Ruger Mark II question

[chrbla2000]

Hi All,

I have a Mark II Government Target and I want to put a red-dot optic of some sort on it. It is not drilled for scope mounts so my option is to drift out the rear sight and use that dovetail to put in some sort of mount. I tried doing that in the past, I drifted in a block, then mounted a small Picatinny rail to it, and then a Ultra Dot on the rail. Well, that setup completely blocked access to the takedown pin, so I had to re-zero every time I disassembled it for cleaning, not to mention the extra hassle of removing the optic and rail each time.

Looks like I can do something similar with a Vortex Venom or a Burris FastFire using this mount:
Results for burris fastfire mount mark ii - OpticsPlanet

My question is, do any of you know if that will block access to the takedown pin?

Thanks,

-chris

 

[Matt_SERE]

Jack Weigand makes some nice mounts. You are supposed to be able to reach the take down. If this isn't the correct one, he supposedly has one.

Good luck.

Scope Mount Ruger MKI MKII MKIII MKIV 22/45
No Drill and Tap

If you have an older Ruger MKI, MKII, MKIII, MKIV, 22/45 that's not drilled and tapped you can install this WEIG-A-TINNY® Scopemount without making any permanent alterations to your favorite pistol. Remove the rear sight, insert the threaded dovetail filler and install the mount with the screws provided. Accepts all Weaver style rings and accessories and most Picatinny rings and accessories.
5-1/4" long, silver or Black, matte anodized finish, weighs 2.5 ounces, comes with mounting hardware and screws.

Ruger 22/45 scope mount MKI MKII MKIII MKIV Weaver WEIG-A-TINNY®

 

[chrbla2000]

Jack Weigand makes some nice mounts. You are supposed to be able to reach the take down. If this isn't the correct one, he supposedly has one.

Good luck.



Ruger 22/45 scope mount MKI MKII MKIII MKIV Weaver WEIG-A-TINNY®

Yeah, I tried one of those exact mounts also, I found it creeps after 40 or so rounds down the tube no matter how tight I crank the pinch bolts. It started marring the finish so I removed it and buffed the scuffmarks off the stainless. Thanks though!

-chris

 

[chrbla2000]

Actually, I stand corrected, I tried what I described, and also what you posted. With that Weigand I couldn't get leverage on the pin.

 

[Matt_SERE]

The only thing I can think of is ask if you degreased the holes for the set screws? If I were to do it again I would buy a new kit and bring them to a local smith.

b: leverage on the pin. I know this was a concern for some. I know that lube and a leverage tool was used. I will try to find a reference thread for you , but later.

Best of luck.

Matt

 

[greencobra]

rethink altering the 6 7/8 gov't target pistol. if it's minty with box, papers and the target they were shipped with, it might be worth putting it away. not that of a rarity but hard to find now. these are creeping up in price with collectors. most rugers at the time these were put out (1980's) were not that expensive and people bought and abused them so a nice example is worth keeping that way. i have 2 still unfired in the boxes complete with my sales receipt and better yet, they are consecutively numbered. not a big deal now but ruger went to great pains back in the day to avoid sending consecutive numbered guns to distributors. just sayin'....

 

[chrbla2000]

>The only thing I can think of is ask if you degreased the holes for the set screws? If I were to do it again I would buy a new kit and bring them to a local smith.

I mistook your original post for a different solution I tried, one that looked similar at first glance but was very different for installation, it slid over the frame and was held on by pinch bolts. When I had the Weigand installed, it was solid, didn't move a bit, I just couldn't get at the takedown pin with enough force/leverage so had to remove it each time I did a full disassembly. I tried polishing the surfaces where the receiver meets the frame and using some emery cloth on the takedown pin, but no luck, still very tight, I was afraid to take it down too far.

Anyway, thanks for the responses, I'll likely pick up that kit I linked at some point and give it a try, then I can Karma out my old Mark II scope mounting accessories

-chris

 

[Matt_SERE]

Take a look at this. These make taking the MK's apart easier.

Speed Strip Kit

 

[chrbla2000]

Cool, thanks for the link!

 

[RDG]

Why not have the MKII drilled and tapped for the factory rail. That's what I did on my government target.

Any decent gunsmith can do it. Solves all your problems plus you can just remove the red dot and use the factory sights if need be.

 

[chrbla2000]

I probably should RDG, I just prefer making reversible changes to my firearms. I don't sell often, but when I do, I like being able to say that it can be put 100% back to stock.

 

[The Anchor]

i have the mount for a burris fast fire and i use it when plinking squirrels. no issue with takedown pin. slide the rear sight out, and this slides into the dovetail.

 

[chrbla2000]

i have the mount for a burris fast fire and i use it when plinking squirrels. no issue with takedown pin. slide the rear sight out, and this slides into the dovetail.

awesome, thanks!

-chris

 

[CC driver]

Aren't Mark III's already drilled and tapped from the factory? Perhaps it may be easier to add a Mark III or even a IV to your collection.

 

[S&WMan]

The later MKII Government models were drilled and tapped from the factory. Ruger will drill and tap the receiver for you. They will also send you a $30.00 shipping label to send it in and save you money.
Ruger Parts & Service