Please help to I.D part

To all who have posted so far, Thank you for your efforts it really is appreciated.
I was hoping someone hear would be like OH OH OH I know what THAT is and wow me with impressive knowledge I could bow down to.
It still could happen hopes are high. If not solved by Monday I will be calling the manufacturers and letting them know of my ignorance and hoping that they have buckets to bail me out with.
 
Since the guns are working...magazine safety and spring maybe? When you hold the one piece between your thumb and forefinger, it looks a lot like a firing pin safety (like on a 1911. Pull trigger, pin moves up, firing pin then able to slide through the notch in the firing pin safety.). Just a thought.
 
Protip for ultrasonic cleaners: Field strip the gun and place it in the basket. There is no reason to disassemble any further. Have a rinse tank of hot water ready for when you pull the basket. After the gun is rinsed, drain it and blast any residual moisture out with compressed air. After there is no trace of moisture left, spray everything with clp then blast it again to force the oils into the mechanism. wipe everything down and run a boresnake through the barrel. Reassemble.

Follow those simple steps and you will never post another thread trying to ID random parts in your cleaner.

Also, I use a product called Carbon X. Its a neutral cleaner used in the aviation industry and is completely harmless to aluminum and ALL metal finishes besides simple spray paint. Its literally designed to strip carbon off of metal without doing anything to the metal itself. One cup of it per gallon of water is usually sufficient, but a stronger solution is sometimes required for things like old .22s with high round counts.

I hear Simple Green Pro works just as well but have never tried it.
 
Protip for ultrasonic cleaners: Field strip the gun and place it in the basket. There is no reason to disassemble any further. Have a rinse tank of hot water ready for when you pull the basket. After the gun is rinsed, drain it and blast any residual moisture out with compressed air. After there is no trace of moisture left, spray everything with clp then blast it again to force the oils into the mechanism. wipe everything down and run a boresnake through the barrel. Reassemble.

Follow those simple steps and you will never post another thread trying to ID random parts in your cleaner.

Also, I use a product called Carbon X. Its a neutral cleaner used in the aviation industry and is completely harmless to aluminum and ALL metal finishes besides simple spray paint. Its literally designed to strip carbon off of metal without doing anything to the metal itself. One cup of it per gallon of water is usually sufficient, but a stronger solution is sometimes required for things like old .22s with high round counts.

I hear Simple Green Pro works just as well but have never tried it.

Thank you for the tip.
Going forward this is what I will be doing. I had stripped the guns to ensure I got all the water based solution out and recoated with oil. I am using simple green aviation and following there dilution rates. Besides this issue of “extra parts” this worked fantastically.
If I had pulled the basket after each gun I would know what gun and at least what relative part it went with. Alas that is not what I had done and thusly placed my self in the town stockade
 
Sorry I missed his post. After looking at it while the drawing sort of matches I have taken the gun apart again and can match piece for piece on the chart with what I had. Those two pieces still remain. My fear is this is something not normally listed so I’m no my seeing where to look for missing things.
 
I think I found it!

Ruger sr45:
Striker cover spring #19
Striker cover plunger #20

These are behind the striker cover #20. (The small door on the back of the slide that covers the striker assy.)

I believe these parts are to keep the striker cover from falling out. Your cover may be tight enough to stay in place without them...for now.
Those parts not being there would still allow the firearm to operate...until it falls out on recoil. While in battery it can't fall out.

I'd check that rear striker cover plunger/spring by trying to push on it with a pin punch like you would do to disassemble slide assy.
No pressure = no plunger or spring.

Ruger_SR9,SR40_schem.jpg
 
Last edited:
P/N 19 & 20 would have been removed during your detail strip prior to ultrasonic cleaning and may have fallen below the tray during cleaning.
When you reassembled, you didn't see those parts under the tray and proceeded with assembly.

In the few videos I watched of detailed slide disassembly, none of the springs or plungers fell out during the procedure, which was sometimes aggressive. I think the spring and plunger are held in by a small amount of friction and you left them in the slide to clean them.

During the ultrasonic cleaning the vibration shook those parts out of the bore hole and they dropped below the tray.

~Matt
 
Last edited:
Each gun was put in separately while slides where disassembled by me there’s not many parts to each. (Doesn’t mean I missed those parts if they where stuck and left in the slide and then they came out so I wouldn’t have looked for them.)
I also did not fully take the firing mechs apart of the sig and 9mm shield but did remove them from the frame my goal was only a quick and light buzzing of those parts. (It worked great BTW)
Between each gun I lifted the basket up to remove parts but never fully out. Agree the concave section should rest against a round object I have already fired each gun worst case based on parts left it would not function, cycle or would auto fire. The barrel and other things that hold the gun together and or retain psi are in good shape so wasn’t worried about explosion. Did where lots off PPE though.

