Ruger Precision Rifle Muzzle Brake

BREWINZ

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First off, please forgive my ignorance. I just bought the "enhanced" RPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. However, it seems that the muzzle brake isn't timed correctly. It's about a quarter turn short of being perfect. Does this matter (functionally)? Any suggestions?

Sorry for the bad pics.

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StevieP

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There are shims (not sure if correct terminology) that are basically very VERY thin washers you can put on before the brake. They come in varying thicknesses and allow you to fine-tune what you're looking at.

Functionally (amount of recoil reduction) it doesn't make a difference. Aesthetically it sure does. If the brake is 'closed' on the bottom you also want it timed properly so if you're shooting from the prone position the blast won't kick up as much dust and dirt.
 

sgeary

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Use the proper wrench and just get a crush washer for it. Make sure you have the crush washer facing the muzzle device and tighten it until it's right.
 

92G

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Use the proper wrench and just get a crush washer for it. Make sure you have the crush washer facing the muzzle device and tighten it until it's right.

^this
if it's not clocked correctly i would first check to be sure it's tight. it's possibly someone loosened it after it left the factory. typically anytime i adjust a muzzle device i just use a new crush washer. Not sure if this is necessary but how i do it. rotate the brake until it's clocked correctly. it doesn't need to be perfect but you definitely want it like -/+ 15 degrees, not totally sideways or upside down as pictured. IMO that's no bueno.

- - - Updated - - -

Thank you, gentlemen. I would have thought it would come proper from the factory. I'll see what I can do. Appreciate the advice.

can always call Ruger if you need to. their CS is obviously top notch.
 
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Use the proper wrench and just get a crush washer for it. Make sure you have the crush washer facing the muzzle device and tighten it until it's right.

I believe the Ruger PR brake uses a jam nut and not a crush washer. Back off the jam nut, align the brake, re-tighten the jam nut.

"The jam nut is screwed onto the barrel, the brake follows, a 7/8" wrench is used to run the jam nut up against the brake to lock it into the desired orientation."
http://www.realguns.com/articles/858.htm
 

BREWINZ

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I believe the Ruger PR brake uses a jam nut and not a crush washer. Back off the jam nut, align the brake, re-tighten the jam nut.

"The jam nut is screwed onto the barrel, the brake follows, a 7/8" wrench is used to run the jam nut up against the brake to lock it into the desired orientation."
http://www.realguns.com/articles/858.htm

Let's pretend I don't know anything about this. OK, we're not pretending...

When you say to back off the jam nut, are you saying it can be moved toward the end of the barrel and stay tight while I move the brake toward the jam nut?
 
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Any possibility that ruger tunes the brake to fight rotational force from the rifle twisting.
 
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When you say to back off the jam nut, are you saying it can be moved toward the end of the barrel and stay tight while I move the brake toward the jam nut?

The Tubb's brake in the video mac1991 posted above installs & adjusts the same as the Ruger. Pictures of the jam nut both separated from and screwed tight to the Ruger brake are in the Real Guns article I linked.

"Back off the jam nut" = move it away from the muzzle
"Align the brake" = screw the brake towards or away from the muzzle until it is where you want it
"Re-tighten the jam nut" = move it towards the muzzle until it tightens up against the back of the brake. Holding the brake perfectly aligned while you get the jam nut tight may be a challenge. A combination of moving the jam nut towards the muzle and the brake away from the muzzle may be necessary to get it both tight and aligned.
 
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On the Ruger, it only comes with the thread cap, no jamb nut. Unless there is one with the brake he purchased.
 
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Any possibility that ruger tunes the brake to fight rotational force from the rifle twisting.

Possible, but from his pics, it looks like it would be way to much imo. Plus I assume that's a right hand twist barrel and there are no holes top right side. (Excuse me if that was a joke)
 

92G

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On the Ruger, it only comes with the thread cap, no jamb nut. Unless there is one with the brake he purchased.

the OP's model is the newer "gen 2" RPR which comes with keymod rail and muzzle brake already attached. the older original model had issues with many optics' objectives hitting the stupid quad rail in part due to the much appreciated 20 MOA optics rail that slants the optic downward.
 

BREWINZ

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The Tubb's brake in the video mac1991 posted above installs & adjusts the same as the Ruger. Pictures of the jam nut both separated from and screwed tight to the Ruger brake are in the Real Guns article I linked.

"Back off the jam nut" = move it away from the muzzle
"Align the brake" = screw the brake towards or away from the muzzle until it is where you want it
"Re-tighten the jam nut" = move it towards the muzzle until it tightens up against the back of the brake. Holding the brake perfectly aligned while you get the jam nut tight may be a challenge. A combination of moving the jam nut towards the muzle and the brake away from the muzzle may be necessary to get it both tight and aligned.

Thank you, sir!
 
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