Revolvers for IDPA SSR

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Mike is a super awesome guy, but unfortunately he is no longer doing the speedloader holders. Just figured I'd let you guys know. I shoot with him regularly at Bridgeport.
 

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Mike is a super awesome guy, but unfortunately he is no longer doing the speedloader holders. Just figured I'd let you guys know. I shoot with him regularly at Bridgeport.
Pity,[crying]
Glad I have mine for K & L frame, heheheh[laugh2]
 
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Mike is a super awesome guy, but unfortunately he is no longer doing the speedloader holders. Just figured I'd let you guys know. I shoot with him regularly at Bridgeport.
Unfortunately true, too many a**h***s complaining about stupid little shit made him stop making them. Luckily I got mine too.
 
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Hey Mike those came out real nice. Did you plug that hole? Honestly that made a HUGE difference.
Dave, I FINALLY took your advice and it makes a HUGE difference. I used Bill T's approach. Go to the hardware store and find some 3/16" x 0.750" stainless steel dowel pins. They were 35 cents each at my local ACE Hardware. They are a tight fit. If you use a punch you get gently tap them flush. You can let them stick out a little bit if you want them to release earlier.

Pins:


Pin in a Comp-III


Closeup of the pin
 
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Damn Mike- you one upped me! I might replace my rivets with them! Did you cut them down? If you are near the hardware store and get more let me know! I've never seen metal dowels.
 
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Dave I wish I could claim credit: Thorpe found them and has been using them for a while. I got them at the local ACE hardware. I thought I was going to have to trim them but I measured the depth of the hole and it was 0.75". They go in easy the first half inch or so then you have to get out the puch. I went a little overboard with the punch tapping one in and it is slightly below flush.

I've got two extra and there may be a couple more in the drawer at the Westford ACE (unless they restocked them). I'm going to be in NY for the ICORE match this weekend but I'll throw them in my bag and give you them at the next MWT match.
 
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Thanks Mike- I'll see if my local stores have them too. The rivets work good... but they've falled off before. Great mod though huh? Glad you did it!

Dave I wish I could claim credit: Thorpe found them and has been using them for a while. I got them at the local ACE hardware. I thought I was going to have to trim them but I measured the depth of the hole and it was 0.75". They go in easy the first half inch or so then you have to get out the puch. I went a little overboard with the punch tapping one in and it is slightly below flush.

I've got two extra and there may be a couple more in the drawer at the Westford ACE (unless they restocked them). I'm going to be in NY for the ICORE match this weekend but I'll throw them in my bag and give you them at the next MWT match.
 
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Been away for a while.

Mike did great work.

I did ones on my own with a belt sander that work just as well. If you research it, you'll find that's how Roger Davis ("Bubber" from OK) started the whole thing.

The purpose of the rivet in the loader engagement surface is 2 fold: 1) to give a positive, stable engagement surface and 2) to center the ejector rod on the loader body when it discharges. You can tune the engagement point with washers under the rivet if you so desire. A flat, hard slippery surface only gets 1). The absence of 2) can become quite ugly quite quickly.

K frames are lighter, have a shorter lock time, lower bore axis, much better cylinder hole/frame ratio, and lower yoke lever arm (important if your yoke screw tends to over ride your yoke barrel and spontaneously disassemble now and again) than any L or N frame. At 105000 PF (or even 125000 PF), the extra L-frame weight is a liability, not an asset.

K-frames also require less energy to cycle the action than Ls or Ns. The L-frame 6 shot 38 cylinder is the heaviest steel cylinder ever put into a centerfire K, L or N frame S&W revolver save the 6-shot Model 27 and 28s. If you are watching your sights carefully and cycling a 6 shot L-frame at a reasonable rate, you'll actually see the gun torque to the left when the cylinder notch engages the stop.

All things equal when shooting 105000 PF 38 Specials, you'll wear an L frame action out before a K frame action because of this.

Craig
 
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I've got very limited experience with the pin mod. The main reason I did is prevent the loader from getting hung up on the interlock pin (had to look that one up). I was hesitant to do it because I was running a shorter OAL length and didn't want it to engage earlier. We'll see how it runs on Sunday[wink].
 
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I couldn't find the damn pins... but I found a hex socket head screw that would work good I think... but the rivets are on so good I couldn't get them off!
 
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