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Ruger Precision Rifle woes

Ok, here it is. Muzzle brake is off. Still the same cheapo Primary Arms scope.

This is at 50 yards. Left upper is rimfire stuff that my friend's kids were firing. I occasionally have a bit of tremor in my right hand and this was one of those days. Ammo was, ahem, 125 and 110 grain frangibles. Still I think at this point it is my crappy shooting mostly and not the ammo.
Should have taken my bench anchor - will try to do that in a week or so, but so far it seems like the muzzle brake was the culprit.

Edit: recoil wise there is definitely a difference without the brake.
 

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durask said:
Ruger puts it on by default on Gen 2 RPR.

The less recoil the better?
Click to expand...

With those light bullets and somewhat low velocity for a 125grain projectile your at about 8lbs of recoil coming back at you. I'm really doubting the muzzle brake is helping all that much. Maybe a really good brake might reduce muzzle flip a little.
So now the fun part....WHY is the brake causing your issues.
Are the threads not true to the bore?
Does the brake affect the frang bullets differently?

Also if your shooting skills are a tad rough you might be better off picking up a 22 and practice with that.?

Just because Ruger threads a barrel doesn't mean you need a MD on there. Honestly Ruger does that IMHO for the "tacticool" look.

I called my friends son who is currently in CA and asked him what he is using. He likes the hornady GMX bullets he uses them for hunting and also 500-800 yard prone matches. He has a tikka rifle with a basic leupold hunting scope.
If I where you I would at least not spend the money you do on frange ammo and buy some of the hirtenberger German 308 NATO ( seems to be very accurate for NATO stuff ) I think it will shoot well enough for you to practice with.

I will also toss this out there.
Get off the bench and go prone and support the rifle stock with a big old sand bag.
Remember every time you change something something will change. If you go next time and have a different set up don't expect the same results.
 
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mac1911 said:
With those light bullets and somewhat low velocity for a 125grain projectile your at about 8lbs of recoil coming back at you. I'm really doubting the muzzle brake is helping all that much. Maybe a really good brake might reduce muzzle flip a little.
So now the fun part....WHY is the brake causing your issues.
Are the threads not true to the bore?
Does the brake affect the frang bullets differently?

Also if your shooting skills are a tad rough you might be better off picking up a 22 and practice with that.?

Just because Ruger threads a barrel doesn't mean you need a MD on there. Honestly Ruger does that IMHO for the "tacticool" look.

I called my friends son who is currently in CA and asked him what he is using. He likes the hornady GMX bullets he uses them for hunting and also 500-800 yard prone matches. He has a tikka rifle with a basic leupold hunting scope.
If I where you I would at least not spend the money you do on frange ammo and buy some of the hirtenberger German 308 NATO ( seems to be very accurate for NATO stuff ) I think it will shoot well enough for you to practice with.

I will also toss this out there.
Get off the bench and go prone and support the rifle stock with a big old sand bag.
Remember every time you change something something will change. If you go next time and have a different set up don't expect the same results.
Click to expand...

Certainly a lot of things to think about.

My problem is that I for now would like to avoid lead 100% (which means lead free primer and bullet) which limits my choices pretty much to nothing.
When my kids grow up and move out then I won't care about lead and will shoot any ammo I want [grin] but for now I would like to limit what they can be exposed to. Lead is really nasty stuff (will save that discussion for another thread).
 
durask said:
Certainly a lot of things to think about.

My problem is that I for now would like to avoid lead 100% (which means lead free primer and bullet) which limits my choices pretty much to nothing.
When my kids grow up and move out then I won't care about lead and will shoot any ammo I want [grin] but for now I would like to limit what they can be exposed to. Lead is really nasty stuff (will save that discussion for another thread).
Click to expand...

I would be more worried about the acceptable levels of lead and rat shit in your food and water.
there are better lead free options out there for ammo than that frange stuff.
 
mac1911 said:
I would be more worried about the acceptable levels of lead and rat shit in your food and water.
Click to expand...

Lead in water is easy to test for.
Lead in food - most food is grown on farms still and most lead contamination is in the cities (mostly from leaded gasoline emissions in the past). Now urban farming is NOT a good idea.
 
hornady, nosler, Barnes, winchester, just off the top of my head.
I cant say for sure if they have lead free primers...

My thoughts are I would be less concerned with the amount of lead from shooting than other factors or contaminants and sources.

Are you testing for lead after shooting? I dont really think the lead test wipes are all to accurate.... I only remember this from when my kids where born premie.....big concern for lead.
Fed standard 40 μg/ft2 what ever that means. Any how had my paint tested and house in general I have been reloading and shooting in my house 8 years before my kids where born..... House came back negative...
I think it was HES that did the test ? I forget we paid for the testing vs home kits....
I also get lead tested every year for my physical.....so far my Dr. says Nil and nothing to worry about.

I wont discount any hazards when it comes to kids I just feel like lead from shooting if your careful and keep it contained ( I dont wear my range boots in the house and my gear goes in a locked closet ) Im more worried about the idiots abroad than most enviromental hazards when it comes to my kids well being.
 
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Ryan.S said:
Still having issues? I’m looking at these rifles as well.
Click to expand...
I would avoid using this thread to help in your decision making process. There were too many questionable/unknowable things going on in this case.
 
I really think it’s the bullets- the rifle is probably barely able to stabilize them and the brake is throwing things off just enough.

I don’t get the lead issue.
 
Leave the kids at home, get a proficient shooter, buy 1 box of 168 or 175 match ammo.... Until that happens there is no discussion.

Re: lead - #6 lead shot in the breakfast cereal, to start off their day, toughens the kids up!!
 
bump out of curiosity

If your dedicated to the 110-125 grain frang bullets maybe invest in a 1/8 twist barrel the frang are (at least the ammo you listed) is pretty slow on the velocity. I wonder what the BC is also how long are the bullets are they long with a small bearing surface or little stubs
 
durask said:
I haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle in a while.
Since then I got Caldwell Lead Sled as opposed to my cheapo Primos Group Therapy rifle rest that I had before so that should help.
Also got this ammo
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Federal-Power-Shok-Copper-Rifle-Ammunition/2302632.uts

So hopefully can get out when it is not too cold and see what I get this time.
Click to expand...
thats better IMO than that frange shit.... i see that for use in "tactical" shot from a hk 51 or something up close and inside buildings where "Accuracy" is the least concern.
 
The rest shouldn’t matter that much. I shoot my Savage Model 10 Stealth off a bipod and the groups are tiny. I actually have the same cheap scope on it too.
 

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