removing muzzle brake

[blinky]

So I just got a new ares armor f-in A comp and I'm not exactly sure how to remove the muzzle brake currently on there.

I think it's a 2 piece if there is such a thing. I had it done by a smith last time it had to come off...it's not pinned, it's not welded, it might have locktite on it. I hit it with a power stripper for 10 minutes and tried to unscrew it but nothing...
Are they generally reverse threaded? I would sent it to a smith but I want to use it when I go shooting with the guys friday morning..

Thanks.

Pic of current brake attached

 

[Sweeney]

It could be Loctite or silver soldered. Heat it with a propane torch to defeat the Loctite (if present) then try to remove it.

 

[JCV]

If it's loc-tite, heat that bad boy

 

[blinky]

Damn, I'm gonna have to go steal my torch back.

 

[JCV]

From Loctite's site:

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

 

[blinky]

From Loctite's site:

Perfect. Thanks. I'll just grab a torch from work tomorrow.

anyone have any idea if it's a 2 piece brake?

 

[JCV]

What does the other side of the brake look like? Could it be this?
https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=663

 

[blinky]

nope it's a pretty basic. I actually went back to my emails and it looks like the smith said it is in fact a 2 piece. I'm going to call in the morning to confirm. It looks like the quick discharge one on brownells.

 

[aznbigdawg]

Just curious, what if it is silver soldered and not Loctite. How would the muzzle break be removed? Same method as for the Loctite, heat?
Sorry, the engineer and nerd in me was just wondering.

 

[Evadd]

From what I read, it appears the melting point for silver solder is between 430 and 950 degrees. The temp depends on the makeup of the solder. Big range.

 

[blinky]

I know it's much hotter. Luckily when I sent this gun out I knew I was putting a new comp on eventually so I made sure it was just loctited

 

[LoginName]

Left handed thread is a possibility... no way it's Loctite.

Even the red stuff breaks free with low to moderate heat.

If no other solution is found, I'd just contact the vendor and ask how it's attached.

From what I read, it appears the melting point for silver solder is between 430 and 950 degrees. The temp depends on the makeup of the solder. Big range.

Depends on the silver content.

Under the old ATF regs, it was 1,100 degrees

 

[LittleCalm]

Right, under the ATF rules for SS it would be 1100, which is cherry red but not bright red. Just heat up with an oxy-map torch and spin off. I would use lots of jeweler's mud and stick a dowel in the barrel. Then while hot brush the threads. From there, allow to cool and decide what method you will use to put the new brake on.

 

[atilla]

a miculek like that is two pieces IIRC. i actually could torque the one off my rifle with a screwdriver through the baffles there in the brake. then just unscrew the nut. this is all provided you live in a free state/possess a pre-ban rifle, etc.

 

[LoginName]

Right, under the ATF rules for SS it would be 1100, which is cherry red but not bright red. Just heat up with an oxy-map torch and spin off. I would use lots of jeweler's mud and stick a dowel in the barrel. Then while hot brush the threads. From there, allow to cool and decide what method you will use to put the new brake on.

"Jewlers mud"... is that the same thing as this stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/HOT-STOP-PASTE-16-oz/dp/B008S844AS

 

[stinx]

what kind of upper is it?

 

[LittleCalm]

"Jewlers mud"... is that the same thing as this stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/HOT-STOP-PASTE.../dp/B008S844AS

yup. it literally is like mud. cake it on generously all around the barrel for about 6 inches from where the brake meets the barrel. it dries as it absorbs heat. a stainless barrel will discolor a little near the brake but can be easily cleaned with WD40 and scotchbright pad. note that i have no idea how 1100 degrees heat will may affect a coating like cerakote.

 

[jasons]

I had one like that on a used upper that I bought. It screwed right off. If you're having trouble removing it it's probably soldered on. For the children.

I've never seen a reverse-threaded muzzle device.

 

[P-14]

Make sure it isn't pinned too. Just sayin'

 

[LoginName]

I had one like that on a used upper that I bought. It screwed right off. If you're having trouble removing it it's probably soldered on. For the children.

I've never seen a reverse-threaded muzzle device.

Most FAL's will have left hand threads (I don't recall if that's for metric, inch or both).

 

[blinky]

so grabbed a torch from work today, came home, hit the sucker with some heat and it worked. Used a wrench on the lock nut and a screwdriver through the brake like atilla said.
had to heat it up some more to clean the gunk out of the threads and let it cool before putting on the new brake. cant wait to hit the range in the morning,

 

[LittleCalm]

Cool. If you are in MA, you need to use 1100 degree silver solder if you soldered the new one on. Otherwise, need to blind pin and weld.