It's a little hard to follow this, but if you test fired each gun with real ammo, not snap caps or dummy ammo, and each gun worked fine, then the parts are not from any of the guns you listed as being cleaned.
 
If ever a friend gets one of these cleaners I’m dumping all kinds of crap in there.

Bwahahaha

This works well at a Harley shop when someone is rebuilding a five-speed tranny for the first time and you throw in an extra needle bearing when he is away from his bench...

18.jpg
 
I hear Simple Green Pro works just as well but have never tried it.

NO NO NO NO! <-- see caviat below

Simple green classic will destroy aluminum. This totally bites a lot of motorcycle guys trying to make their ride look sharp. If you use simple green, you have to rinse it off RIGHT AWAY or it'll damage and pit aluminum.

I wouldn't risk it in a gun.

Edit: I didn't know about Simple Green Aviation.
 
Last edited:
Yes each gun has been tested with live rounds. Two cycles of three rounds each (limited rounds Incase of auto fire or something) so six live rounds in total.
While it may take more to sus out the issue nothing has presented itself yet.

In regards to simple green yes it can damage aluminum however simple green aviation ,when used in the proper dilution WILL NOT HARM metals including aluminum. It was created to wash airplanes and other such things and there mostly aluminum.
 
There have been several suggestions in this thread that if a gun works properly in live fire function testing, then it must not be missing any parts. I know some of the people who suggested this idea were joking, but I am not sure if everyone who mentioned this idea was joking, so I feel required to respond.

Many modern firearms have safety parts which are necessary to make the firearm drop safe. If these parts are missing, the gun will pass all normal function tests, but the gun is unsafe to carry. Removing these parts can create serious safety issues, but the gun will still "work fine."

The most common type of extra safety parts is a plunger which blocks the firing pin unless the trigger is pulled. Most striker fired pistols use this method, and you would never notice during function testing if this important part was missing. I believe all of the pistols mentioned in this thread have a striker block plunger.

So it is easily possible to reassemble several pistols, and then find parts left over and not know where they belong. The OP in this thread is doing the right thing by investigating carefully.
 
Enbloc and Jake above have some good points and ideas. That is a TINY part, and really does resemble either some kind of safety or retention spring. The gun certainly could function fine without and be entirely unsafe. Given the size ratios from some of OP's pics, I'm inclined to suggest OP check the SR45 as Enbloc suggested to see if that's the missing bit. It's no fun when a handgun does a jack-in-the-box in your face.
 
You're very bad :D

I also used to like dripping a little fresh oil under an engine-case seal up job, after the bike was left stationary overnight with a clean piece of cardboard to catch drips.
The real trick was to take a finger full of fresh 60-weight and gently deposit it on the 6'oclock position on the silicone seam.

I'm a dink...
 
Last edited:
In regards to simple green yes it can damage aluminum however simple green aviation ,when used in the proper dilution WILL NOT HARM metals including aluminum. It was created to wash airplanes and other such things and there mostly aluminum.

I didn't even know that stuff existed! Thanks!
 
NO NO NO NO!

Simple green will destroy aluminum. This totally bites a lot of motorcycle guys trying to make their ride look sharp. If you use simple green, you have to rinse it off RIGHT AWAY or it'll damage and pit aluminum.

I wouldn't risk it in a gun.

Yeah i know. Im referring to the Pro version, which is purple, I believe and is supposed to be safe on aluminum.
 
I also used to like dripping a little fresh oil under an engine-case seal up job, after the bike was left stationary overnight with a clean piece of cardboard to catch drips.
The real trick was to take a finger full of fresh 60-weight and gently deposit it on the 6'oclock position on the silicone seem.

I'm a dink...

Well, than I am too...I have a friend at work that is always playing practical jokes on people. One example is he zip tied my horn switch on my motorcycle so when I turned the ignition switch on it went off...bastard!

So I decided I was going to get him back. He has an older Chevy Tahoe that he loves and babies. One day I poured some oil on the ground under the engine and poured some over the under carriage so it looked like he had a massive oil leak. He freaked out when he saw it but the upshot is, that although he still plays tricks on others, him playing them on me have come to a standstill. Perhaps he's planning something bigger :cool:
 
I think I found it!

Ruger sr45:
Striker cover spring #19
Striker cover plunger #20

These are behind the striker cover #20. (The small door on the back of the slide that covers the striker assy.)

