've never used Hoppies to clean of rust. But you can get CLP at any gun shop. It's great stuff to have on hand.

It's like the CLR of gun cleaners. It does just about everything.

 

[Admin]

I've never used Hoppies to clean of rust. But you can get CLP at any gun shop. It's great stuff to have on hand.

It's like the CLR of gun cleaners. It does just about everything.

+1 Midnight you should probably go pick some up. It's good to leave a small amount on you firearms when you store them so they never rust.

 

[Nickle]

DO NOT USE THE STEEL WOOL WITH SOLVENT. It will tend to remove any existing finish.

If you don't use CLP, use WD-40 or other light oil. I actually prefer WD-40 over CLP for removing the rust, then cleaning with a little sparay solvent after, then a generous dose of CLP.

I've found CLP to be a very crappy cleaner, but it's a good lubricant, and awesome protectant/preservative.

 

[Adam_MA]

DO NOT USE THE STEEL WOOL WITH SOLVENT. It will tend to remove any existing finish.

If you don't use CLP, use WD-40 or other light oil. I actually prefer WD-40 over CLP for removing the rust, then cleaning with a little sparay solvent after, then a generous dose of CLP.

I've found CLP to be a very crappy cleaner, but it's a good lubricant, and awesome protectant/preservative.

+1
I have gotten great success using only WD and the small wire wheel attachment form my dremmel. If you keep the speed low, and the pressure light you can get even tough rust off using that combination without harming the finish.

Adam

 

[MidKnight]

Great. I'll got home tonight and use some WD40 and 0000 or my dremel. This weekend I'll swing by a gun shop and pick up the CLP.

As of right now I just put some of my Hoppes lubricant on a rag, wipe down the gun, then wrap the gun in the rag between trips to the range (for my handgun). The long guns just get wiped off with the same rag. Is CLP going to give me any added benifit beyond my current method?

Again, thanks for all the help!

 

[Adam_MA]

Great. I'll got home tonight and use some WD40 and 0000 or my dremel. This weekend I'll swing by a gun shop and pick up the CLP.

As of right now I just put some of my Hoppes lubricant on a rag, wipe down the gun, then wrap the gun in the rag between trips to the range (for my handgun). The long guns just get wiped off with the same rag. Is CLP going to give me any added benifit beyond my current method?

Again, thanks for all the help!

CLP will probably do a little better job than regular oil to protect. Then again most any synthetic oil will do better than regular oil..

Remember, oil floats on top of water. If there is moisture on the surface and you just oil it up without thoroughly wiping down the surface first, the oil will not help as much as it can..

I have been reading some stuff recently about serious collectors that insist on drying their guns completely using different methods, some alcohol, some heat guns/hair dryers. Then using a good quality carnuba (car) wax on all the metal surfaces, followed by a light coating of synthetic oil. They say, once the metal has the wax on it, the water won't penetrate the wax layer to get to the metal. I know they are doing this on collectible rifles and pistols, and I have heard some doing this on their regular guns for storage between hunting seasons. They say there isn't any ill effects when shooting the gun, because the wax is a thin layer. I am thinking about trying this with the barrel of one of my guns before taking it to the range to see what happens...

Adam