Ruger Customer service

Joined
Dec 29, 2013
Messages
1,233
Likes
927
Location
North East MA
Feedback: 24 / 0 / 0
I broke the safety lever on my LC9S when taking it apart. Completely my fault. SO I ordered a new one from shopruger.com.
apparently, I messed up my credit card information and the transaction was declined. I get an email with a phone number to call. The woman who answered asked for my order number, tells me my billing address was rejected. I am thinking they won't ship to Massachusetts. She asks me what's my address, when I tell her she says I mixed up my house number. Easy to fix. She says, it's under $10 I am going to cancel the transaction and send you one for free. It will be in the mail tomorrow.
That's some great customer service! I know it's A small money part, but I have ordered lots of small stuff from big companies and this is the first time I have been treated like this from customer service.
 
My SR22 magazine safety randomly failed years ago and they were awesome to deal with.
 
Companies like Ruger and Glock are famous for their excellent customer service. On the other hand, I'll never buy another Remington after dealing with their CS.
 
Ditto:. One of my students bought an SR-22 pistol on my recommendation. Turned out pistol failed consistently to lock back on empty with one of the magazines, though it functioned properly his other new magazine, or any of mine. I concluded that the square hole that accepts the mag catch was every so slightly too high on the bad mag. Since the fellow had made the purchase on my recommendation, I took it upon myself to email Ruger CS. They promptly agreed to send student a replacement magazine.

It is interesting that Ruger offers no explicit warranty on any of it's firearms. Yet by all reports it's CS outshines that of any other manufacturer.
 
Have always had excellent service from Ruger. Once a customer dropped his Predator rifle on the floor; it landed right on the trigger guard. I called Ruger CS, they said "Tell him this one is free, but he has to buy the next one." The new stock was delivered in two days.
 
It is interesting that Ruger offers no explicit warranty on any of it's firearms. Yet by all reports it's CS outshines that of any other manufacturer.
To wit:

WHY NO WARRANTY CARD HAS BEEN
PACKED WITH THIS NEW RUGER® FIREARM

The Magnuson-Moss Act (Public Law 93-637) does not require any​
seller or manufacturer of a consumer product to give a written​
warranty. It does provide that if a written warranty is given, it must be​
designated as “limited” or as “full” and sets minimum standards for a​
“full” warranty. Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc. has elected not to​
provide any written warranty, either “limited” or “full”, rather than to​
attempt to comply with the provisions of the Magnuson-Moss Act and​
the regulations issued thereunder. There are certain implied warranties​
under state law with respect to sales of consumer goods. As the extent​
and interpretation of these implied warranties varies from state to​
state, you should refer to your state statutes. Sturm, Ruger &​
Company wishes to assure its customers of its continued interest in​
providing service to owners of Ruger® firearms.​

Don't gloss over the last sentence.
 
I called Ruger around last August or September about my new 22/45 lite and they customer service rep told me to take it to a local gunsmith because they were so backlogged. I understand they were backed up and it was probably insanity around that time for them, but still, not the greatest CS experience.
 
I called Ruger around last August or September about my new 22/45 lite and they customer service rep told me to take it to a local gunsmith because they were so backlogged. I understand they were backed up and it was probably insanity around that time for them, but still, not the greatest CS experience.
It's all the new owners of used Mk III's who cant reassemble them after a field strip and cleaning.
 
It's all the new owners of used Mk III's who cant reassemble them after a field strip and cleaning.
Was actually a brand spanking new Mark IV so no finicky take down, and was inquiring about and abnormally loose rattle on the slide stop which i’d call a valid concern for a brand new firearm. It hasn’t caused me any trouble but maybe ill try the CS again since everything I have read says they’re great.
 
I have had nothing but great customer service from Ruger. Most recently I broke the fiber optic front sight on my Ruger American Rimfire (totally my fault) and could not find the replacement part listed on their website. I called and the customer rep asked for my address and said they would send me out a new one free of charge. Can’t beat that!
 
Weird, Ruger was pretty mediocre for me. My grips were defective from the factory. After the typical back and forth they then wanted the originals back and didn't provide adequate postage for the envelope they provided.
 
It's all the new owners of used Mk III's who cant reassemble them after a field strip and cleaning.
Was actually a brand spanking new Mark IV so no finicky take down, ...
The line forms to the rear:
Ruger can't work on your Mk IV
until they've reassembled all the Mk III's.

