Reloading 308 on Dillion 650 or Single Stage Press

HarryPottar

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First off, I again would like to thank everyone on here, I would not be at this stage now if it was not for everyones help on this great forum.

Some background info for context on the question following;

I have a Dillion 650 and load a bunch of pistol rounds, 45,357,38s,9 etc and so far just one rifle size 223 (which the son uses to plink mainly)

I just picked up a Ruger Precision Rifle in 308 with a Vortex 5-25x50 scope, my Son as a 308 Savage Dicks Special as well.

I'm no sniper, I'm just dipping my toe into long range shooting, I have to learn how to use the scope and all math etc.

I'm a member of the Hopkinton Sportsman's Association, so I'm limited to 200 yards (once approved).

I did find a 1000 yard range at Granby Bow and Gun Club that I may enquire about joining as well.

Question and Thoughts:

Should I load 308 on my existing Dillion or start as I mean to go on and buy a Single Stage Press and try my hand at precision reloading?

I was looking at the Hornady Lock n Load Iron single stage press.

How much difference in reality to my experience would I see or benefit from?

If I stay with Dillion are the Dillion Dies good enough or should I look at something like the Redding Premium Deluxe Die set?

I have the RT 1500 on the Dillion which I love for speed and convenience on the 223, is this could enough for precision (reloading) trimming or if I go the single stage route should I look for a precision trimmer?

Thanks in advance.

Harry
 
First off, I again would like to thank everyone on here, I would not be at this stage now if it was not for everyones help on this great forum.

Some background info for context on the question following;

I have a Dillion 650 and load a bunch of pistol rounds, 45,357,38s,9 etc and so far just one rifle size 223 (which the son uses to plink mainly)

I just picked up a Ruger Precision Rifle in 308 with a Vortex 5-25x50 scope, my Son as a 308 Savage Dicks Special as well.

I'm no sniper, I'm just dipping my toe into long range shooting, I have to learn how to use the scope and all math etc.

I'm a member of the Hopkinton Sportsman's Association, so I'm limited to 200 yards (once approved).

I did find a 1000 yard range at Granby Bow and Gun Club that I may enquire about joining as well.

Question and Thoughts:

Should I load 308 on my existing Dillion or start as I mean to go on and buy a Single Stage Press and try my hand at precision reloading?

I was looking at the Hornady Lock n Load Iron single stage press.

How much difference in reality to my experience would I see or benefit from?

If I stay with Dillion are the Dillion Dies good enough or should I look at something like the Redding Premium Deluxe Die set?

I have the RT 1500 on the Dillion which I love for speed and convenience on the 223, is this could enough for precision (reloading) trimming or if I go the single stage route should I look for a precision trimmer?

Thanks in advance.

Harry

i will say that a single stage always finds a use in a reloading room.
they are not expensive and if you find a load you like and want to turn out a few thousand rounds quickly you can switch the 650.
 
I don't think an Iron press does anything better than a Rockchucker. If it's much more expensive, I'd pass.

You can use the RT1500, but I wouldn't trim while I was making ammo. Instead, I'd run the cases through a "prep-only" cycle on the 650 where I resized and trimmed (only). Then clean off the lube, chamfer and deburr the case mouths, take care of any primer pocket crimps, and then go ahead and finish the rounds up on another trip through the 650 where you prime, charge, and seat.

With that said, even though I have a 650, I load all of my precision stuff on a single stage though because I'm not making 1000s at a whack, and I think I get better control doing them one at a time.
 
I don't think an Iron press does anything better than a Rockchucker. If it's much more expensive, I'd pass.

You can use the RT1500, but I wouldn't trim while I was making ammo. Instead, I'd run the cases through a "prep-only" cycle on the 650 where I resized and trimmed (only). Then clean off the lube, chamfer and deburr the case mouths, take care of any primer pocket crimps, and then go ahead and finish the rounds up on another trip through the 650 where you prime, charge, and seat.

With that said, even though I have a 650, I load all of my precision stuff on a single stage though because I'm not making 1000s at a whack, and I think I get better control doing them one at a time.

Thanks Eddie.


Current process with 233, again these are not precision rounds, these are paper target rounds my son likes to unload on.

Dry Tumble.
Lube
Then through Dillon
Resize Deprime
Swage, I have the swage adapter that goes on the de-primer unit.
RT 1500 Trim

Wet tumble with pins to clean off any burrs.
Heated Dry then let them sit for a week.

Then 2nd pass through the Dillion
Prime and Powder Drop
Powder Check
Bullet Seat
Bullet Crimp

I'm doing thousands on the Dillion

On the 308 I imagine I would do 50-100 at the time, I not sure if I want to do the case prep on the Dillion or I should hand case prep for more accuracy.
Not going to wet tumble, I've read that not good for precision shooting.

I know as a beginner I'm not going to benefit from the hand loading but unsure if i should put the money spent on Dillion Caliber change, quick change unit and dies into a new single press set up.

I will look at the Rockchucker, the Iron press look quite a sturdy unit, but I have no preference other than I believe in buying the right tool for the job.

Thanks
Harry
 
This is just me and what I do:
All cases are deprimed and inspected and sorted by cartridge. I swage the primer pocket of any military cases that haven't been previously swaged and clean all cases.

