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Ruger 10/22 rifle (not carbine). How do you handle cheek weld with a scope that is higher than iron sights?

rogersmithiii

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I bought a rifle-length, Ruger 10/22, and mounted a rimfire, Nikon scope. This weekend, I took the Appleseed class (highly recommended BTW). When welding my cheek to the stock, I found that I had huge problems getting full vision through my scope, especially when seated. The instructor told me that my stock was designed to line my cheek up with the iron sights that were mounted much lower than the scope. With my present setup, when I properly did the cheek weld, the stock would not line my eye up with the scope. Further, I had to intensely press my cheek to the stock to get my eye horizontally in line with the scope to see properly. This was agony on my neck, and made it impossible to qual (201 compared to 221 to pass).

The instructor suggested some pads / spacers on top of my wooden stock, or a whole new monti carlo kind of stock that would raise my eye to the scope.

Does this mean that I need something adjustable like the ones on a Springfield Armory National Match M1A? Most of the Ruger stocks don't seem to be adjustable.

Or is my scope mounted wrong in some way?
I think the most important result of taking training is finding out where your equipment is lacking, and needs adjustment.

The Appleseed training, which occurs at places around every state is highly worthwhile. $75 for two, nine-hour days. They intensively teach you to shoot a rifle (most were .22s) and reliably hit bulls eyes at distance. Most other training runs $250 or more a day.

Thanks
 
The riser wouldn’t need to be adjustable. Just get it set to the height for your scope and leave it be. Aftermarket options are usually adjustable just because each buyer is going to want to have a different height.

It can be done extremely cheaply with scrap materials and tape: How to Make an Improvised Cheek Rest and Improve Your Accuracy


Or a cheap stick on it riser: Amazon product ASIN B003EUBO80View: https://www.amazon.com/ACCU-RISER-MOLDED-BLACK-CHEEK-REST/dp/B003EUBO80


…you can spend money on a new stock or even get your current stock customized by cutting out the cheek section and adding adjustable threaded sections for elevation.



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Appleseeds are a good time. I found the instructors very knowledgeable and adept at picking up flaws in your shooting style. I shot rifleman at my first and broke 240 for distinguished at my second.

My first Appleseed I raised my comb using things I had in my truck. A sponge, and ace bandage and duct tape. (If a stupid idea works it’s no longer stupid)

Using what I had as a reference point for the height increase I needed I purchased a leather lace on check piece. It was a touch low so I shimmed it with a small layer of rubber material.

You can buy a new stock. Not needed though.

Things to do first.

1. Look at scope mounting. I usually use lowest scope mounting that clears front bell of scope. If there is a lot of space between front of scope and barrel consider lower ring height. But rings are usually low medium or high so a course adjustment.

2. Adjust height of check rest. Can be done by several means. They sell both lace on or velcro on check risers. On one rifle I used a precut and formed adhesive back neoprene pad. These essentially adjusts the stock to your face shape and size and it may be difficult for someone else to use.

3. Add an adjustable check piece. The simplest are a piece of shaped Kydex with two parallel slots in them. You need to drill two holes through your stock for bolts but then you can raise of lower rest as needed. I have one on a varmint barrel rem 700 in .223 that is loaner rifle. Easy to adjust. It was 50 to 60 bucks including infused with my choice of camo pattern and with Allen head screw sets to replace adjustment knobs

Just a few thoughts
 
Or is my scope mounted wrong in some way?
if you look at the options for scope rings - you will see they they typically come in low, medium and high profile heights.
low profile rings with some 20moa rails may not be enough for some scopes to fit, so, you need to be careful about that - but i think that nikon will fit fine.
if with low rings you still under the optical axis of scope at cheek weld - add what add-on wrap the pappyM3 posted from amazon, it will work just fine.

the do not waste money on the replacement stock. if you want to waste money anyway - you can get a proper chassis like XLR or MPA, and mount 10/22 on it. then unmount 10/22 from it, and mount something else that is more precise into same chassis. but i would simply do a stock wrap with proper rings and let it be.
 
