Removing stuck flash hider

chindogg

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I am trying to remove a flash hider from an upper. I have the upper vice, heated it with a torch for a while and I cannot remove the flash hider for the lide of me. Anyone had this experience before and what did you do? The upper vice comes out of my bench vice when I apply enough pressure so my strength is not the issue. Any advice?
 
I am trying to remove a flash hider from an upper. I have the upper vice, heated it with a torch for a while and I cannot remove the flash hider for the lide of me. Anyone had this experience before and what did you do? The upper vice comes out of my bench vice when I apply enough pressure so my strength is not the issue. Any advice?
Was it soldered or pinned?
 
How hot did the torch get it, Propane or MAPP? Ironically the difference between the two when soldering pipes is huge so you never know. I have a Oxy-acetylene torch at work if you can't get it, worse case we can melt it off lol.
 
It was a butane cooking torch. I understand that it doesn’t run as hot but I figured I could just keep it on longer to make up for the heat differential. Should I just keep the torch on for several minutes instead of one or two?
 

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No clue if it gets hot enough for loctite but I know there's a huge difference between propane and MAPP when soldering copper pipes so maybe it's just not hot enough. Leaving it on longer doesn't change the heat applied temperature wise. 500* is 500* wether it's 10 mins or 20.

All my AR barrels have been RH thread
 
I don't care if it is intact, I just don't want to mess the threads up.

Cutoff disc and a dremel. Or a cutoff disc and an angle grinder (if you do it cautiously).

Split it length wise on either side - from barrel to muzzle. Make light cuts until you see the threads (will look like black dots all in a row). The female threads are deeper than the male ones; you won't damage the male threads on the barrel. When it's split on both sides, you can use a flatbar to pry/split the device, leaving the barrel intact. If it's pinned, this will typically allow you to easily remove the side with the pin - it might take a few taps with a hammer.
 
Two things

if you can pull the fixture out of your vise , you need a better vise

trying to remove a stubborn muzzle devise with a upper vise block is inviting disaster , the correct fixture can make all the difference and possibly keep you from destroying your upper
 
Two things

if you can pull the fixture out of your vise , you need a better vise

trying to remove a stubborn muzzle devise with a upper bench block is inviting disaster , the correct fixture can make all the difference and possibly keep you from destroying your upper

I think I should just bring it to a gunsmith and pay a few bucks to have it done.
 
My vise setup sucks. The workbench is cheap and not secured to the floor.

I've removed a flash hider by hitting the wrench with a hammer. That bit of quick shock has worked for me. YMMV.

ETA: I use a Reaction Rod, not an upper block.
 
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If he’s using a upper vise block he’s transferring all his torque through the length of the barrel and on to the receiver , the same theory as torque limiting extensions

if it was pinned you’d be able to see it

depending on the brand of upper it could have rockset on it
 
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