Ruger Precision Rifle woes

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So, I had my 1st gen rifle for a while and decided to add on a muzzle brake. Bought a Ruger brand brake for RPR and a local gunsmith did me a favor and screwed it on for free.

This is what happened to my rifle - this is at 50 yards.

Last time I shot the rifle it was without the brake in the fall and it was hole-in-one at 50 yards.

I took of the muzzle brake and will be going back tomorrow...hope my rifle is back to normal...
 

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Sometimes, attaching/adjusting/changing accessories (weights, muzzle breaks, etc...) to the barrel of a rifle can seriously effect barrel harmonics while the device is in place.
 
That's some insanely poor precision at 50 yards. Assuming you're using an optic, that's where I'd be looking for a problem.
 
Sometimes, attaching/adjusting/changing accessories (weights, muzzle breaks, etc...) to the barrel of a rifle can seriously effect barrel harmonics while the device is in place.

Possible, but seeing as he is using a MD made by the same manufacturer as the rifle and is designed for the specific rifle in question, I doubt it.

I was thinking that the MD threads may have been slightly off of square, but OP says no marks on MD which eliminates that theory.
 
Wow, that's a serious accuracy problem!

Dropped optic knock something loose? If MD is only screwed on, take it off and make the shots. As mentioned above, dinged crown could do it. Again, you'd need to remove the MD to check.
 
With my RPR I'd be pissed if I got a group like that at 300!

It would take more than a dinged crown to get accuracy like that at 50 yards. Hitting the brake would probably cause even worse groups and maybe tumbling. I'm also in the loose optic group.
I was toying with getting their brake since I bought the 6.5 when they first came out, thinking twice now, I'll wait to see what happens here.
 
First thing I would do is remove MD and retest.
Then go from there.
What else did you do to the rifle since the last time out.
Remove action from stock...
Nock it over
Did you store it in a environment with large swings in temp?
Are you sure it's the same ammo.
 
That's some insanely poor precision at 50 yards. Assuming you're using an optic, that's where I'd be looking for a problem.

this, even though the work was done to the muzzle, could be loose. after you remove the MD should be easy to figure out.
did the smith drill a hole in the barrel for the pin?
 
Just curious, is your target 90-degrees counter clockwise?

Not that it matters too much, but I'm curious if that photo is showing correctly.

Also curious if your optic is torqued down & has loc-tite on it.

Did you change ammo recently? or use different brands or reloads while shooting?
 
lots of missing info here:
1. type of ammo
2. optic
3. optic mount
4. confirm optic + base are tight

the only way a muzzle device along could affect this drastically is if you're getting bullet strikes on the muzzle brake. the effects of the brake on barrel harmonics simply isn't that intense. something else is going on here.

what type of ammo are you shooting through your RPR?
who else has shot groups with it?

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this, even though the work was done to the muzzle, could be loose. after you remove the MD should be easy to figure out.
did the smith drill a hole in the barrel for the pin?

it's a bolt action. it doesn't get pinned-welded
 
No real sense speculating until you take some shots with the muzzle brake removed.
 
Just curious, is your target 90-degrees counter clockwise?

Not that it matters too much, but I'm curious if that photo is showing correctly.

Also curious if your optic is torqued down & has loc-tite on it.

Did you change ammo recently? or use different brands or reloads while shooting?

Optic is torqued down, no loctite. I did take the optic off another rifle but it did not give me problems before (have not used it in a while though) - so it could be the optic. Same ammo I was shooting through the rifle in the fall - well, different box obviously but same brand. Now that I think about it logicall - these are frangibles, if they were hitting the brake they would probably disintegrate - at the least the brake should have been covered with dust. So it is probably the optic. Will shoot more Fri or Sat and report :)

Target is on the side because it is lying on the bench :)
 
lots of missing info here:
1. type of ammo
2. optic
3. optic mount
4. confirm optic + base are tight

the only way a muzzle device along could affect this drastically is if you're getting bullet strikes on the muzzle brake. the effects of the brake on barrel harmonics simply isn't that intense. something else is going on here.

what type of ammo are you shooting through your RPR?
who else has shot groups with it?

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it's a bolt action. it doesn't get pinned-welded

that doesn't mean it was not pinned and welded ?

- - - Updated - - -

Optic is torqued down, no loctite. I did take the optic off another rifle but it did not give me problems before (have not used it in a while though) - so it could be the optic. Same ammo I was shooting through the rifle in the fall - well, different box obviously but same brand. Now that I think about it logicall - these are frangibles, if they were hitting the brake they would probably disintegrate - at the least the brake should have been covered with dust. So it is probably the optic. Will shoot more Fri or Sat and report :)

Target is on the side because it is lying on the bench :)

can I ask why you are running frangables?
 