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Appleseeds are a good time. I found the instructors very knowledgeable and adept at picking up flaws in your shooting style. I shot rifleman at my first and broke 240 for distinguished at my second.

My first Appleseed I raised my comb using things I had in my truck. A sponge, and ace bandage and duct tape. (If a stupid idea works it’s no longer stupid)

Using what I had as a reference point for the height increase I needed I purchased a leather lace on check piece. It was a touch low so I shimmed it with a small layer of rubber material.

You can buy a new stock. Not needed though.

Things to do first.

1. Look at scope mounting. I usually use lowest scope mounting that clears front bell of scope. If there is a lot of space between front of scope and barrel consider lower ring height. But rings are usually low medium or high so a course adjustment.

2. Adjust height of check rest. Can be done by several means. They sell both lace on or velcro on check risers. On one rifle I used a precut and formed adhesive back neoprene pad. These essentially adjusts the stock to your face shape and size and it may be difficult for someone else to use.

3. Add an adjustable check piece. The simplest are a piece of shaped Kydex with two parallel slots in them. You need to drill two holes through your stock for bolts but then you can raise of lower rest as needed. I have one on a varmint barrel rem 700 in .223 that is loaner rifle. Easy to adjust. It was 50 to 60 bucks including infused with my choice of camo pattern and with Allen head screw sets to replace adjustment knobs

Just a few thoughts
There is 1/2 an inch between the bottom of the scope and the barrel. No clue what rings I bought as there are no markings on them.
 
The riser wouldn’t need to be adjustable. Just get it set to the height for your scope and leave it be. Aftermarket options are usually adjustable just because each buyer is going to want to have a different height.

It can be done extremely cheaply with scrap materials and tape: How to Make an Improvised Cheek Rest and Improve Your Accuracy


Or a cheap stick on it riser: Amazon product ASIN B003EUBO80View: https://www.amazon.com/ACCU-RISER-MOLDED-BLACK-CHEEK-REST/dp/B003EUBO80


…you can spend money on a new stock or even get your current stock customized by cutting out the cheek section and adding adjustable threaded sections for elevation.



hqdefault.jpg


Excellent article. Thanks so much for sharing.
 
I bought a rifle-length, Ruger 10/22, and mounted a rimfire, Nikon scope. This weekend, I took the Appleseed class (highly recommended BTW). When welding my cheek to the stock, I found that I had huge problems getting full vision through my scope, especially when seated. The instructor told me that my stock was designed to line my cheek up with the iron sights that were mounted much lower than the scope. With my present setup, when I properly did the cheek weld, the stock would not line my eye up with the scope. Further, I had to intensely press my cheek to the stock to get my eye horizontally in line with the scope to see properly. This was agony on my neck, and made it impossible to qual (201 compared to 221 to pass).

The instructor suggested some pads / spacers on top of my wooden stock, or a whole new monti carlo kind of stock that would raise my eye to the scope.

Does this mean that I need something adjustable like the ones on a Springfield Armory National Match M1A? Most of the Ruger stocks don't seem to be adjustable.

Or is my scope mounted wrong in some way?
I think the most important result of taking training is finding out where your equipment is lacking, and needs adjustment.

The Appleseed training, which occurs at places around every state is highly worthwhile. $75 for two, nine-hour days. They intensively teach you to shoot a rifle (most were .22s) and reliably hit bulls eyes at distance. Most other training runs $250 or more a day.

Thanks
the ruger 10/22 to big for kids to small for adults.
Depending on the stock there are plenty of options
You can add adjustable comb. or buy a stock with adjustable comb
 
Which stock do you currently have, pictures would be helpful.

Depending on your current stock a pool noodle and some vet wrap is all you need. Or you can grab an aftermarket cheek riser, like the Victory Company Universal Cheek Riser.