... was inquiring about and abnormally loose rattle on the slide stop which i’d call a valid concern for a brand new firearm. It hasn’t caused me any trouble ...
What is the normal amount of rattle?

The bolt stop pin on classic Ruger Mk II and Mk III pistols pivots freely
on a cross-pin that is fixed in the main spring housing by being peened slightly
on both ends.

R-MK-MSH-STNDRD-MK2-BL-2.jpg


(Classic Mk II main spring assembly shown because there's good contrast in the photo).

See the dimple in the face of the cross-pin in the upper left?

Here's an entire Mk II broken down into tidbits:

aAbyDfA.jpg


The parts in question are in the absolute upper RH corner.

I don't think the photographer should have driven
the bolt stop pin pivot pin out of the main spring assembly
even for a detail strip - you can only peen it back into place
so many times before something goes wrong.


In those guns the bolt stop pin wiggles a little when
the main spring assembly is removed from the frame.
I don't think it matters - the two transverse bolt stop pin holes
in the receiver are what keep the bolt stop pin located precisely.

The two jobs of the bolt stop pin I can see are:
  1. Give the recoil spring assembly something to push against.
  2. Keep the bolt from flying out of the receiver and hitting you in the face.
Some Mk II/Mk III owners might kill to get some wiggle room
around those transverse holes,
because when tolerances are tight, it's difficult to shove
the bolt stop pin into the receiver when reinserting
the main spring assembly into the frame.

Most of the force is probably the bolt stop pin pushing
the aft end of the recoil spring assembly out of the way.

But some people obsess about getting proper alignment so much,
that they stick the bolt stop pin in upside down first,
to make sure the receiver is aligned on the frame.[rolleyes]
2245_mark3_fsra02.jpg


I haven't stripped a Mk IV, and I the only photo I could find
of a Mk IV main spring housing is an exploded view:

M5Cb3k0.jpg


That is, the main spring housing fractured
at the bolt stop pin cross pin hole
like it was a freaking Liberty Ship. [shocked]

liberty-ship-failure.jpg


That's probably excessive rattle.

But if you are complaining that the bolt stop pin
wiggles around just a little, it might not be a defect.

I don't think it's a load bearing joint,
unlike the wrist pin holding a connecting rod into a piston.

phpml5SAC.png


But your mileage may vary.

... but maybe ill try the CS again since everything I have read says they’re great.
The average story I've read is that they fix/polish other stuff while it's in the shop.
I would think hard about whether there's anything else that could use improving
because why waste the opportunity if you send it in.
 
Last edited:
I sent in a P345 to Ruger about three weeks ago for repair. I had swapped out a guide rod spring and had to switch a firing pin spring along with it. I tried to put everything back together, and thought I was successful (even though accessing the firing pin required disabling a number of safeties all of which use tiny parts and tiny springs). Well, when I took it to the range the safety/decocker came right off the gun, and ultimately I decided to send it in to Ruger to be fixed, since I wasn't convinced I could fix it, and since there might have been an issue with one of those tiny parts.

The cost for the repair should have been $30 shipping, $85 for the service, and then possible additional costs for parts. As it turns out, Ruger paid for everything, including shipping, including a new extractor, firing pin block plunger and spring, and a new right safety lever. Plus they fixed the grip frame assembly, recoil spring, slide assembly and trigger bar.

I think they even re-blued part of the slide.

No cost. Sent back 48 hours after it was serviced in a nice box with a complimentary cleaning cloth.

Ruger earned a customer for life.
 
Only to Firearms I have sent in for service on warrantee were the Ruger SR 22 and a Ruger SR 9C both work flawlessly after and couldn’t say enough about the great customer service
 
i had a squib in my lcp, fired the next round like an idiot ( was distracted) and flowered the barrel, widened the slide, busted the frame yada yada yada, called to get parts and told them what the idot did, they asked to send it in, and they sent me a new one. another time i had an issue with a Mk2, they couldn't fix it ( older gun), offered me a below wholesale price on a MK4, if they could keep/destroy the gun. 2 for 2, and now i have about 9 of their products.
 
The line forms to the rear:
Ruger can't work on your Mk IV
until they've reassembled all the Mk III's.


What is the normal amount of rattle?

The bolt stop pin on classic Ruger Mk II and Mk III pistols pivots freely
on a cross-pin that is fixed in the main spring housing by being peened slightly
on both ends.

R-MK-MSH-STNDRD-MK2-BL-2.jpg


(Classic Mk II main spring assembly shown because there's good contrast in the photo).

