Powder recommendation for 44 Mag

[01SVTvert]

Just reloaded 100 44 mag using H110. Not sure if I like this powder as it seems super fine and has a little bit of variation when using my Hornady powder drop. I need to run pretty much full 44 mag loads as I am loading for a Ruger 44 mag carbine and mild loads wont cycle the action and pretty much stink in this rifle.

Suggestions on a decent powder for metering (especially in a LnL press), cost and full 44 mag loads?

Want to pick up enough powder for maybe 1 to 2k rounds so dont want to mess it up and get something I hate using.

Thanks

 

[EddieCoyle]

I like 2400, H110/W296, Lil' Gun, and IMR4227 for full power .44 Mag loads.

For the last big batch I used some pulldown WC820 powder (pulled down from .30 Carbine rounds) and it worked very well.

Here's more info:
www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/34990-44-Mag-Load-data-with-WC820-powder

 

[Knob Creek]

The standard has always been 2400 & 296.

 

[01SVTvert]

OK, sounds like H110 / 296 is the way to go. The powder was so fine I wasnt sure if the .1 grain variance I was getting was normal. Using HP38 I am usually dead on every weighed round. The other thing I found was that if I cycled the drop by hand it was about .2 gr lighter than running it in a normal progressive mode. Never had theat problem before.

 

[Zappa]

The standard has always been 2400 & 296.

But he's loading for an 18" barrel.
A slower powder works better because there's more burn time through the longer tube.
I have one of these Ruger carbines myself and it works well with 4227.
However, if you use the same loads in a revolver, you'll get mucho muzzle flash, which essentially means wasted powder burning after the bullet exits the barrel.
The loading manuals I use list both revolver and rifle loads for this caliber.
Choose something appropriate for the gun you intend to use them in.

 

[Patriot]

I have used #9 and 2400. #9 is all I use in both the 44 and 357 mags shooting either cast or jacketed.
I shoot only cast these days.. 2400 is OK and a lot of people use it so you can't go wrong with either.
I don't know if these will work with your carbine though.

 

[EddieCoyle]

But he's loading for an 18" barrel.
A slower powder works better because there's more burn time through the longer tube.
I have one of these Ruger carbines myself and it works well with 4227.
However, if you use the same loads in a revolver, you'll get mucho muzzle flash, which essentially means wasted powder burning after the bullet exits the barrel.
The loading manuals I use list both revolver and rifle loads for this caliber.
Choose something appropriate for the gun you intend to use them in.

Both of those powders are slow enough for a carbine-length barrel.

Suggestions on a decent powder for metering (especially in a LnL press), cost and full 44 mag loads?

Which powder rotor are you using? Try the rifle rotor if you're not using it already.

 

[NickW85]

OK, sounds like H110 / 296 is the way to go. The powder was so fine I wasnt sure if the .1 grain variance I was getting was normal. Using HP38 I am usually dead on every weighed round. The other thing I found was that if I cycled the drop by hand it was about .2 gr lighter than running it in a normal progressive mode. Never had theat problem before.

+10000 for H110 Love how this shoots and burns.

 

[01SVTvert]

Using the rifle rotor now. Just seems a little different metering this stuff as compared to HP38 due to it's smaller size. My table flexes with the press so I am assuming that it leads to packing the powder slightly more than just hand cycling the rotor. As long as it is consistient I will be happy. Going to try round two and do a bunch of powder weight checks during the first 25 rounds or so. Also, I am cycling about 10 charges through the press before I actually go with a loaded round.

Time for a better scale too...

I want to use something that would work in a handgun too as my son has so logically pointed out that since I am loading 44 mag now it only makes sense to buy an N frame...

 

[EddieCoyle]

My table flexes with the press so I am assuming that it leads to packing the powder slightly more than just hand cycling the rotor.

Does your powder measure have a baffle? If so, your bench flexing shouldn't make much of a difference. My older Hornady measure didn't have the baffle, but the new ones I got do. It makes a difference. If you don't have one, call Hornady and get one. They'll probably give it to you if you explain your problem.

I found that the rifle rotor throws more accurate charges for ball powder charges heavier than about 14 grains.

I like the way your son thinks.

 

[01SVTvert]

There is a baffle in the powder drop, newer LnL so the new bells and whistles are on it. On my second batch I ran the drops seemed to be much more consistent except for the variance from a manual trigger of the drop as compared to a normal drop using the press. I can live with that and just need to always check based on a full shellplate and using the handle. My scale certainly could be upgraded also.


I told my son no way...... next wheelgun has to be a 460 or 500, go big or go home. He liked that idea better.


What a hobby, it never ends.