Rattlecan Paint job for rifle

SHOCKNAWE

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Title says it all, I want to paint one of my rifles. Aervoe paint I read was pretty good, I want a matte finish in olive drab, just looking for some tips or recommendations for the best paint to use. I'm hoping to do a Magpul stock as well my rail. Any help would be awesome. Thanks
 

mac1911

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I have used all sorts of canned paint.
High temp paint seems to hold up well.
If a certain color is needed try hobby stores.
Might not hold up as well but they have some very good "military" colors.
 

greencobra

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i did just a magpul pistol grip and an a1 stock using krylon camo paint. before i painted, i sprayed them with a product i got at the auto supply store that you can apply to metal, polymer and plastics to help the paint adhere better to the surface. then i painted, and finally over sprayed with a matte clear finish also from the auto store to protect the paint better from chips, etc. each spray i let dry 24 hours before going to the next. did all that bull shit work? yeah, ran those for 2 years with minimal damage to the painted surfaces. they did of course show normal wear. i've since removed those parts and the only place where the color really came off is inside the pistol grip where it rubs onto the lower while installing and removing.
 

413dan

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allahsnackbah does some of his rifles up. check the ak and ar thread. he recently posted some of his rifles he rattle canned. Ive never done it, but hearing what he's said, seems to hold up well enough. and doesn't break the bank. cheers
 

MGnoob

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Im not a fan of rattlecan jobs over a nice factory finnish. I have a AR that has a camo cerikote job i hate.
i have been debating spray painting over.in this situation it a reasonable thing to do.
I wouldnt worry about hiw well it holds up..just spray it some more.
 
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I did my SPR build the other day and used Rustoleum camo line. I don't use primer or clear but I like the worn look. I just wish they used the small spray nozzle instead of the large.
 

S&WMan

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Another vote for Brownells Aluma Hyde ll. I've used it on small projects. On the plus side I've found it to be very durable because it's epoxy based. On the negative the colors go in and out of stock often, it sprays out on the thick side making it a little tough to work with and the cure time is long as in up to a couple of weeks to fully cure.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...re-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx
 

mac1911

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Another vote for Brownells Aluma Hyde ll. I've used it on small projects. On the plus side I've found it to be very durable because it's epoxy based. On the negative the colors go in and out of stock often, it sprays out on the thick side making it a little tough to work with and the cure time is long as in up to a couple of weeks to fully cure.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...re-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx
the key to aluma hyde is thin coats and you cant wait to long between coats. If it dries for more than IIRC 30-60min you need to let it completely cure again before recoat.
 

atmay

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I used the Krylon camo paints on all the rifles I painted.

It’s all held up pretty well, and the good news is, you can just spray more on when it wears off.

Just remember to tape up the stuff you want want paint on.
 

wmass

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Nicely done!

I used the Krylon camo on mine and loved the result. It is surprisingly durable too.
 

mac1911

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Brownells Aluma-Hyde is very durable. I used it to paint several beat guns and it holds up well.
make sure to get aluma hyde II if your not goingto oven cure it. It takes a good while to cure 100%
Title says it all, I want to paint one of my rifles. Aervoe paint I read was pretty good, I want a matte finish in olive drab, just looking for some tips or recommendations for the best paint to use. I'm hoping to do a Magpul stock as well my rail. Any help would be awesome. Thanks
I will say this, I have painted a lot of things. The paint does not matter much as the prep work. Follow the directions.
Go with epoxy based paints to help fight solvents..... High heat enamels need to be cured with heat, some in stages. Avoid these, if your not going to heat cure the paints just buy cheap walmart brand paints and have fun

takes a good week or so to air cure but is good stuff
BROWNELLS ALUMA-HYDE® II | Brownells

Im not even sure the oven cured Alumahyde is available anymore. I used it years ago on some AK and AR mags. I stunk up my moms house and the oven! Dont do that
 

Taipan01

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I used Brownells Aluma Hyde ll to redo a WASR-10's metal parts years ago. It was suspended by bare metal wires from the ceiling at the gun shop which didn't help an already lousy finish. It was at the time you could pick them up with 2 30 rounders sling and oiler kit for about sub $250.00. Had I known, I'd have bought a bunch more just to have. I spent a rainy day redoing the metal and wood and curing it's only mechanical flaw of a slight mag wobble. I also buffed the bolt/piston to a high polish. I spent $20.00 on things I didn't already have on shelfs. Still looks exactly the same today:

AK with bayonette small.jpg
 

ReluctantDecoy

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I tried some of that Duracoat rattlecan. The one with the hardener built into the can that you release right before painting. For the money it costs, I'm unimpressed. Followed directions to a T regarding degreasing and prepping the surface. Did the coats even and relatively thin over several passes. I let it cure for weeks after. It looked great at first, but even after the first range day I was getting chipping from case ejection. For $45., I expected more. When I broke down the gun for a deep clean, I noticed it was even rubbing away where the plastic stock mates with the receiver. The only thing I can think of was humidity while I was applying the coats. It was summer. But still...

For now, I'd stick with grill or engine paint for DIY, but would rather just save up for a pro cerakote job.
 

mac1911

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I tried some of that Duracoat rattlecan. The one with the hardener built into the can that you release right before painting. For the money it costs, I'm unimpressed. Followed directions to a T regarding degreasing and prepping the surface. Did the coats even and relatively thin over several passes. I let it cure for weeks after. It looked great at first, but even after the first range day I was getting chipping from case ejection. For $45., I expected more. When I broke down the gun for a deep clean, I noticed it was even rubbing away where the plastic stock mates with the receiver. The only thing I can think of was humidity while I was applying the coats. It was summer. But still...

For now, I'd stick with grill or engine paint for DIY, but would rather just save up for a pro cerakote job.
yes for the money it sucks if it does not work well.
I found in my hack painting jobs You really cant get the parts clean enough. I always start with a heavy hot water bath of dish soapy water. My dad drilled this into me for years.
Any solvent or anything that might contaminate the finish likes to collect on edges and grooves.
I have learned to stay away from Spray break cleaners. I really dont care what they say I just do not get a good finish if I use spary cleaners for the final cleaning prep.
Mineral Spirits for enamels and Isopropyl Alcohol 70% works fine then let it dry. Painting in the sun can ruin your paint as well. I dont know what happens but it just does not work out sometimes.
another thing I learned the hard way from not reading directions is wait times between coats and mixing different manufactures.
I will use the same manufacture for primer and paint if needed.
Duracoat is one of those finished that likes anodizing and parkerizing other finishes need to be scuffed up a bit.
What some of these finishes offer is a much thinner finish vs average rattle can paints.

when you need to mix 2 part stuff you have to find that ratio that works best for you and stay with in that manufacture zone for it to cure right. I dont play with 2 part paints to often and I feel its probably temp sensitive also. I like to try and paint when its mid 70s and 50% humidity. Seems to work for me over the years, I am far from a pro I just try to up my hacking level to my best abilities
 

SgtHal75

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Title says it all, I want to paint one of my rifles. Aervoe paint I read was pretty good, I want a matte finish in olive drab, just looking for some tips or recommendations for the best paint to use. I'm hoping to do a Magpul stock as well my rail. Any help would be awesome. Thanks
I just use the Camouflage rattle cans. Just spray the shit out of it how u want and shoot it. The distresssed look over time is so Mall ninja, tacticool, spaceship door gunner awesome! Can’t wait for the vaccine in 18 months so I can shoot again, lol!!!!!
 
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