Proper Method of Zeroing Bushnell TRS-25 on Mark III 22/45

[pfiedler]

Just purchased a Bushnell TRS-25 for my Mark III. Checking to see if anybody has found a successful way of properly zeroing that RDS on a Mark III. I've heard you should test/zero at about 25 yards, adjusting windage & elevation until groupings are where you want them. Before I start mucking with the W&E adjustments, I thought I would check and see if anybody on NEShooters had already successfully accomplished the same task.
Thanks in advance for any advice/suggestions.
Shoot safely!
Peter

 

[mac1911]

you zero where ever you want the point of aim to be point of impact... distance is up to you. You could zero for point blank range also so you can hit for example a 4" target from 5-XX yards with out changing your hold point

 

[45collector]

I have the exact same thing on my stainless bull barrel MKIII target model. That thing is deadly on cans @ 50 yards at the plinking range. I don't recall there being any special way to sight it in. Just like any other red dot or scope: Adjust until it's where you want it.

 

[one-eyed Jack]

Zero at 50 ft. Then see where it hits at 50 yards. That'll give you a good feel for the trajectory. Jack.

 

[mac1911]

Point blank range of 22lr SV is about 65-75 yards

If you zero for 50 yards and can hold 4MOA or less you should be able to "hit" a 2" target out to 75 yards. With a center hold.
This all rough calculations and best thing to do is decide what you intend to do. If your shooting steel inside 50 yards. You might want to zero a bit different.
If you zero at 10 yards you basically should be able to hit a 6" plate with center hold out to 100 yards.

Just remember your shooting pistol but I'm thinking rifle so there will be some differences do to velocity and ammo used. I only use SV 22lr.

 

[pupchow]

ZERO is where the bullet's trajectory (path) crosses paths with the center reference point (in this case, the red dot) of the sight(s).

I like to play with Nikon's SpotOn calculator. After choosing a specific load, you can modify the muzzle velocity in the calculator for more accurate results (to compensate for the shorter barrel). Ballistics By the Inch has some .22LR data you can input. You'll also want to use an accurate measurement in the sight height field - the default is 1.5"

http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22.html

http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.htm


I use the "optimize load" function, set to 1" (you'll need to select a non-BDC scope from the pulldown list, to enable the "optimize load" function). From there, I then use the calculated point blank range, and compare the ballistics and trajectory tables generated, to pick the zero that works best for my setup & intended target.

 

[mac1911]

ZERO is where the bullet's trajectory (path) crosses paths with the center reference point (in this case, the red dot) of the sight(s).

I like to play with Nikon's SpotOn calculator. After choosing a specific load, you can modify the muzzle velocity in the calculator for more accurate results (to compensate for the shorter barrel). Ballistics By the Inch has some .22LR data you can input. You'll also want to use an accurate measurement in the sight height field - the default is 1.5"

http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/22.html

http://spoton.nikonsportoptics.com/spoton/spoton.htm


I use the "optimize load" function, set to 1" (you'll need to select a non-BDC scope from the pulldown list, to enable the "optimize load" function). From there, I then use the calculated point blank range, and compare the ballistics and trajectory tables generated, to pick the zero that works best for my setup & intended target.

Playing with the ballistic calculators is fun...
Helps to get a good velocity reading also...
The more precise the info given into the calculator the better your results but 1.5" sight height will get you "close"
Trigger time and hitting targets will yield your best results...