Permanently Attaching Muzzle Brake on AR?

[turbo89]

How is everyone one permanently attaching the muzzle brakes to there AR's? I just ordered a complete upper assembly, and need to "permanently attach" the muzzle brake. Is High Strength Loc-tite an acceptable means?

Thank in advance.

 

[96cbr900rr]

No.
Must be either Silver soldered, blind-pinned and welded ( most popular), or the device welded to the barrel...

 

[turbo89]

Thanks for the response. Do you know of any links that show the appropriate way to pin/solder a muzzle brake on?

 

[wolf223]

Thanks for the response. Do you know of any links that show the appropriate way to pin/solder a muzzle brake on?

Underwhere (NES screen name), among a few others on NES did his (their) own. a search might lead you to his thread.

i took mine to Remsport to have it done. if you have the supplies and a vice, i'd say it's a pretty easy DIY job. but i didn't have the option at the time.

good luck

 

[turbo89]

Underwhere (NES screen name), among a few others on NES did his (their) own. a search might lead you to his thread.

i took mine to Remsport to have it done. if you have the supplies and a vice, i'd say it's a pretty easy DIY job. but i didn't have the option at the time.

good luck

Thank you. I found a great link by searching his name. Here it is for reference:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782

 

[Underwhere]

It's pretty simple.
Put the brake on and clock it appropriately.
Drill a hole through the brake and into the threads, but not all the way through into the bore.
You can just take your drill bit and measure how far you'll need to go...tape up the rest. As you drill, your tape will come closer to the brake and stop when the tape hits the break.

Then put your pin in the hole and weld the pin to the brake.

 

[turbo89]

It's pretty simple.
Put the brake on and clock it appropriately.
Drill a hole through the brake and into the threads, but not all the way through into the bore.
You can just take your drill bit and measure how far you'll need to go...tape up the rest. As you drill, your tape will come closer to the brake and stop when the tape hits the break.


Then put your pin in the hole and weld the pin to the brake.

The process itself looks very simple, but I question why it needs to be welded.... Any tips on where to find touch up paint?

Thanks,
Cal

 

[wolf223]

The process itself looks very simple, but I question why it needs to be welded.... Any tips on where to find touch up paint?

Thanks,
Cal

i'm pretty sure it has to be some type of anti-seize (sp) / bluing liquid that has to be applied at the weld spot to prevent rust. as for paint? why? it's a gun!

mine isn't the pretiest by far, but the pin is located under the barrel and NOT a very high vis spot.

 

[turbo89]

You hit the nail on the head, corrosion resistance.

 

[01SVTvert]

It needs to be welded because ATF says so.... Otherwise they do not consider it "permanent"

If you do this yourself and your brake has a rounded bottom it is easier to predrill the brake on a drillpress before you screw it on. Also, you can then line up the original hole in the drill press and figure out how much deeper you need to go into the barrel without damaging it. Pretty easy to do, just remember to get some of the METAL duct tape to tape around the brake before putting the spot weld on and that will protect the barrel from spatter.

If you have a drill press and a way of holding the barrel squarely on the press this is an easy job.

 

[turbo89]

It needs to be welded because ATF says so.... Otherwise they do not consider it "permanent"

If you do this yourself and your brake has a rounded bottom it is easier to predrill the brake on a drillpress before you screw it on. Also, you can then line up the original hole in the drill press and figure out how much deeper you need to go into the barrel without damaging it. Pretty easy to do, just remember to get some of the METAL duct tape to tape around the brake before putting the spot weld on and that will protect the barrel from spatter.

If you have a drill press and a way of holding the barrel squarely on the press this is an easy job.

Thanks for the tips. I have a drill press, a vise, a welder, and lots of tape (both metallic & non). I'll buy a can of flat black grill paint and try to match the color as well.

 

[Underwhere]

i'm pretty sure it has to be some type of anti-seize (sp) / bluing liquid that has to be applied at the weld spot to prevent rust. as for paint? why? it's a gun!


mine isn't the pretiest by far, but the pin is located under the barrel and NOT a very high vis spot.

