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Pinning AR-15 Muzzle Brake

J

jerry79xx

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Hi all,

Currently have an compliant AR and want to change the muzzle brake "compensator" from a BCM Mod 0 to a JP Compensator which I have shot and made a significant difference on my buddies competition rifle. The only difference, he lives in NH (where I use to live) and I live in MA. knowing what I know, I know if I buy the new Compensator, I would have to 1. remove my current without damaging the threads and 2. install the new comp perfectly aligned with the old pin spot.

Now I am a handy guy, but this seems like it may be out of my league... Maybe it is easier than I think but if I could pay a gunsmith $100 or so to do it then I may do it instead. With that said, has anyone had a similar need and had a gunsmith take care of it? What is the cost?
 
Its an easy job if you have the most basic of skills and access to a drill and welder. The going rate for pinning and welding a comp. in this area seems to run $75-$100. Do a few searches on this topic... lots of posts. Remsport Ludlow offers the lowest price I know of and will do it while you wait.

On my 2nd AR build, I decided to buy a cheap HF mig welder, did a little practice welding and took the plunge and pinned and welded the comp myself. Little clean up sanding, paint and your done. I am a DIY'r by nature, so YMMV if you go that route.
 
Use silver solder. You can get it from a jewelry supply house for around $20 (make sure you get one with melting point over 1100°) You can do it yourself and won't need to worry about lining up the original hole. Easy, cheap and legal.
 
willbdavis said:
1776 did mine. I'm very happy with the work.
Click to expand...
maybe so but by their web site you will wait 4 months for a small job.... well looksxlike they removed the "busy hunting season " notice from their web site?
 
Last edited:
Take it to a gunsmith. I'm no scientist but I'm pretty sure the Silver Solder method is going to change your barrels' "metal properties" as you heat it red hot to 1100*F. So consider that. Also don't be cheap and use a harbor freight drill press and welder to pin it. It'll work but I promise you it will look like hell, though of course I never take my own advise. [wink]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
mac1911 said:
maybe so but by their web site you will wait 4 months for a small job.... well looksxlike they removed the "busy hunting season " notice from their web site?
Click to expand...
That wait didn't include massifactions of AR's. They do a run of them at least once a week, typically Friday. I dropped mine off on a Tuesday and it was ready Friday.

It was just a pin and weld though. Not a removal too. The removal might change things.
 
johnny.cassidy3 said:
Take it to a gunsmith. I'm no scientist but I'm pretty sure the Silver Solder method is going to change your barrels' "metal properties" as you heat it red hot to 1100*F. So consider that. Also don't be cheap and use a harbor freight drill press and welder to pin it. It'll work but I promise you it will look like hell, though of course I never take my own advise. [wink]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

7.62x39 knows what he's talking about .

Silver solder is a pretty good method to use if you are concerned with the awb rules. It makes it much easier to swap out the break/comp at a later point .
Your only heating up the end of the barrel and your not keeping it hot for a extended amount of time .
You can also find a flux that has silver mixed in to do a cleaner job.
 
7.62x39 said:
Use silver solder. You can get it from a jewelry supply house for around $20 (make sure you get one with melting point over 1100°) You can do it yourself and won't need to worry about lining up the original hole. Easy, cheap and legal.
Click to expand...

Is it actually easier? It sounded easier to me but then when I really started looking into it, internet threads talked me out of it, in favor of pin/weld. I ended up grabbing a HF mig and doing it myself. After some sanding and perma blue, it came out well enough and is hidden, so I'm not unhappy with the results, but I'm sure a pro could have done it cleaner.
 
josh2600 said:
Is it actually easier? It sounded easier to me but then when I really started looking into it, internet threads talked me out of it, in favor of pin/weld. I ended up grabbing a HF mig and doing it myself. After some sanding and perma blue, it came out well enough and is hidden, so I'm not unhappy with the results, but I'm sure a pro could have done it cleaner.
Click to expand...

I silver braze at work . If you use the paste with the silver dust mixed in you just put a little on the threads and heat it up.
You can use a bit if the silver wire at the barrel shoulder to see if you got it got enough. There's also a type of crayon for lack of correct term. You put a line on it. When it melts off/changes color you got it got enough .
Clean up is a lot less work . If your using a stainless barrel/break scotch brit is all you'd need to remove the heat color . If it was a polish finish few mins with a polishing wheel.
Parker finish etc I'm not sure what happens to it.
 
johnny.cassidy3 said:
Take it to a gunsmith. I'm no scientist but I'm pretty sure the Silver Solder method is going to change your barrels' "metal properties" as you heat it red hot to 1100*F. So consider that. Also don't be cheap and use a harbor freight drill press and welder to pin it.
Click to expand...

Pure genius, Think about the logic of what you just posted.
You are worried about heating the solder to 1100° yet you have no qualms about taking a welder to it. A welder runs at least twice as hot as what it takes to melt the solder.
 
7.62x39 said:
Pure genius, Think about the logic of what you just posted.
You are worried about heating the solder to 1100° yet you have no qualms about taking a welder to it. A welder runs at least twice as hot as what it takes to melt the solder.
Click to expand...

I figured that would of clicked for most people lol .

2750°f for steel and around that for most steel alloy . So more then double :)
 
7.62x39 said:
Pure genius, Think about the logic of what you just posted.
You are worried about heating the solder to 1100° yet you have no qualms about taking a welder to it. A welder runs at least twice as hot as what it takes to melt the solder.
Click to expand...

Ugh, welder is a quick second of heat in the tiny spot where the pin is. Then sanding down the the blob on the pin over the brake (not barrel) is fugly. I have to hand it to you, that's the first online attack I've ever had on NES.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
HaHA the "new" NES has thin skin. I would say silver solder melts at a lower temp but you are going to have a larger HAZ if you don't know what you are doing with the torch. A quick zap with a mig welder would do it without affecting any of your barrels properties. If you can get your hands on a tig welder you will even be in better shape.
When I pinned mine I left it noticeable. It's on an ak and my small booger weld looks right at home. There is no question it's pinned.
 
Gator9329 said:
HaHA the "new" NES has thin skin. I would say silver solder melts at a lower temp but you are going to have a larger HAZ if you don't know what you are doing with the torch. A quick zap with a mig welder would do it without affecting any of your barrels properties. If you can get your hands on a tig welder you will even be in better shape.
Click to expand...

If you bought a barrel during the ban (1994-2004) the vast majority were seam welded a full 360 degrees even though the ATF only requires 180 degrees. Some are still doing it today If you order a post ban barrel or upper.

From 2.1.3 Quote:
Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam weld extending at least one-half the circumference of the barrel, high-temperature (1100°F) silver soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over.
 

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