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Reloading .357 Sig; questions

allen-1

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I started with a forum search; and the most recent posts I can find are pretty old. If there are more recent threads that I've missed that cover this ground - I apologize in advance and ask for the links...

I'm loading 9mm now on a Dillon 650, and have been for the last year. I'm pretty comfortable with that process.

I'm picking up another glock, a G31 which is chambered in .357SIG.

It's a bottleneck cartridge. Eddie Coyle posted in one thread that the cartridge doesn't stretch, so it doesn't need to be sized. Which answered one question for me.

Obviously I need another set of dies, and the powder and OAL specs, (which I've downloaded from the powder manufacturer's site).

There seems to be a lot of discussion about "setback", and crimping, with sources quoted showing different references for how the setback is measured.

There also seems to be a lot of discussion about the proper selection of the bullet itself so that a proper crimp can be set.

I understand OAL for a straight casing, based upon my experience with a 9mm. I'm currently using Berry plated or XTreme plated in 124 or 147 or Falcon LRN in 135.

It seems as though I should be able to use those bullets, and I'd prefer to use the plated, but the discussion about the bullet selection has me concerned. Will those bullets work?

Or is this a case of I simply need to carefully load them and find out?

And assuming that the 124 and 147 plated rounds are acceptable - which would make a "better" round for USPSA/IDPA? Yeah - that's a subjective question...

Opinions?

Thank you.
 
I know almost nothing about the caliber so not going to be any help.

Curious why you are looking to shoot it for USPSA/IDPA...just for the hell of it ? People shooting major (not 9MM) seem to be shooting either 40S&W (I know a dirty word around here some folks) or 45.

Not sure there is any advantage to that caliber when playing the shooting games.
 
I know almost nothing about the caliber so not going to be any help.

Curious why you are looking to shoot it for USPSA/IDPA...just for the hell of it ? People shooting major (not 9MM) seem to be shooting either 40S&W (I know a dirty word around here some folks) or 45.

Not sure there is any advantage to that caliber when playing the shooting games.


I shot and worked the GSSF match here in Savannah this past weekend and talked to a lot of people. A couple of people I talked to recommended the caliber as being under-rated, and suggested that I give it a try if I got a chance. Their general consensus was that it's not as "snappy" as a .40, but has an impressive amount of impact. I'm thinking that might make one hell of a pin gun with the right loads. And it makes "major" in USPSA.
 
Use a bullet with straight side profile to provide optimum bearing surface along the short neck of the .357 SIG case. It's neck tension that holds the bullet in place; crimping can add a small degree of insurance, but it isn't the primary retaininer of the seated bullet. Since the .357 SIG headspaces on the shoulder, a roll crimp can be used, if desired, but this would be for bullets with a crimp groove or cannelure. With plain bullets, you may distort the bullet with an aggressive roll crimp, cut into the plating or jacketing.
Bullet selection will be somewhat limited, compared to your 9x19mm, but sample the bullets you have and run a few before going hog wild reloading thousands. If they drop inside the case while seating or move around while being chambered or during recoil, you'll know you have a problem. Measure a round after several dry chamberings. Take a couple measurements on rounds from the magazine after a few other rounds are fired. Anything to prove that your reloads are remaining intact during all possible scenarios. Simply push a few reloaded bullets and see if they move into the case.
It is a bit more temperamental, but you should do just fine.
 
Use a bullet with straight side profile to provide optimum bearing surface along the short neck of the .357 SIG case. It's neck tension that holds the bullet in place; crimping can add a small degree of insurance, but it isn't the primary retaininer of the seated bullet. Since the .357 SIG headspaces on the shoulder, a roll crimp can be used, if desired, but this would be for bullets with a crimp groove or cannelure. With plain bullets, you may distort the bullet with an aggressive roll crimp, cut into the plating or jacketing.
Bullet selection will be somewhat limited, compared to your 9x19mm, but sample the bullets you have and run a few before going hog wild reloading thousands. If they drop inside the case while seating or move around while being chambered or during recoil, you'll know you have a problem. Measure a round after several dry chamberings. Take a couple measurements on rounds from the magazine after a few other rounds are fired. Anything to prove that your reloads are remaining intact during all possible scenarios. Simply push a few reloaded bullets and see if they move into the case.
It is a bit more temperamental, but you should do just fine.


Thank you very much. I'm printing this for reference.
 
As far as pushing on the bullet once seated, you can always force it by putting it in a vice or hammering on it (not recommended), but I'm talking about applying a modest amount of force just to detect obvious lack of bullet grip. I can't tell you exactly how many PSI to apply, sorry. You'll get the hang of it as you progress.
These same quirks apply to calibers like .30 Luger, 7.63 Mauser, 7.62 Tokarev and so on.
Good luck.
 