See the dimple in the face of the cross-pin in the upper left?

Here's an entire Mk II broken down into tidbits:

aAbyDfA.jpg


The parts in question are in the absolute upper RH corner.

I don't think the photographer should have driven
the bolt stop pin pivot pin out of the main spring assembly
even for a detail strip - you can only peen it back into place
so many times before something goes wrong.


In those guns the bolt stop pin wiggles a little when
the main spring assembly is removed from the frame.
I don't think it matters - the two transverse bolt stop pin holes
in the receiver are what keep the bolt stop pin located precisely.

The two jobs of the bolt stop pin I can see are:
  1. Give the recoil spring assembly something to push against.
  2. Keep the bolt from flying out of the receiver and hitting you in the face.
Some Mk II/Mk III owners might kill to get some wiggle room
around those transverse holes,
because when tolerances are tight, it's difficult to shove
the bolt stop pin into the receiver when reinserting
the main spring assembly into the frame.

Most of the force is probably the bolt stop pin pushing
the aft end of the recoil spring assembly out of the way.

But some people obsess about getting proper alignment so much,
that they stick the bolt stop pin in upside down first,
to make sure the receiver is aligned on the frame.[rolleyes]
2245_mark3_fsra02.jpg


I haven't stripped a Mk IV, and I the only photo I could find
of a Mk IV main spring housing is an exploded view:

M5Cb3k0.jpg


That is, the main spring housing fractured
at the bolt stop pin cross pin hole
like it was a freaking Liberty Ship. [shocked]

liberty-ship-failure.jpg


That's probably excessive rattle.

But if you are complaining that the bolt stop pin
wiggles around just a little, it might not be a defect.

I don't think it's a load bearing joint,
unlike the wrist pin holding a connecting rod into a piston.

phpml5SAC.png


But your mileage may vary.


The average story I've read is that they fix/polish other stuff while it's in the shop.
I would think hard about whether there's anything else that could use improving
because why waste the opportunity if you send it in.
Great information, thanks!
 
Was actually a brand spanking new Mark IV....
a first for me hearing this about a ruger cs contact going south. a brand new gun and they say bring it to an off site gunsmith? not saying it didn't happen but jeezus. in light of all the lawsuits ruger has fought i can't believe they'd suggest letting someone else open and repair a brand new firearm. i hope they offered to reimburse the cost of the repair.
 
Companies like Ruger and Glock are famous for their excellent customer service. On the other hand, I'll never buy another Remington after dealing with their CS.
Ruger is great. never had any poblems with my Glocks. ..............I can add that S&W has always sent me all the parts I needed and for free. :D
 
a first for me hearing this about a ruger cs contact going south. a brand new gun and they say bring it to an off site gunsmith? not saying it didn't happen but jeezus. in light of all the lawsuits ruger has fought i can't believe they'd suggest letting someone else open and repair a brand new firearm. i hope they offered to reimburse the cost of the repair.
Exactly how it went unfortunately and I always try to give the benefit of the doubt. The gun has been great and I do not recall them offering to reimburse the repair but I didn’t ask; I just said “ok thanks bye” because I was a bit perplexed. Hopefully it was just a one off incident because I know Ruger is highly regarded for the CS.
 
Once with a SR1911 that was giving me trouble, I called customer service. The person I spoke to told me a certain number of failures was acceptable. I immediately wrote an email to customer service and was called back the next day saying NOPE, that's not true, send us your gun. They fixed it.
 
Great information, thanks!
De nada. Every once in a while I get a fleeting twinge of guilt about...
726.gif

...and try to post something useful.

Think for yourself and question authority about the stop pin wiggle -
I don't want some issue beyond my understanding
to cause your pistol to grenade in your hands.

Here's a Rimfire Central subforum dedicated to the Mk IV.
You could do worse than bookmark it.
I don't browse it as a matter of course, but I bet if you have a specific issue,
you could search for keywords and might find a Very Definitive answer.

Here's Bullseye's GunTalk Online.
The forums seem to have become dormant,
which may help explain why there's no Mk IV strip/reassembly procedures.

But anyone who owns a Mk II or Mk III (vanilla or 22/45)
owes it to themselves to study the field/detail strip/reassembly photos.
They are clear, crisp, and on-point - no better illustration of every step of cleaning.
To the degree that a Mk IV shares some innards with a Mk III,
one might do worse than to study those photos.
 
Back
Top Bottom