I highly recommend grabbing lower scope rings. I feel the lower scope rings and a low cheek riser feel better on the neck. Than a higher riser.

If you want to swap the stock. Both the Titan22 and the Magpul Hunter X-22 are excellent low cost stocks. I use both. Both adjustable for Length of Pull and cheek weld. But still recommend lower scope rings.

Here is a video, very simple way to find out what height scope rings to select for your scope.
Here

Just as important, make sure to get a USGI cotton sling. I've tried other slings, but the GI sling, in my opinion, is the way to go. Nylon straps don't hold well at all. Slide on the arm easier, specially with sweat.

Appleseeds are great fun. Were you at the Harvard event on the 2nd and 3rd?
 
Cheek weld is about consistency. The best consistency is having zero variable contact with the stock at all.

That said, I like my scopes low. But, I've had friends with see-through riser mounts on their thutty-thutties with a 3-9X Bushnell, who could hit the vital works of a deer at 175 yards, standing unsupported, every time.

Practice for what you do.
 
Cheek weld is about consistency. The best consistency is having zero variable contact with the stock at all.

That said, I like my scopes low. But, I've had friends with see-through riser mounts on their thutty-thutties with a 3-9X Bushnell, who could hit the vital works of a deer at 175 yards, standing unsupported, every time.

Practice for what you do.
Well said. Optics do not need to be mounted as low as possible. Its about achieving consistiency with your specific rig. Heres a linked article on a very unconventional setup and precise shooting results.

 
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I bought a rifle-length, Ruger 10/22, and mounted a rimfire, Nikon scope. This weekend, I took the Appleseed class (highly recommended BTW). When welding my cheek to the stock, I found that I had huge problems getting full vision through my scope, especially when seated. The instructor told me that my stock was designed to line my cheek up with the iron sights that were mounted much lower than the scope. With my present setup, when I properly did the cheek weld, the stock would not line my eye up with the scope. Further, I had to intensely press my cheek to the stock to get my eye horizontally in line with the scope to see properly. This was agony on my neck, and made it impossible to qual (201 compared to 221 to pass).

The instructor suggested some pads / spacers on top of my wooden stock, or a whole new monti carlo kind of stock that would raise my eye to the scope.

Does this mean that I need something adjustable like the ones on a Springfield Armory National Match M1A? Most of the Ruger stocks don't seem to be adjustable.

Or is my scope mounted wrong in some way?
I think the most important result of taking training is finding out where your equipment is lacking, and needs adjustment.

The Appleseed training, which occurs at places around every state is highly worthwhile. $75 for two, nine-hour days. They intensively teach you to shoot a rifle (most were .22s) and reliably hit bulls eyes at distance. Most other training runs $250 or more a day.

Thanks
Also consider each position will change where your eye/cheek end up.
So you need to find that happy medium.
My dads “hunting” rifles where set up 90% for that off hand standing “snap shot”
Go prone with that set up and your going to be closer to that eyebell

I have Installed these Graco 870 kits on may rifles. I suffer from “low cheek” weld even with Iron sights! If I could use one of these kits on a M1 Garand in the matches I would!
Heres my favorite pest control rig.
 

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Also consider each position will change where your eye/cheek end up.
So you need to find that happy medium.
My dads “hunting” rifles where set up 90% for that off hand standing “snap shot”
Go prone with that set up and your going to be closer to that eyebell
realistically - the only way to setup a scope on a gun with a non-adjustable stock is to set it for prone, accepting the fact that on a bench or standing up you would need to move head a bit more forward than it may be comfortable.
or - have with you a stock padding you can put on a gun before going prone - something like that, to give an inch or so more LOP distance so you eye will be in the eyebox of the scope laying down - then you can setup scope for a bench shooting - that would be less annoying for standing upright aiming.
Amazon product ASIN B07PRG7SGTView: https://www.amazon.com/Zsling-Protector-Shooting-Extension-Accessories/dp/B07PRG7SGT
 
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