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Reloading
- Thread starter TonyD
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Tony,
Yes to all of the above. Although I haven't reloaded pistol in over 20 years, I have all the equipment and supplies (except jacketed bullets). I plan on getting back into reloading with my new Dillon presses, as soon as I run out of .40 & .45 that I had bought by the case a few years ago.
Yes to all of the above. Although I haven't reloaded pistol in over 20 years, I have all the equipment and supplies (except jacketed bullets). I plan on getting back into reloading with my new Dillon presses, as soon as I run out of .40 & .45 that I had bought by the case a few years ago.
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Tony,
When I came to the realization that I'd have to lube rifle cases, I said no way! I remember the mess back in the 1970s when I first started out and had to lube pistol cases. I know it is better today, but still I want nothing to do with lubing and cleaning after reloading.
I've only done pistol and might consider .30Carbine, as I think straight wall rifle cases do not need lube if you use carbide dies.
I haven't shot competitively since ~1978 and that was strictly pistol team. Most .223 rounds get sent down my pre-ban CAR-15 flat-top with Aimpoint. Don't recall the last time I fired my Bushy stock 20" rifle. I've got a boatload of PMC, Wolf and S&B .223, none of which is suitable for any serious target shooting.
For the past year I've been concentrating on defensive handgun techniques and practice . . . job related since as a Constable, I'm out there on my own, no backup and don't know how someone may react to being served legal papers or being taken under arrest on a warrant.
When I came to the realization that I'd have to lube rifle cases, I said no way! I remember the mess back in the 1970s when I first started out and had to lube pistol cases. I know it is better today, but still I want nothing to do with lubing and cleaning after reloading.
I've only done pistol and might consider .30Carbine, as I think straight wall rifle cases do not need lube if you use carbide dies.
I haven't shot competitively since ~1978 and that was strictly pistol team. Most .223 rounds get sent down my pre-ban CAR-15 flat-top with Aimpoint. Don't recall the last time I fired my Bushy stock 20" rifle. I've got a boatload of PMC, Wolf and S&B .223, none of which is suitable for any serious target shooting.
For the past year I've been concentrating on defensive handgun techniques and practice . . . job related since as a Constable, I'm out there on my own, no backup and don't know how someone may react to being served legal papers or being taken under arrest on a warrant.
Wildweasel
NES Member
Frankly with modren tumblers the amount of Lube on a case is minimal. (for .223/5.56) I have worked up some loads for my last rifle that kicked the snot out of the black hills stuff I had purchased . Took very little time and with some QC alot better groups. (from 1.5" at 100 to 3/4") and once I got the bore broken in it tightened up a little more as long as I did my part. Then I had back surgury and haven't done it in 3 years. 
I reloaded all the time when I was a kid both 9mm for my Uzi back when I had it and .357 and .38.
I also did .243 when I was in highschool if I wanted to shoot.
The big thing is to not get distracted at all. That is when the problems start. (Squibs/ double loads.)
I have a holder for the charged rounds that they sit in before putting the Bullet in, and I go over it very carefully with a flashlight to make sure all the charges look right. then I will take 1 out of 10 and confirm the powder measurement.
Even a basic Lee set will get you going for rifle cheap and you will have much better ammo for the most part as long as you take the time to set it up for your rifle.
I reloaded all the time when I was a kid both 9mm for my Uzi back when I had it and .357 and .38.
I also did .243 when I was in highschool if I wanted to shoot.
The big thing is to not get distracted at all. That is when the problems start. (Squibs/ double loads.)
I have a holder for the charged rounds that they sit in before putting the Bullet in, and I go over it very carefully with a flashlight to make sure all the charges look right. then I will take 1 out of 10 and confirm the powder measurement.
Even a basic Lee set will get you going for rifle cheap and you will have much better ammo for the most part as long as you take the time to set it up for your rifle.
Hubby and I reload for the pistols. .38, .357, 9mm and .40. Although I bought him a .303 last year (good deal, only paid $50 for it and it's a sweet little rifle) and he wants to start reloading that. It's definately cheaper than buying ammo all the time. We have a Lee press. He starts by punching out the old primers, then hands them to me. I put the new primer in with the hand thingie, then he opens the case and puts the powder in. I stick the bullet in the top and he finishes it. Happiness is reloading with your honey. I know, I know...it's sappy. [lol]
I know, I know...it's sappy. [lol]
Wildweasel
NES Member
Sure I usally decap the primers and then tumble the brass, then clean the primer Hole/any media out of the case. I then set up one press for the resizing You have to roll the case in lube and then resize(lightly), I usally wipe it off and set it aside After sizing. then You need to measure case lenght and trim if needed.
