Ruger Mark III 22/45 build

eboos

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After considering it for months, I picked up a Ruger MK III 22/45 (model 10158) to build for Rimfire Pistol Iron Sight Steel Challenge. Parts are on order, and I will post buildup info with photos.
 
I ordered a Tandemkross Victory Trigger; a Tandemkross hammer bushing; a Volquartzen sear; and a Tactical Solutions Trail-lite front sight.

The first mod that I did was to remove the metal plate from the loaded chamber indicator. The metal plate is what activates the loaded chamber indicator, and it could cause malfunctions. I just removed the metal plate and reinstalled the LCI with the springs in place. I may later make a LCI filler plate out of aluminum, but this isn't a priority to me.

I was initially tempted to get the full Volquartzen accurizing kit, but after doing a little research, I learned that I would receive little benefit from it and that it is only the sear that I would want. This is especially true if you do not wish to use the Volquartzen trigger.

The initial trigger pull was 5.5lbs weighed with my NRA trigger pull weights. I was expecting the pull to be heavier, because it felt very heavy. I guess I have been spoiled by my 1911.

Stripping a Ruger MKiii (in this case the 22/45 which has some differences), is not nearly as difficult as it was made out to be. With the factory magazine disconnect, there is some fiddling with inserting the mag in order to bring the hammer forward, and then removing it to release the mainspring housing, but it wasn't really that big a deal. Regardless, the magazine disconnect was going to be removed with the addition of the new hammer bushing.

When disassembling the trigger group, you have to be aware that the trigger and hammer pins are captured by a spring that may be hard to see. By attempting to drift the pins out without releasing the springs you risk bending the springs.

I lightly polished the trigger bar detent, and broke the edges of the hammer with a ceramic stone. I left the hammer hooks alone. Didn't see much of a need to mess with anything else.

Reassembly was pretty easy once you figure out the orientation of everything. Youtube videos I found not to be terribly helpful since there seems to be a lack of lighting and zoom. Once I got it all back together I tested the trigger pull again. This time it was about 24oz. [shocked] Something wasn't right! The long arm of the sear spring is what puts tension on the hammer pin to capture it. I checked to see what position I had the long arm, and sure enough, I had it in front of the hammer pin, not behind the hammer pin where it was supposed to be. By placing the long arm behind the hammer pin, you are winding the spring a little, adding preload. Once I put it back together with this simple fix, the trigger pull measured at 2.5lbs.

The fiber optic front sight comes in two sizes. Get the taller (0.440") one if you have the factory adjustable sights. The fiber optic is nice and bright, but I am disappointed that the sight itself is made of plastic. It installs with just one screw.

Overall, I am happy with the mods. No more magazine disconnect, and now the magazines will all drop freely. The trigger is awesome. I love it. The trigger pull is crisp, and all of the over-travel and pre-travel is taken out.

Sorry no pics yet, but I will post some soon.

Edit: By the way, the sear spring thing is specific to the 22/45. This uses a different sear spring then the standard MKiii (and likely MKiv). The sear spring that comes with the Volquartzen sear is for standard models, and 22/45's need to use their factory sear spring.
 
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Not counting extra magazines, so far $475. I don't expect to be adding anything more at this point. I would like an open class gun too, but CT doesn't allow any semiauto pistol to have a threaded barrel (yes, even rimfire), so that rules out adding a comp.
 
Not counting extra magazines, so far $475. I don't expect to be adding anything more at this point. I would like an open class gun too, but CT doesn't allow any semiauto pistol to have a threaded barrel (yes, even rimfire), so that rules out adding a comp.

I shot with a few guys in CT who had open guns (both centerfire and rimfire). I think most of them just don't care about CT gun laws. Can't say I blame them.
 
Not counting extra magazines, so far $475. I don't expect to be adding anything more at this point. I would like an open class gun too, but CT doesn't allow any semiauto pistol to have a threaded barrel (yes, even rimfire), so that rules out adding a comp.


Oh. That's a lot less than I assumed.

I had a snarky comment all cued up, along the lines of "why spend $1000 making a pistol that will never shoot as good as a Hammerli Xesse for $900?"


I withdraw the thought. Carry on.
 
Not counting extra magazines, so far $475. I don't expect to be adding anything more at this point. I would like an open class gun too, but CT doesn't allow any semiauto pistol to have a threaded barrel (yes, even rimfire), so that rules out adding a comp.

I can't seem to find one now but I know Volquartsen used to make a clamp on muzzle brake for the bull barrel Ruger pistols. I can't claim on how much they help muzzle rise with the mighty .22LR but it should help the timer pick up the last shot. However, it's really only the 10/22 rifles that we have trouble picking up the shots with.
 
I can't seem to find one now but I know Volquartsen used to make a clamp on muzzle brake for the bull barrel Ruger pistols. I can't claim on how much they help muzzle rise with the mighty .22LR but it should help the timer pick up the last shot.