Frangible ammo?? put some 168 or 175 BTHP through the rifle. Anything less is pointless for a precision rifle.

noticed youre not specifying optics, which usually means its junk glass.

too much missing info here and guessing game isnt fun so Im done here. Good luck.

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that doesn't mean it was not pinned and welded ?

can I ask why you are running frangables?

anythung is possible but I cannot imagine a smith pinning a brake on a bolt gun.
 
Frangible ammo?? put some 168 or 175 BTHP through the rifle. Anything less is pointless for a precision rifle.

noticed youre not specifying optics, which usually means its junk glass.

too much missing info here and guessing game isnt fun so Im done here. Good luck.

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anythung is possible but I cannot imagine a smith pinning a brake on a bolt gun.

This is MA and he doesn't name the gun smith
 
that doesn't mean it was not pinned and welded ?

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can I ask why you are running frangables?

Not pinned - I took it off already.

I try to use lead free ammo whenever possible thus my choice of ammo.

https://www.iccammo.com/collections/rifle-1?page=2

The scope that I have now is this one

FIXED LINK

http://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-4-14x44mm-riflescope-mil-dot-pa4-14xffp

It's cheap but should hold zero I hope.

I did have Burris Eliminator 3 on the rifle in the fall. The Primary Arms scope I had on a 223 rifle where it did not give me any trouble at 100 yards that I shot it at. Maybe it can't handle 308 recoil?

In any case, hopefully the damn rain will stop so that I can get to the range :)
 
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while i didn't plan to return to this discussion, you're putting 125 grain projectiles through a 20" barrel with a 1:10 twist. for 308 that's possibly the worst combination of barrel and projectile I can imagine. your lightweight frangible bullets are probably spinning themselves apart in the barrel. this gun will struggle with 147gr M80 ball ammo, let alone frangible bullets that are 20+ grains lighter!

this frangible 308 ammo is for blasting at closer ranges with something like an AR-10 or M1A.

again, you've purchased a precision rifle...shoot the correct ammo or don't bother. 168gr or 175gr BTHP's are a good start. that gun is stupid accurate if operated correctly.

here are groups my wife shot with the RPR Gen 2 (including factory muzzle brake) at 100 yards prone from bipod:

IMG_3590.jpgIMG_3587.jpg
 
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Rule #1: DON'T **** with a rifle that's dialed in! No matter how much you want to, don't do it!

This! Guy at my club shoots rimfire rifle plate shoots and is a gadget queen. Comes every month with different shit screwed on pinned on or added. He has yet to complete a match without a malfunction. [rofl]

Sometimes you gotta just leave it alone.
 
25 grain bullets in a .308 might be a problem. Frangible bullets in any rifle might be a problem. GI ball almost certainly will not give ultimate accuracy in any rifle but that has zero to do to the weight of the bullet.
 
25 grain bullets in a .308 might be a problem. Frangible bullets in any rifle might be a problem. GI ball almost certainly will not give ultimate accuracy in any rifle but that has zero to do to the weight of the bullet.

I run 110 grain noslers in my 1903a33 with 1/10 barrel a touch over 3000fps and they are out standing out to 200 yards. I do agree if your going to go lead free try some barnes bullets.
We all still would like to see your complete set up..... OP did you say you changed out your scope from your last outing from burris to what ever you have now....
 
while i didn't plan to return to this discussion, you're putting 125 grain projectiles through a 20" barrel with a 1:10 twist. for 308 that's possibly the worst combination of barrel and projectile I can imagine. your lightweight frangible bullets are probably spinning themselves apart in the barrel. this gun will struggle with 147gr M80 ball ammo, let alone frangible bullets that are 20+ grains lighter!

this frangible 308 ammo is for blasting at closer ranges with something like an AR-10 or M1A.

again, you've purchased a precision rifle...shoot the correct ammo or don't bother. 168gr or 175gr BTHP's are a good start. that gun is stupid accurate if operated correctly.

here are groups my wife shot with the RPR Gen 2 (including factory muzzle brake) at 100 yards prone from bipod:

View attachment 196389View attachment 196390

I'm not expert but I agree. I use my MVP with 18.5" bbl and 1:9 twist, with M80 itll hit the steel but when I switch to 168s or my 178 Amax loads it turns into a tack driver. I do use a surefire procomp brake on it but the rifle is only 7lbs.
 
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