Question for the FAL guys..

southshoresig

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I'm new to FAL's but quickly becoming obsessed, I have an Imbel upper with barrel already attached, I want to add a lower. I think I can use inch or metric lower, is that correct? I can get a austrailian lower or imbel lower from friend he wants more for the Imbel. Is there any advantage to one over the other? Should I get the Imbel to match the upper? I believe that lowers can be swapped out on the FAL's with out affecting function(headspacing), is that correct? Sorry if I sound stupid, but I'm very new to this platform. Thanks for any and all info.
 
The IMBEL is a metric pattern receiver, you would be better getting a G1 or STG58 metric lower parts are a lot easier to find than a Inch pattern lower and the FIT with the upper is better.

Join www.falfiles.com if your not already a member and you will find what you need.

You don't want to mix and match inch and metric parts, in the FAL world that is would be mixing oil and water.

The only parts that affect head spacing are the receiver, barrel, locking shoulder, and bolt, and No you cannot remove the barrel install another barrel and expect the headspacing to remain the same.

BTW you need the book "the FAL Rifle" by "R Blake Stevens" Its can be found for about 90.00 from vendors on the Fal Files.

If you have any more questions feel free to PM me.


I'm new to FAL's but quickly becoming obsessed, I have an Imbel upper with barrel already attached, I want to add a lower. I think I can use inch or metric lower, is that correct? I can get a australian lower or imbel lower from friend he wants more for the Imbel. Is there any advantage to one over the other? Should I get the Imbel to match the upper? I believe that lowers can be swapped out on the FAL's with out affecting function(headspacing), is that correct? Sorry if I sound stupid, but I'm very new to this platform. Thanks for any and all info.
 
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I'm new to FAL's but quickly becoming obsessed, I have an Imbel upper with barrel already attached, I want to add a lower. I think I can use inch or metric lower, is that correct? I can get a austrailian lower or imbel lower from friend he wants more for the Imbel. Is there any advantage to one over the other? Should I get the Imbel to match the upper? I believe that lowers can be swapped out on the FAL's with out affecting function(headspacing), is that correct? Sorry if I sound stupid, but I'm very new to this platform. Thanks for any and all info.

Yes you can swap. But if you go with an 'inch" aussie lower you will have to change out the rear sight to metric (presuming your barrel on your upper is metric) due to different front gas block and sight post heights, which will be an added cost. So depending how much more he wants for the Imbel lower it might be cheaper or a wash if cost is a concern.

In the long run, making you rifle 922r compliant will be cheaper if it is overall metric (You have more options with US made stock sets and parts etc.) A majority of commercial aftermarket parts (DSA for example) are metric.

IMHO, an imbel lower on an imbel upper and barrel (imbel?) will have more overall value versus a complete mixmaster.
 
How do I know if my barrel is metric? What are the differences between inch and metric front sights or barrels? Thank you for the info
 
How do I know if my barrel is metric? What are the differences between inch and metric front sights or barrels? Thank you for the info

Did you buy this as a barreled receiver package? Out of curiosity are there any markings on your barrel?

As a general rule of thumb and to keep it simple...an inch pattern (commonwealth) FSB/Gas block will look like this:

gasportlocationinch.jpg


You see how there is a big circular hole sigh protecting ears? This is in general referred to an "open ear" gas block.

Metric is informally known as "closed ear" gas block and will look something like this.

DSA_SA58_Para_Gas_Block_J.jpg


Now there are variations such as with Argentinian and Israeli but there is no need to get so specific atm.

Rear sights...

If you have an "open" ear gas block (unless it is Argentinian or Israeli)...you would want to use the inch rear sight...which would be standard on the Aussie lower

http://estore.websitepros.com/stores/832529/catalog/Inch%20rear%20sight%20parts.JPG

"closed" ear...metric..which would be standard on the imbel lower.

http://estore.websitepros.com/stores/832529/catalog/Metric%20rear%20sight%20parts.JPG
 
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I have the open ear gas block. The only marking I can find on the barrel is a W on the bottom. Does that confine me to inch lowers or are the sights from inch and metric reciever easily interchangeable? Once again thanks for the info
 
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I have the open ear gas block. The only marking I can find is a W on the bottom. Does that confine me to inch lowers or are the sights from inch and metric reciever easily interchangeable? Once again thanks for the info


Rear sights will interchange and install so you are not stuck with either. The goal is to match up the correct rear sight with the Front sight block/Gas block. But that is about the only part that will...i.e. if you have an inch lower...it will mount to the metric upper...but apart from the sight the rest of the parts on the lower will be inch (internals, stocks etc.)

