Ruger Mark III or Mark III 22/45?

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Hi folks,

The price of .45 ACP is killing me. I like to put 200-300 rounds down range per session, and with ammo prices the way they are I've decided I need to suck it up and find an alternative.

I've done my homework and have decided on a Mark III with a 4.25-5.50" barrel (still trying decide which length). What I'm unsure about is whether I should go with the standard Mark III or the 22/45. I've handled them both and find the all-steel standard Mark III to be appealing, but the 22/45 grip is nice as well. It's a little on the thin side, but I think it would be easy to get used to.

Ideally, this .22 will serve as a practice gun for my 1911. I'll put 300 rounds through it per session and then finish up with 50 rounds with my 1911. It might also see some woods carry during hunting season.

Any advice on which Mark III to get?
 
I'm a sucker for the classic Mark II...I haven't handled a 22/45, but hear they are nice as well. Can you get a .22 conversion for your .45? If it were me, I'd go the Mark III classic...

I could get a conversion for my 1911, but I figure why not get an entire standalone handgun for the price of the conversion kit?

I agree about the Mark III classic. The all-steel grip is real nice. Something about the plastic 22/45 grip feels slightly cheap to me, though I'm sure it's durable.

I guess my question is whether the 22/45 really offers better 1911 simulation than the standard?
 
Same boat as you. Thought about getting a conversion for my Gold Cup or Delta Elite, but wounded up getting a used (but still in good shape) 22/45 complete with ProPoint sights for only $225. For the price, I just couldn't justify spending $250-300 for a kit when you buy a whole new gun for the price.
 
the 22/45 was specifically made to point like a .45 (meaning 1911).

I shoot a classic Mark III often for bullseye, but I don't train with it. Just compare
it with any combat gun and it isn't even close.
 
I have 2 MkIIs one is the target model and the other is a 22/45 and I tend to like the22/45 better. The grip is like the 1911. If you can find a MKII buy it it's less of a PIA to take apart than the MKIIIs IMO.
 
I have a Mark III and wish I had a 22/45 for the grip angle. However, I don't feel much of a difference in the feel.

I have a Tactical Solutions 1911 .22 top end coming in and I got that not onlu because it allows me to shoot .22 ammo but also gives me the safeties and trigger identical to my centerfire. I think that is an advantage since it will allow me to draw from the same holster to more closely mirror my centerfire practice.
 
I just bought a 22/45 a couple weeks ago. It's already on it's way back to Ruger[frown] Apparently no one told me not to try to take this thing down until you got 1000 rounds through it. It is the most ridiculous thing to assemble/disassemble. I did get to shoot about 100 rounds before the trigger group pin snapped in half trying to put it back together.

Other than that it's a nice little pistol[rofl]
 
I just bought a 22/45 a couple weeks ago. It's already on it's way back to Ruger[frown] Apparently no one told me not to try to take this thing down until you got 1000 rounds through it. It is the most ridiculous thing to assemble/disassemble. I did get to shoot about 100 rounds before the trigger group pin snapped in half trying to put it back together.

Other than that it's a nice little pistol[rofl]


I don't mean any offense to you (many have the same problem),but
I will never understand what is so hard
about taking these Ruger 22's apart and putting them back together. It may
be a little finicky getting things lined up but it really is a breeze. Any one
who has a problem with these and is willing to drive to Lee, let me know. I'll
show you how easy it is.
 
I have a mark 111 competition model, and love it, however I wouldn't mind something a bit lighter as I am,(how do I put this and retain my machismo?), petite.
The comp. version is the stainless one with the bull barrell, and it's great for me, very accurate, no problems with any ammo I feed it.

Tim
 
I also have the 22/45 and I love it. I like the feel of it and it shoots dead on. The ruger plastic ALWAYS feels cheap but seems to hold up really well.

I don't think mechanically it is difficult to break down, but getting the barrel off the frame the first few times can be a total b*tch. You have to use a rubber mallet to break it free. Once you have done it a few times it gets easy enough to just bang it on a wood surface... preferably not your wife's favorite coffee table though....
 
I don't mean any offense to you (many have the same problem),but
I will never understand what is so hard
about taking these Ruger 22's apart and putting them back together. It may
be a little finicky getting things lined up but it really is a breeze. Any one
who has a problem with these and is willing to drive to Lee, let me know. I'll
show you how easy it is.

No offense taken, I'm pretty secure in my mechanical abilities[smile]
Maybe you got a real loose one. How was it the first couple times?

As I posted the gun had to be sent back because the pin that pivots the trigger actually broke in half while putting it together. Maybe I got a bad one I don't know. That problem aside, I bought the gun with the intentions of target shooting it. I'm a "reborn" 1911 guy who doesn't have a ton of money to shoot .45s all day[sad2] I only have about 100 rounds through it, but I like the way it feels. It is a pretty true copy of the 1911 grip.

We'll see when it comes back. BTW, to the OP, we're on the same page. That's why I bought mine. I spoke to someone on the phone at Ruger who was real nice. I'm hoping my experience with Customer Service continues to be good.
 
I have a 22/45 Hunter and I kind of wish I got the Mk III Hunter. The 22/45 does have the 1911 grip angle but the grip is too small around for my hands. Plus, aftermarket grips are available for the Mk III. Anyone want to do an even trade for a Mk III Hunter or Target?
 
I took mine apart for the first time a week or two ago. I watched a bunch of youtube videos and looked at a bunch of web pages in advance.

The videos show pulling the bolt stop pin out. They mention that if it is the first time you may need to tap it. I had to drive it out with a plastic pen body and a hammer.

Putting it back together was fun. Getting the holes perfectly aligned so that the bolt stop pin could be reinserted was a PITA. The gun was brand new an the barrel/receiver to grip connection is tight and hard to move. Light taps with a wooden mallet helped.

The next part was my fault. I thought the hammer was all the way forward but it wasn't. That prevented me from getting the bolt stop pin and mainspring to go back into the grip.

I think it took me 2 hours in total. Knowing what I know now it will be much faster the second time around.
 
No offense taken, I'm pretty secure in my mechanical abilities[smile]
Maybe you got a real loose one. How was it the first couple times?

As I posted the gun had to be sent back because the pin that pivots the trigger actually broke in half while putting it together. Maybe I got a bad one I don't know. That problem aside, I bought the gun with the intentions of target shooting it. I'm a "reborn" 1911 guy who doesn't have a ton of money to shoot .45s all day[sad2] I only have about 100 rounds through it, but I like the way it feels. It is a pretty true copy of the 1911 grip.

We'll see when it comes back. BTW, to the OP, we're on the same page. That's why I bought mine. I spoke to someone on the phone at Ruger who was real nice. I'm hoping my experience with Customer Service continues to be good.

Mine is very tight, I keep a rubber hammer in the box with it. I have to bang it apart as well as bang it back together. The first time I did it I took plenty of time because I was warned about how difficult they are to put back together. If the directions are followed exactly, and attention is paid to alignment it goes together just fine.

I'll bet the biggest issue people have is not moving the hammer far enough forward before installing the main spring (as the previous poster mentioned). Before you put your barrel back on, move the hammer forward to its striking position and make a note of how far forward it is. This is where it needs to be befor you can install the mainspring. Also, I have to hammer my barrel into place on the frame and when I do I pay very close attention to the radial position of it to the frame. I sometimes even push the pin from the mainspring up into the frame/barrel connection to check alignment before installing the bolt.

I'm not saying its as easy as some of my ohter guns, but, just that its not that hard either. The fits are very tight, which is a good thing for a target gun.
 
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