Bottle neck cases go through my Co-Ax as follows:
1) size case
2) prime
3) remove from shell holder and measure case length
4) trim and chamfer if needed
5) charge with bench-mounted powder measure
6) immediately look down case at powder to judge presence and height of powder column
7) immediately seat the bullet.
Since there is only one station on the Co-Ax, I do my sizing by batch.
The charge/inspect/seat is done immediately together and I can stop whenever I like as there is either a sized/primed/trimmed case waiting or there is a loaded round--nothing is in a state between the two conditions.
Now, if you are going to get any real advantage from a progressive press (other than simply using what you already have, which makes perfect sense), you need to eliminate any step that removes the case from the shell plate. You need to have the primer pocket swage and the case trimmer right on the press. This pretty much means a 1050.
 
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Now, if you are going to get any real advantage from a progressive press (other than simply using what you already have, which makes perfect sense), you need to eliminate any step that removes the case from the shell plate. You need to have the primer pocket swage and the case trimmer right on the press. This pretty much means a 1050.

I disagree.

You can get plenty of benefit by running the cases through a 650 in two passes - especially if you swap out the priming anvil for an aftermarket primer pocket swager. Size/trim/swage the first time through, then prime/charge/seat the second time through.

The second time I process a lot of brass the benefit is huge because I've already taken care of the primer crimp and trimmed to min length (and set up my sizing die to minimize stretch), so I can do the whole thing at once on my 650.

Trying to do it all including trimming on a 1050 is a bad idea if you like making accurate ammo. You get inconsistent powder drops when you trim on the press because not all cases need to be trimmed the same amount, and the trimmer vibrates the machine differently case-to-case. That's not good for accurate powder drops.
 
The RT1500 and aftermarket swager is a great if you're looking for throughput, again it's making ammo for the right use.

So far this method is for 223 only which is not meant (for us) as precision round.


image2.jpg

In this picture you can see the after market Swager where the de-primer would go, I have a light and camera in the dia above it that connects to an ipad over wifi for inspection.

image1.jpg

This shows the RT1500 and camera with light out of the die.

This link is the inspection camera I use, $35 from amazon.

You will also need the 300 blackout trimmer ring CD300B which is perfect to hold the camera in place, link.

Nice set up for processing a lot of brass, I normally correct and process 2-5k at a time, that way have a bucket of 223 always ready to reload.

harry
 

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I have spent some time researching and decided to order the following.

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Press.

Bushing conversion kit.

Ultra Mount so I can rase it up and load standing.

Redding Competition bushing neck 3 de set 308.

Steel bushings from 330-336, the coated bushing are lot more expensive and although they say they don't need lube, from what I have read they still do.

Redding Competition Shell Holders.

Redding 2400 Match Precision Case Trimmer.

Although the Dillion would exceed my long range shooting skills and be faster, I see myself wanting to perfect this and learn precision reloading so I thought this would be a good set up to start with. I will only be doing 50-100 at a time.

I've also ordered some measuring equipment;

Hornady Lock n Load Overall Length Gauge

308 modified case

Comparator and inserts.

Will be a fun new journey.

Thanks for the input.

Harry
 
You might want to look at a full length sizing die or a body die too. There's going to come a time when you're going to need to squeeze that shit back.
 
You might want to look at a full length sizing die or a body die too. There's going to come a time when you're going to need to squeeze that shit back.

Thanks Eddie.

The Redding Competition 3 die set comes with a head space sizing die that does not size the body and a separate body sizing die that only bumps the shoulder position as it size the full body.

The Match Die set that only as two dies as the full body and neck spacing the a single die.

The Match full body die as belling built in where the Competition does not.

Would the Match full body die be better than the two from the Competition set?

thanks
Harry
 
Case trimming 308 on rockchucker with RT1500

Hi All,

Rather than start a new thread I thought I would high jack my own.

Again thanks for the all help.

The items I ordered (post #8) have started to arrive and I'm planning space in my reloading room.

Side note, I did order a Lee Precision 308 collet Die as well. Going to play with that and the Redding Competition Bushing Size.

One sizes the outer neck, passing the deformities to the inside, the Lee size the inner neck passing the deformities to the outside.

Going to see if one method is better over the other.

Anyway, As posted before I use the RT1500 trimmer on my XL650 for processing massive amount of 223.

So I have started to look at different trimming for the 308 Precision loading setup, I see around the "interweb" that others have mounted the RT1500 to a

Rockchucker, you need a shell plate extender so you can mount the RT1500 high enough in the Rockchucker to mount the vacuum.

Assuming the RT1500 as better tolerances in a single stage press than on the Dillion.

My question ( I know finally) are there other mounting dies other than Dillion for the RT1500, my understanding is that the Dillion 308 tim die is also a full length sizer and I do not want to full length size my fire formed brass.

thank in advance


harry
 
I just wanted to mention regardless of with its a 650 or 1050 you still need two trips through the press unless your buying new uniform brass. Or your buying brass some else already processed.


I just set my 1050 up for .308.. i had the rt1200 for .223 so i just bought the carbide trimmer die for .308.

I do my sizing and decapping in station 1. If you neck size only in station 1 when you get to the trim die if you can get just a bit of pressure on the case it wont bump it back anymore, but it will keep the case from spinning in the shell plate while it trims.... i use a neck size die or lyman m-die size after trimming anyway.
 
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