You will probably be going with inch rear sights, but it is possible that it may be Israeli or Argentinian.

W? no other proof markings? Out of curiosity...do you know who assembled your barrel to your upper? What markings does your imbel receiver have? Is it a Gear Logo...or does it say R1a1 Sporter or L1a1 Sporter?

Edit: Have read that Century did some L1a1 builds with Wilson barrels. Maybe?
 
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That could be it. It is a century build marked R1A1. It is an Imbel reciever marked assembled by century with a 2000 stamped inside mag well. I just figured I would put a metric lower on it so it wouldn't be such a mixmaster. The only imprint on barrel I see is the W. Is the Wilson a good barrel? Chrome lined? It looks pristine. Thanks again for all the info.
 
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Century also used Green Mountain barrels too. I do not think they were chrome lined (not many milsurp were either) but from what I understand both Wilson and GM were good barrels. Also its an almost new if not new barrel.

Anyway...my guess is it sounds like a commercial barrel on an century build using an Imbel receiver as an L1a1 sporter. Given you probably have an inch gas block (not Israeli or Argentinian)...either would be fine but both have pros and cons.

Metric...replacement parts will be overall cheaper but you are going to have to buy more of them.

Inch...given your gas block, probably more correct and you have correct rear sight, but parts (922r compliance, etc) will in general be a slightly harder to find, you will have less options for customization and cost just a little more.

If you have access to the lowers, another point of consideration is which one matches your upper best in fit and finish.

my 2 pennies
 
Thanks for all the help. I put the inch lower on it. It matches the park and the sights line up nicely. Now my question is which furniture fits inch lowers and barrels? STG, Imbel, and South African are all metric right? Are Izzy stocks inch? If not what wood furniture will fit inch pattern?
 
Thanks for all the help. I put the inch lower on it. It matches the park and the sights line up nicely. Now my question is which furniture fits inch lowers and barrels? STG, Imbel, and South African are all metric right? Are Izzy stocks inch? If not what wood furniture will fit inch pattern?

Hand guards are interchangeable. PG and buttstock you will have to go with inch. Correct STG Imbel and SA metric...Izzy I dont know off the top of my head I have to research but I am leaning towards metric.

http://www.gunthings.com/ carries inch stuff as does www.gunpartsguy.com

For all new US made wood you can go to Ironwood Designs...little more pricey http://www.ironwooddesigns.com/2aprod/1products.html

Another option is what was mentioned earlier and search classifieds on falfiles.

JD
 
I lied, I found more markings under handguard retaining ring. NM or NA, cant tell, on left side of barrel near threads, and a crown with crossed flags? and a P underneath with the W over them on the bottom near threads. Any help to IDing the barrel? Thanks again
 
These are pics from what was surmised as an Aussie Barrel

attachment.php


attachment.php


the FN would be a barrel date code...which I am guessing the NM or NA possibly might be, although I don't know the whole run of date codes.

Without pics of yours it is hard to tell and I can only guess.

Brit Barrels will usually have NSN numbers on it as well as the gas block and I think Indian is something other than a crown and would have serial numbers.

You best bet for a definitive answer is what SASAM recommended...register falfiles.com and check there. Pretty much the gathering place for FAL expertise on the net.

JD
 
That's it! The bottom pic is it. The only difference is 2" above the crown is a W. I'm glad I got the Aussie lower, now it almost, sort of matches, in a way. Are these known to be good barrels? It looks to be in great shape. It has one of the Century flash hiders on it, do you know how they were attached, I like to put a real Aussie flash hider on. Thanks
 
That's it! The bottom pic is it. The only difference is 2" above the crown is a W. I'm glad I got the Aussie lower, now it almost, sort of matches, in a way. Are these known to be good barrels? It looks to be in great shape. It has one of the Century flash hiders on it, do you know how they were attached, I like to put a real Aussie flash hider on. Thanks

Commonwealth barrels are good. Century flash hider? Muzzle brake? I imagine that century at a minimum pins whatever they put on, welded I dunno...but have no idea about the threads underneath.
 
If you have a standard inch flash hider, five gas vents with a bayo lug underneath and just behind that a small half circle protrusion, sorry no pic. then the half circle has a pin through the center which holds a indexing washer in place. This washer extends into a cut in the barrel holding it in the correct position. Assuming century didn't solder on the flash hider it will screw off after removing the pin and indexing washer.
Regards,
Brian
 
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