(usally once through your match gun they don't stretch to much) I usally sort them to size.
Then prime and set aside. Make sure the primers seat in flush and do not protrude! With a semi this is VERY important.
(I have a wooden 2X8 with a bunch of holes drilled in it for the cases. So they sit upright in it) Once you have the powder charge of the load set then you can start charging them.
I usally do it back into my holder and don't add the bullet now.
When done with the rack, I take samples and measure the charge to make sure they are within a few grains.
(with the cheap Lee charger I have it actally is very good for the money) I then put the powder back in the case. I also check ALL the charged brass to make sure there are no doublecharges/nocharges with a flashlight.
(QC is the word of the Day!)
Then I will set my other press, (single stage they are cheap so I can have them set and don't have to dick with them) for the Bullet/chrimp operation. Setting the overall lenght for the round is important, too long and will not chamber.feed, too short and it will degrade accuracy and possible bring pressure up too High.
Then I feed the bullets in and have it set with a light crimp, (not a mil crimp as I found it wasn't needed with
Full resizing) A final inspection and then I am done.
Off the top of my head that is it. For rifle ammo I like to use a single stage mostly for Quality control.
You can really crank them out with a dillion but You lose the Mark 1 eyeball for the powder charge inspection etc.
(usally once through your match gun they don't stretch to much) I usally sort them to size.
Then prime and set aside. Make sure the primers seat in flush and do not protrude! With a semi this is VERY important.
(I have a wooden 2X8 with a bunch of holes drilled in it for the cases. So they sit upright in it) Once you have the powder charge of the load set then you can start charging them.
I usally do it back into my holder and don't add the bullet now.
When done with the rack, I take samples and measure the charge to make sure they are within a few grains.
(with the cheap Lee charger I have it actally is very good for the money) I then put the powder back in the case. I also check ALL the charged brass to make sure there are no doublecharges/nocharges with a flashlight.
(QC is the word of the Day!)
Then I will set my other press, (single stage they are cheap so I can have them set and don't have to dick with them) for the Bullet/chrimp operation. Setting the overall lenght for the round is important, too long and will not chamber.feed, too short and it will degrade accuracy and possible bring pressure up too High.
Then I feed the bullets in and have it set with a light crimp, (not a mil crimp as I found it wasn't needed with
Full resizing) A final inspection and then I am done.
Off the top of my head that is it. For rifle ammo I like to use a single stage mostly for Quality control.
You can really crank them out with a dillion but You lose the Mark 1 eyeball for the powder charge inspection etc.
Might have to get back into it...depending if there's any restrictions on shipping bulk ammo to CT. I currently load for the CZ52 pistol and will be picking up dies for the 7.5 mm (MAS 49/56). Can't really find any cheap 7.5 ammo (except corrosive).
centermass181
NES Member
i know ive been out of the loop for a week now, but Id love a reloading forum.
Oh lookie there....
Oh lookie there....
TonyD
One Shot One Maggie's Drawers
Thanks Glenn. This is my first time reloading in about 20 years and my first ever loading match rounds. Here's the process I'm in the middle of with 300 pieces of brass:
Decap with decapper and base
Ream all pockets with Hornady primer pocket reamer (even non-crimped brass) to ensure all pockets are beveled and cut exactly the same down to the flash hole.
First cleaning of all brass. I don't have a tumbler so I'm cleaning with vinegar and salt, rinse throughly.
Clean and uniform flash hole with small screwdriver. (fits flash hole and twist to clean and uniform) remove any remaining carbon in primer pocket.
Full length resize with the die 1/4 turn past contact with the shell plate.
Neck size (to hopefully set neck tension as I will not crimp)
Trim with LEE cutter and lock stud.
Debur and chamfer inside and out of case mouth.
Final clean with same solution.
This is as far as I've gotten. I will now sort by weight, hand prime each case, weigh each powder charge with beam scale and charge by funnel.
I will then seat the bullet but have to come up with a way to measure depth until I get a comparator.
Any comments or suggestions on the process?
Decap with decapper and base
Ream all pockets with Hornady primer pocket reamer (even non-crimped brass) to ensure all pockets are beveled and cut exactly the same down to the flash hole.
First cleaning of all brass. I don't have a tumbler so I'm cleaning with vinegar and salt, rinse throughly.
Clean and uniform flash hole with small screwdriver. (fits flash hole and twist to clean and uniform) remove any remaining carbon in primer pocket.