I put one on the Mark II that I shoot bullseye with. I was VERY surprised to discover that it really does tame the muzzle rise - the red dot barely moves off the bull with it. Unfortunately, it does add a noticeable weight to the end of the muzzle if you're shooting one handed. I did notice a bit more wobble in my sight picture because of the weight, so I took it off. (let me know if you want to buy it! ;) )
 
Good write up eboos. You went along the line of mods I did in a slightly different order. I had bought an "as new" Mklll LITE then added new bits as I acquired them after doing some deep reading and thorough you-tube sessions. Budget mattered but I wanted the best I could get for my buck. First mods were a Volquartsen Sear and a TK hammer bushing. These alone made the biggest difference in trigger performance. I added a compensator that I later set aside as I did not feel it improved performance nor accuracy. Then came the adjustable TK Victory Trigger... Awesome upgrade. Williams firesights helped my older eyes pick up my sight picture and reduced my groups dramatically over the factory ones, later following up wit a red dot. I bought some target grips that I love the feel of but I found that in the winter shooting with gloves they were less than ideal as they were slippery. The factory rubber grips are excellent when wearing gloves.
I found recently while shooting off the bench (slow fire at small pieces of clay pigeons on the backstop) that there was a last smidgen of creep in the trigger pull before let off. So back to the search. Reading as to what others had done and what I could do to clean it up. I found that the hammer bushings for the Mag safety delete mods are the culprit. Trading out that hammer bushing for a MKll hammer bushings original larger diameter 7/16 vs 3/8 in the prior aids in likening it to the MKll series guns finer triggers. I bought one and found they were correct. Creep free 100%.
7884e0b6-119a-42ac-b38b-cddd1fcb2d32_zpsfm0lnljv.jpg
 
TandemKross KaneWolf slingshot mod.

Factory bolt stop has a plunger that keeps it pushed if the bolt is pulled back on a full mag. The TandemKross KaneWolf switches that to a spring loaded plunger that will push it down if the bolt is pulled back but will not interfere if a mag follower pushes it up.
 
TandemKross KaneWolf slingshot mod.

Factory bolt stop has a plunger that keeps it pushed if the bolt is pulled back on a full mag. The TandemKross KaneWolf switches that to a spring loaded plunger that will push it down if the bolt is pulled back but will not interfere if a mag follower pushes it up.
I did the Slingshot Gravity Mod. Simple and free, remove the spring and plunger from the bolt lock. It continues to work as long as there is still gravity.
 
Eboos, congratulations on your choice of a fine pistol. While the Ruger Mk IV pistols are getting a lot of attention at the moment, a MK III is a fine pistol that will provide a lifetime of service.

I do want to make on comment about the loaded chamber indicator. I do not like to see the loaded chamber indicator disabled in a way where it is still present but does not work. I am not a fan of the loaded chamber indicators, but if you want to remove it, I would recommend completely removing it and installing a filler. That way it is clear that the pistol does not have any loaded chamber indicator.

I will also second the recommendation from other posters to install an automatic bolt release. I prefer a spring driven bolt release rather than the "gravity mod."
 
I am probably going to make a LCI filler out of some aluminum that I have. It will give me something to do. I am also going to make some mag pouch brackets for my 1911 and Safariland 771 mag pouches (to add spacing, and adjust the height in relation to the belt) out of the same aluminum.
 
Good write up eboos. You went along the line of mods I did in a slightly different order. I had bought an "as new" Mklll LITE then added new bits as I acquired them after doing some deep reading and thorough you-tube sessions. Budget mattered but I wanted the best I could get for my buck. First mods were a Volquartsen Sear and a TK hammer bushing. These alone made the biggest difference in trigger performance. I added a compensator that I later set aside as I did not feel it improved performance nor accuracy. Then came the adjustable TK Victory Trigger... Awesome upgrade. Williams firesights helped my older eyes pick up my sight picture and reduced my groups dramatically over the factory ones, later following up wit a red dot. I bought some target grips that I love the feel of but I found that in the winter shooting with gloves they were less than ideal as they were slippery. The factory rubber grips are excellent when wearing gloves.
I found recently while shooting off the bench (slow fire at small pieces of clay pigeons on the backstop) that there was a last smidgen of creep in the trigger pull before let off. So back to the search. Reading as to what others had done and what I could do to clean it up. I found that the hammer bushings for the Mag safety delete mods are the culprit. Trading out that hammer bushing for a MKll hammer bushings original larger diameter 7/16 vs 3/8 in the prior aids in likening it to the MKll series guns finer triggers. I bought one and found they were correct. Creep free 100%.
7884e0b6-119a-42ac-b38b-cddd1fcb2d32_zpsfm0lnljv.jpg
Strawdog, I really like the grips great choice. You wouldn't want to share the link or details would you?
 
Strawdog, I really like the grips great choice. You wouldn't want to share the link or details would you?
Great quality grips... I got them here, it took a little over 10 days to get to my door... http://stores.ebay.com/costaricatreasurehouse/_i.html?_nkw=22/45&submit=Search&_sid=21408713
They make them for many different guns too. Click on the store and search by model or make of your gun.
Left and right hand target grips are available for the MK series and 22/45's.
 
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