To prevent rust you basically need to coat it with something...but honestly it's a surface weld that doesn't need to go very deep. Any rust that occurs won't really do anything. And I doubt it would rust in the first place.

It needs to be welded because ATF says so.... Otherwise they do not consider it "permanent"

If you do this yourself and your brake has a rounded bottom it is easier to predrill the brake on a drillpress before you screw it on. Also, you can then line up the original hole in the drill press and figure out how much deeper you need to go into the barrel without damaging it. Pretty easy to do, just remember to get some of the METAL duct tape to tape around the brake before putting the spot weld on and that will protect the barrel from spatter.

If you have a drill press and a way of holding the barrel squarely on the press this is an easy job.

Good tips. I did the same. Pre-drilled the brake and then just pushed the drill just a tad bit further to meet the threads of the barrel.

You don't get spatter with a TIG

Thanks for the tips. I have a drill press, a vise, a welder, and lots of tape (both metallic & non). I'll buy a can of flat black grill paint and try to match the color as well.

If you have access to a TIG you wont need the tape...it'll probably be worse as you'd get a bunch of melted adhesive everywhere.

When I weld a pin I use a very small tip and i can fix it with a sharpie.

With that being said the brake I should be pinning tomorrow will be smoothed out, media blasted and Cerakoted so it matches.

 

[Remsport Mfg]

We only charge $35.00 to drill pin and weld. I use cold blue not paint to finish. This a easy job, however it can be screwed up if you drill through the barrel. I have seen this happen many times by DIY gun smiths. $35.00 is cheap to have it done correctly. We also have a number of brakes in stock.
We can also turn thread and pin and weld on barrels that are not threaded.

 

[mass]

We only charge $35.00 to drill pin and weld. I use cold blue not paint to finish. This a easy job, however it can be screwed up if you drill through thbarrel. I have seen this happen many times by DIY gun smiths. $35.00 is cheap to have it done correctly. We also have a number of brakes in stock.
We can also turn thread and pin and weld on barrels that are not threaded.

John did mine. Can't beat the price and workmanship and I had the barrel back in two days.

 

[turbo89]

We only charge $35.00 to drill pin and weld. I use cold blue not paint to finish. This a easy job, however it can be screwed up if you drill through thbarrel. I have seen this happen many times by DIY gun smiths. $35.00 is cheap to have it done correctly. We also have a number of brakes in stock.
We can also turn thread and pin and weld on barrels that are not threaded.

Thanks for the offer. $35 sounds like a great price, but you're a bit far away. I'm going to give this a try over the weekend, I'll post pics of my results.

-Cal

 

[Remsport Mfg]

We are not that far away the most 2hr away from almost anywhere in Mass and we can do this while you wait. You can even watch. You could also ship it to us, fast turn around. Besides it is always an experience to visit our shop. We are not the typical gun store. Ask anyone on the forum that has visited us.
Thanks
John
413 579 1994

 

[wolf223]

We are not that far away the most 2hr away from almost anywhere in Mass and we can do this while you wait. You can even watch. You could also ship it to us, fast turn around. Besides it is always an experience to visit our shop. We are not the typical gun store. Ask anyone on the forum that has visited us.
Thanks
John
413 579 1994

i agree with this. lots of cool stuff to meat-gaze....

however, you are in dire need of a website...

 

[jar]

Thanks for the offer. $35 sounds like a great price, but you're a bit far away. I'm going to give this a try over the weekend, I'll post pics of my results.

-Cal

Zero Hour in Easton did mine for $40. That's a lot closer to you. They don't do it while you wait though.

 

[luceri]

I just silver solder mine to ATF spec. Just a heads up if you solder it -- some Flux can discolor/remove the bluing of the rifle -- I've never had any problems with it personally but I've been told by many of this.

 

[groundscrapers]

I would bring at least $500 when you head to remsport to pin your break. You will need $35 for the pin/weld job and $465 for the rest of the stuff you are going to want to buy.

 

[turbo89]

Zero Hour in Easton did mine for $40. That's a lot closer to you. They don't do it while you wait though.