Full length resize with the die 1/4 turn past contact with the shell plate.
Neck size (to hopefully set neck tension as I will not crimp)
Trim with LEE cutter and lock stud.
Debur and chamfer inside and out of case mouth.
Final clean with same solution.
This is as far as I've gotten. I will now sort by weight, hand prime each case, weigh each powder charge with beam scale and charge by funnel.
I will then seat the bullet but have to come up with a way to measure depth until I get a comparator.
Any comments or suggestions on the process?
TonyD
One Shot One Maggie's Drawers
I have discovered that it is nearly heartbreaking to;
Decap a piece of brass
Ream the primer pocket
Clean the pocket
Clean and debur the flash hole
Clean it
Lube it
Size it
Trim it
Debur and chamfer the case mouth
Clean it again
Only to throw it out with a new primer in it 'cause it's as loose as a worn out barn door.
Decap a piece of brass
Ream the primer pocket
Clean the pocket
Clean and debur the flash hole
Clean it
Lube it
Size it
Trim it
Debur and chamfer the case mouth
Clean it again
Only to throw it out with a new primer in it 'cause it's as loose as a worn out barn door.
Wildweasel
NES Member
Better than it popping out and jamming the rifle in a fast course! (or a KB!)
You can measure the size with a cheap caliper if that helps any. (harbor frieght)
You can measure the size with a cheap caliper if that helps any. (harbor frieght)
TonyD
One Shot One Maggie's Drawers
I know it's better but, damn. All that work to throw it out. Some go in easier than others and some were just plain too easy. It's hard to know right now how tight is tight enough.
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
Len: not to be a party pooper but possibly to save you some grief someday: .30 US MI Carbine cases are not techically straight walled. Nominal diameter of the case just forward of the extractor groove is 0.356", while nominal outside neck diameter is 0.336". Even with carbide sizers, the manufacturers will tell you to lube cases, though I've found if you lube every one in 5 or 8, that is sufficient.
Removing a stuck case from a Carbine die is a bitch.
Removing a stuck case from a Carbine die is a bitch.
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RKG, thanks for the correction and duly noted.
Luckily never had a stuck case in any die and hope never to have the experience.
Luckily never had a stuck case in any die and hope never to have the experience.
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If you shoot a lot then you NEED to reload. Plan on buying quality equip. You get what you pay for. Do it right and buy a Dillon press and call it a day. A single stage press will take forever to load ammo.
Pete
Pete
Can anyone give me an idea of when it starts to make sense to reload? I shoot approximately the following:
4-500 9mm/month
1-200 .40/month
<100 .45/month (maybe more if I ever get the S&W 1911 I want)
<100 .223/month
I wasn't interested in this just for fun but with ammo costs going up I'm starting to wonder. Just wondering what a breakeven might be. I'm clueless to reloading.
4-500 9mm/month
1-200 .40/month
<100 .45/month (maybe more if I ever get the S&W 1911 I want)
<100 .223/month
I wasn't interested in this just for fun but with ammo costs going up I'm starting to wonder. Just wondering what a breakeven might be. I'm clueless to reloading.
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You prob. won't save any money by reloading... The reason being is that you will most likely shoot MORE. This will make your cost of ammo less expensive. And as for cost it will all depend on the type of components you decide to use. I use expensive powders so I don't save as much as I could but, my ammo is much better than factory ammo. Plus, with the calibers you are currently shooting buying brass for them costs next to nothing. If you haven't already then you should start saving ALL of your brass. Otherwise go to Ebay and you can find 1000 pieces of once fired for around $20. If you buy from the right people you will get really good brass. Then remember you can get several reloads per brass case. Then factor primers (avg. $22/1000, powder $20/lb.) bullets will vary a lot more depending on the quantities you buy, company you buy from, lead, jacketed, plated, etc. There are many variables. I would recommend staying away from lead though.
Pete
Pete
I'm interested now. A couple questions while I'm researching this:
Do most of you really "reload" (use used cases) or do you buy brass if it's so cheap?
Where are good places to look for prices for the materials? I don't recall seeing much of this at FS, etc.
When you say stay away from lead are you referring to using only jacketed ammo? Or frangible? why?
thanks!
Do most of you really "reload" (use used cases) or do you buy brass if it's so cheap?
Where are good places to look for prices for the materials? I don't recall seeing much of this at FS, etc.
When you say stay away from lead are you referring to using only jacketed ammo? Or frangible? why?
thanks!