I believe these parts are to keep the striker cover from falling out. Your cover may be tight enough to stay in place without them...for now.
Those parts not being there would still allow the firearm to operate...until it falls out on recoil. While in battery it can't fall out.

I'd check that rear striker cover plunger/spring by trying to push on it with a pin punch like you would do to disassemble slide assy.
No pressure = no plunger or spring.

Ruger_SR9,SR40_schem.jpg

I took the SR 45 apart part number 19/20 is there and in place.
I can account for every part listed in that diagram in the picture of the slide.
I did not remove or clean the frame and or the parts in the frame using the ultrasonic just the slide and parts In the slide.
I agree on the poster above about a drop safety or some other function control inside a firearm. These parts are tiny there is also no “wear”marks that I can see on them.
Three of the four guns have no manual safety or mag disconnect. Only the SR 45 has a manual safety as well as a magazine disconnect I’ve attached pics of the Sr 45 taken apart one pic has the pieces wand there related springs with or next to them and the two mystery parts as well for comparison.

Also I will update as I try to figure this out as well as if I ever get it solved.
 

Attachments

  • 3CA4B155-D1BD-48E2-B0E0-42222CFEC57A.jpeg
    3CA4B155-D1BD-48E2-B0E0-42222CFEC57A.jpeg
    127.9 KB · Views: 35
  • E85AC074-A153-4A78-B0D4-B52C13384203.jpeg
    E85AC074-A153-4A78-B0D4-B52C13384203.jpeg
    78.8 KB · Views: 36
  • CA8B8590-C012-48E0-A192-AF6A779369A6.jpeg
    CA8B8590-C012-48E0-A192-AF6A779369A6.jpeg
    155.4 KB · Views: 34
  • 66866BDD-3501-43DD-BCE9-6321664D3F43.jpeg
    66866BDD-3501-43DD-BCE9-6321664D3F43.jpeg
    156.5 KB · Views: 34
  • 903A076D-DD8C-4F91-9CE4-70E4BACDB3C1.jpeg
    903A076D-DD8C-4F91-9CE4-70E4BACDB3C1.jpeg
    121.8 KB · Views: 34
Here are a couple pics of the simple green.
I am using a lighter concentration than the max listed for non corrosion of metal. So I know I’m staying well I’m the “safe zone” plus it works really well even at the lighter mix.
 

Attachments

  • 7B3EC53D-1C9E-420D-8F28-1A2CD988F965.jpeg
    7B3EC53D-1C9E-420D-8F28-1A2CD988F965.jpeg
    107.3 KB · Views: 25
  • 6CDEA657-554A-4759-BA06-20CDDBC36940.jpeg
    6CDEA657-554A-4759-BA06-20CDDBC36940.jpeg
    161.1 KB · Views: 24
Also I will update as I try to figure this out as well as if I ever get it solved.
OK, that rules that out. Sometimes success is achieved by ruling all other options out.

If you could:
Please list the other three firearms that shared the ultrasonic tank with the Ruger sr45.
I know you had a Sig P250, but I'm not clear if it was a 9mm, a .40 or a .22LR, or whether it was a striker or hammer-fired model as both are available.
As to the S&W Shields you said one was a 9mm and the other a .45acp. Is this correct?

Also what level of tear-down did you do on all the lowers? None/partial/full?

~Matt
 
Last edited:
OK, that rules that out. Sometimes success is achieved by ruling all other options out.

If you could:
Please list the other three firearms that shared the ultrasonic tank with the Ruger sr45.
I know you had a Sig P250, but I'm not clear if it was a 9mm, a .40 or a .22LR, or whether it was a striker or hammer-fired model as both are available.
As to the S&W Shields you said one was a 9mm and the other a .45acp. Is this correct?

Also what level of tear-down did you do on all the lowers? None/partial/full?

~Matt
Below are the three other guns that shared this ultrasonic on the night in question!

The Sig P250 is the 9mm compact got used so unsure if any modifications were ever done I’ve fired this gun a lot and got it a year or two ago
Smith and Wesson Shield with Apex duty carry kit installed Caliber is 9mm
smith and Wesson Shield in .45 as is out of the box

Again thanks to all who have contributed I am ruling nothing out. And have zero issue checking anything someone suggests.
 
Studied the Sig and Ruger for quite some time on YouTube and manufacturer's websites without results.

The S&W owner's manual no longer posts Exploded Parts Diagram drawings, but instead read as follows.

* A parts list can be obtained by contacting Smith & Wesson Customer Service.

So, I an beginning to lean towards a S&W product.

~Matt
 
Back
Top Bottom