problem with new AR15 build, when shooting Wolf steel case ammo

hminsky

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I put together an upper called the DPMS 3G1, which is an 18" HBAR, with a New Frontier polymer lower.

It works fine with brass ammo, but I'm having trouble with shooting Wolf steel case ammo.

There are two problems, maybe related.

1. I will fire and the cartridge will eject, and it seems to cycle, but sometimes it doesn't strip a new round, and sometimes it does but doesnt reset the trigger (short stroking?)

2. I saw a small dent in the primer of a round which I had not pulled the trigger on. Sticky firing pin ?

The magazines work fine in my Sig 556. I haven't had any trouble shooting brass ammo, so I suspect that the gas system might be slightly marginal, and maybe the Wolf ammo is just not cycling it quite hard enough. Perhaps also the combination of the new bolt and chamber and the steel cases make enough friction to cause slight short stroking?
 
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Is it old Lacquered cases?

Also I've heard of 50/50 reviews on the steel case ammo that sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it either over expands or doesn't expand enough causing issues with seal and sticking from carbon build up. Just shoot brass and save it for reloading or Karma it away.
 
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Is it old Lacquered cases?

Also I've heard of 50/50 reviews on the steel case ammo that sometimes it runs fine and sometimes it either over expands or doesn't expand enough causing issues with seal and sticking from carbon build up. Just shoot brass and save it for reloading or Karma it away.

It's not the lacquered stuff, it's polymer coated. There's no obvious goo on the cartridges, but they are not as smooth as brass.

My current plan is to just shoot brass through this rifle until maybe it breaks in some more and things loosen up. I lubricated the bolt when I got it, but maybe it could use some more.
 
Which wolf ammo? All my ARs will take steel cased ammo. Even the old greenish lacquer stuff. Field strip and clean the rifle again. Watch not to have a bunch of lube or oil in the chamber/ barrel.
RE DO YOUR LOWER FUNCTION AND SAFETY CHECK TO ASSURE PROPER FUNCTION.
assure your disconnect is function correctly and you have the correct spring installed for the disconnector http://www.ar15.com/content/guides/assembly/lower/
Make sure you did not use the wrong spring under the disconnect. Above link is one of the better for assembly.

If you happen to buy wolf ammo and did not like it wolf ammo will refund you money plus pay shipping .....the only manufacture of ammunition with such a policy. After all the stuff really sucks right? WOLF might be dirty the bullets may vary in weight more than some but it goes bang.

Also I our resident retired M16 amoror States "if your AR 15 5.56 Nato chambered weapon does not function on steel cased ammo there is something wrong with your weapon".
 
It's not the lacquered stuff, it's polymer coated. There's no obvious goo on the cartridges, but they are not as smooth as brass.

My current plan is to just shoot brass through this rifle until maybe it breaks in some more and things loosen up. I lubricated the bolt when I got it, but maybe it could use some more.

I noticed you said "lubed the bolt " did you clean it first. You have to clean every thing. Its jenerally coated in a anti rust compond that is anything but lube...

Go to armalite web site and find there tech section. Tons of stuff to get you on track.
 
Lubing it when you first got it is not close to enough lube AR's love lube and are dirty little *(&^*^&* especially if not piston driven like an AK feed it lube before and after every meal not saying this will fix your issue but should be done to prolong the life of your fun
 
I didn't clean it .. I'll try that.
I noticed you said "lubed the bolt " did you clean it first. You have to clean every thing. Its jenerally coated in a anti rust compond that is anything but lube...

Go to armalite web site and find there tech section. Tons of stuff to get you on track.
 
I took the bolt apart and cleaned everything with M-Pro, cleaned off the firing pin and lubricated everything with a teflon Slip 2000 lube. Hopefully this will make a difference.

The lower parts kit that came with my lower is mostly plastic, including the hammer, surprisingly. Anyway I cleaned and lubed the trigger assembly as well. I'll see how things work next time at the range.
 
Just a note....your light hit on the primer is normal. Just the bolt closeing in normal use will do this. As with garands and m1 carbines and sks......I'm sure there are more.
I don't know anything about the new plastic lowers and parts.
 
I took the bolt apart and cleaned everything with M-Pro, cleaned off the firing pin and lubricated everything with a teflon Slip 2000 lube. Hopefully this will make a difference.

The lower parts kit that came with my lower is mostly plastic, including the hammer, surprisingly. Anyway I cleaned and lubed the trigger assembly as well. I'll see how things work next time at the range.

Plastic hammer? I would lose these parts and get replacements from a reputable dealer like Brownells.
 
They are polymer parts......I don't see these being the source of his problems..only thing I can thing of is the hammer is dragging heavy on the bottom of the bolt some how?
I'm not afraid of polymer parts I have several Remington nylon rifles and they are 40 years old and seen a ton of use.
 
They are polymer parts......I don't see these being the source of his problems..only thing I can thing of is the hammer is dragging heavy on the bottom of the bolt some how?
I'm not afraid of polymer parts I have several Remington nylon rifles and they are 40 years old and seen a ton of use.

Durability isn't the only question, but I do question the durabilty of plastic trigger components. Plastic parts will not give you the same trigger as steel parts. The AR and M16 come with steel trigger groups for a reason.
 
The trigger feel is different than metal parts have, but not necessarily worse. I have had several AR15's with metal trigger groups, and the stock trigger in all of them needed some work to be able to target shoot more accurately. The plastic trigger group has a very crisp break, and no grit or anything in the takeup. If I had to describe it, it feels like you're snapping a thin plastic rod in half, like breaking a cocktail stirrer. I mean the trigger break really feels like you're breaking something!
 
seeing that the M16/A2/M4 is not going anywhere anytime soon in service I wouldnt be surprised if the switch to polymer comes to mil spec service rifles.
 
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