Well, It's 5 O'clock on Sunday and I haven't gotten a chance to pin my muzzle brake. Since I can't fire it until next weekend anyways, maybe I'll swing by Zero Hour after work.

 

[Remsport Mfg]

Remsport Mfg. $35.00 while you wait you can even watch.
John
413 579 1994

 

[turbo89]

Remsport Mfg. $35.00 while you wait you can even watch.
John
413 579 1994

Why aren't you closer?! I called Zero Hour, they wanted $50 and told me it would take a few days. I just ordered a AR15 Vise clamp from Midway, and I already have a pin/welder. With any hope I should have this all set by Xmas.

 

[turbo89]

Not to bring back this thread from the dead, but I'm looking for some paint to cover up the pin/weld job I did... and I don't want to bake it. Does anyone have any experience with Brownell's ALUMA-HYDE? I've seen posts on it somewhere... I just can't find them for some reason.

Link Here:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1117/Product/ALUMA_HYDE_reg__II

 

[Remsport Mfg]

Use cold blue not paint.

 

[turbo89]

Use cold blue not paint.

Is this what you're talking about?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=284241

EDIT: I did quite a bit of sanding/polishing around the accessory lug, and the muzzle brake... After doing some reading, I'm not sure cold blue is what would work best.

 

[vicpinto]

OP lives in Randolph and can take a quick 15 minute ride down RT. 24 to Zero Hour Arms. They do this type of stuff. They soldered my YHM brake for me.

 

[flintoid]

Is this what you're talking about?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=284241

EDIT: I did quite a bit of sanding/polishing around the accessory lug, and the muzzle brake... After doing some reading, I'm not sure cold blue is what would work best.

If it's bare metal, cold blue will work well with it. You first must clean it and de-grease it.

cold blue is like controlled rusting- it causes the surface of bare metal to oxidize, thus making a "layer" or "shell" over the metal that protects it from corrosion.

If you sanded/polished the steel, all you have to do now is clean it and then apply the cold blue per directions on the product. It'll be the best way to keep your rifle from rusting. Parkerizing will do the same, but that will cost you more money as you'd have someone else do this to your whole rifle. It would run you ~$150 if you go to the right guy.

Paint won't prevent rust.

 

[flintoid]

Does anyone have any experience with Brownell's ALUMA-HYDE? I've seen posts on it somewhere... I just can't find them for some reason.

Link Here:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1117/Product/ALUMA_HYDE_reg__II

Even though this shouldn't be used on your AR-15 unless it's fully parked, or unless you've treated the pin/weld job (with cold blue), I'd like to throw out there that this stuff is pure bullshit. If you like paying $20 extra for something you can get at Home Depot for $4, then by all means. But if you want something you can pick up yourself after a 5 minute ride, and it's basically the same thing (an epoxy based spray paint), get this stuff:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

(they sell it in singular cans for I think $4.50, I don't remember)

and it will look like this after baking it properly

I have seen that Aluma-hyde bullshit and it comes out exactly like the $4 rustoleum appliance epoxy. I'd do the Pepsi challenge with it any day of the week.

 

[turbo89]

Even though this shouldn't be used on your AR-15 unless it's fully parked, or unless you've treated the pin/weld job (with cold blue), I'd like to throw out there that this stuff is pure bullshit. If you like paying $20 extra for something you can get at Home Depot for $4, then by all means. But if you want something you can pick up yourself after a 5 minute ride, and it's basically the same thing (an epoxy based spray paint), get this stuff:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

(they sell it in singular cans for I think $4.50, I don't remember)

and it will look like this after baking it properly

I have seen that Aluma-hyde bullshit and it comes out exactly like the $4 rustoleum appliance epoxy. I'd do the Pepsi challenge with it any day of the week.

Thanks for the reply. because I've only polish, and removed the finish in small areas I'm wondering how well this will match.

I think I'm going to try the Birchwood Super Black Touch up paint first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take the barrel off, and pursue alternate methods.

Here's a link to the Touch Up Paint I'm talking about:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=379148