As far as pushing on the bullet once seated, you can always force it by putting it in a vice or hammering on it (not recommended), but I'm talking about applying a modest amount of force just to detect obvious lack of bullet grip. I can't tell you exactly how many PSI to apply, sorry. You'll get the hang of it as you progress.
These same quirks apply to calibers like .30 Luger, 7.63 Mauser, 7.62 Tokarev and so on.
Good luck.

Ah. Tap on the bullet with my punch driving nylon/brass mallet with the bullet sitting on a solid surface dimpled to relieve for the primer. If I use a pencil to mark first, I'll be able to see if it moves at all. And if the bullet falls into the case - I've definitely got a problem.
 
I have no first hand experience loading .357 Sig, but from what I've seen if you want to load some real heaters for pin shoots, I've read of people doing very well loading with the 124 gr. Hornady XTP or HAP bullets.
 
Their general consensus was that it's not as "snappy" as a .40, but has an impressive amount of impact.

As a re-loader, you can make a soft shooting .40 major load. I shot a match a while back and this guy was ripping through the stages...super fast...shooting 40S&W reloads.
 
Only had a 357 sig for about a week. I dont recall any of the ammo having a roll crimp. If it did it was light.
Im not sure why someone would suggest a 357 sig. For comp? When a 9 or 45 will get you there?
Anyway its a cool cartridge in its own little right. You c an get what 147 grainers going 1300fps ish IIRC.
I did not sell mine because of cartridge glocks just dont feel right in my hands no matter the chambering.

Back when one club i go to was fun pin shoots where shot mainly with 45 with the heaviest wad semi cutters you could find or cast. Seemed to be a good amount of 38 super too.

Have fun and let us know what you end up with.
 
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I just started reloading this caliber. Being bottleneck you should lube the cases. I tried a two step process. I resized and deprimed the cases in a .40 S&W die. The resized them and primed them in a .357 Sig Die. All with no lube. Loaded with Power Pistol with good results.
 
Only had a 357 sig for about a week. I dont recall any of the ammo having a roll crimp. If it did it was light.
Im not sure why someone would suggest a 357 sig. For comp? When a 9 or 45 will get you there?
Anyway its a cool cartridge in its own little right. You c an get what 147 grainers going 1300fps ish IIRC.
I did not sell mine because of cartridge glocks just dont feel right in my hands no matter the chambering.

Back when one club i go to was fun pin shoots where shot mainly with 45 with the heaviest wad semi cutters you could find or cast. Seemed to be a good amount of 38 super too.

Have fun and let us know what you end up with.


I like the Glock as a 9mm platform. I've got more than a couple of them, 43s, 17s, Poly80's, a LoneWolf17 and a 34. I had one in .45 a G21 and didn't like it much. I'm currently using a S&W .45 1911 as a pin gun, and it runs well. I'm running 230grn semi-wadcutters in that. The G31 is just something that piqued my curiosity - so I'll try it.
 
I just started reloading this caliber. Being bottleneck you should lube the cases. I tried a two step process. I resized and deprimed the cases in a .40 S&W die. The resized them and primed them in a .357 Sig Die. All with no lube. Loaded with Power Pistol with good results.

Sorry, say that again. You say that I should lube the cases, yet you did it with no lube?
 
Sorry, say that again. You say that I should lube the cases, yet you did it with no lube?
It was recommended to me to lube the cases if you resize only with a .357 Sig resizing die. By doing a two step process using first a .40 S&W resizing die and then a .357 Sig resizing die you can avoid lubing the cases.
 
I know almost nothing about the caliber so not going to be any help.

Curious why you are looking to shoot it for USPSA/IDPA...just for the hell of it ? People shooting major (not 9MM) seem to be shooting either 40S&W (I know a dirty word around here some folks) or 45.

Not sure there is any advantage to that caliber when playing the shooting games.

One reason is that .357 Sig feeds really reliably.
 
More reliably than .40 or .45....hmmmm. Again, not sure there is any advantage when playing the shooting games.

Yes, more reliably. 9mm, .40, and .45 all jam sometimes. Not a lot, but sometimes. .357 Sig, because it's bottlenecked, feeds better and more reliably.

You've seen what people will do for an extra 1/10 second, this is pretty easy and doesn't cost much.
 
It needs to be sized. You'll likely never have to trim it.

Unrelated subject, I want to be able to "bump" an ad (not ready yet) but can't find the "go advanced" option. I am able to edit, but can't edit the title line, which I would like to be able to freshen up a bit. Do I need to upgrade membership ? Instructions appreciated so I can do this myself. "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach him to fish and you feed him for a lifetime". Thanks, Dan Chansky - Baker Arms
 
Unrelated subject, I want to be able to "bump" an ad (not ready yet) but can't find the "go advanced" option. I am able to edit, but can't edit the title line, which I would like to be able to freshen up a bit. Do I need to upgrade membership ? Instructions appreciated so I can do this myself. "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach him to fish and you feed him for a lifetime". Thanks, Dan Chansky - Baker Arms
After seven days, add a post to the bottom of the thread. Most people just post "Bump".
 
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