Pay someone for sight mods or just buy a sight pusher

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Looking to remove the factory front sight, and add a higher front sight to co-witness (lower third) to a red dot sight. Should I pay a gunsmith to do it, or should I buy a sight pusher and do it myself?

Sig P320 Pro Cut Slide
Leupold Delapoint Pro w/ rear adjustable sight
Dawson .400 front serrated sight
 
Depends on how many times you see yourself swapping sights over time. I personally prefer owning the tool for the job and learning how to do things, but if you only have one pistol and are only planning on swapping sights if and when they fail, then I suppose in that context getting a smith to do it might make sense. The other upshot there is that a smith is (usually) less likely to mark up the slide. I dinged up a slide on my first go with the presser. Just a tiny nick, but enough that it triggers my OCD side and is a badge of shame.

Still, if you own more than one pistol, I feel this type of tool will pay for itself in a year or two.
 
Thanks for the replies. Very helpful.

Is it true that Sig, namely the P320 sight are directional, meaning they come out / install a particular direction?
 
Just be careful, them sight pusher are rough, I got my first sight free, you know trial, see if I like it. Next thing there’s a small charge for the next sight I want. Now I’m hooked and his pushing night sight, fiber front end, ohhhh man, fiber front ends...
 
Pay someone for sight mods or just buy a sight pusher

This is a trick question...right? [wink]
 
You don’t have a brass punch and mallet?

I do. In fact Dawson precision included a punch in the package, but for some reason when I tried the sights wouldn’t budge. They are either pressed fit very tight or it is locked down with locktite. I didn’t want to damage my Pro Cut Slide. Is it worth continuing with this process? I may be doing something wrong, it seems this method isn’t new by any means.
 
Buy the sight pusher; it's a relatively inexpensive tool and it's hard to screw up using it.
If you find out that you don't like the sights you put in; change them again.

Tape the slide, I use blue painter's tape myself.
 
I do. In fact Dawson precision included a punch in the package, but for some reason when I tried the sights wouldn’t budge. They are either pressed fit very tight or it is locked down with locktite. I didn’t want to damage my Pro Cut Slide. Is it worth continuing with this process? I may be doing something wrong, it seems this method isn’t new by any means.

1. Make sure you are going in the right direction.
2. Make sure the slide is secured and not bouncing around when you hit it or you’ll lose the energy transfer.
3. Don’t be a pussy and give it some firm whacks.
4. Yes it’s tight. You don’t want it shifting on you when you shoot, right?
 

I have one of those also and it has worked in some cases. However if I had to do it again I would save my dough up and buy a MGW Sight Pro or compromise with the newer "compact" MGW Range master. With the MGW units the driving screw runs axially through the pusher block, unlike the Wheeler's pusher block which is parallel to the drive screw, bolted to a carriage, and the block flexes under anything more than moderate load.

:emoji_tiger:
 
I really appreciate the help everyone. I'm a total n00b with all this stuff, I suppose I have to start somewhere. This forum has been very helpful, one of the best forums I am part of so far. Many thanks!
 
If you’re shooting left, and he’s shooting right, it averages out so you’re both good to go.

Why do you wear three watches?

Well, this one is an hour fast, this one is an hour slow, and the one in the middle stopped at 2 o'clock.

What good is that.

I add the ones on both ends and divide by the one in the middle and I know what time it is.
 
I would save my dough up and buy a MGW Sight Pro...
i have a mgw dedicated to the glock. got it pre-owned from a member here for a reasonable price. i own several glocks and have changed out rear sights on 5 or 6...i forget, but worth it to me. i really have no need for the universal version but if i were 30 years younger i'd probably get it just because. i like the way the slide gets fixed in position to the mgw, nothing pinches/squeezes it like some other brands.
 
Whatever path decide to take I have been informed that on most Sig (P320) if not all:

Looking down the barrel, what direction to tap or push out sights:

Removal: Right to left
Install: Left to right

Certain sight manufacturers also indicate a direction indicated by an arrow for installation
 
I swapped out the front sight on my Springfield XDS. Went with a brass punch & hammer. Like allen-1 mentions, I had used blue painters tape to cover the slide. Actually a few layers. Had a bench top vise and held the slide in place. I tried to keep the brass punch as low & as close to the dovetail on the front sight as possible. Increased force with each hit until the sight started moving. Just took it slow!

Before installation of the front sight, I had measured the dovetail width and thickness & compared to the old sight. I had to take a stone and remove a couple thousandths from the bottom of the dovetail on the new sight. If you've got too much of a press, it'll never go together.

Re-install was the same. Keep the slide taped and I had taped off the front sight too, where the brass punch would contact.
 
So appreciate the help here.

I’ve also heard from others that heating up the sight with a soldering iron, melting the threadlock bond may help as well. I wonder if that presents any I’ll effects.
 
Yes rear sights on S&W M&p's need to be heated to break the red lock-tite. You can use a butane micro torch for this.

For what it may be worth, I have installed Apex kits on half a dozen M&Ps for people, which requires removing the rear sight in order to change the firing pin block. I have never encountered Locktite on the sight itself or the slide.

What I have encountered is a bit of Locktite on the sight retaining screw. I'm not inclined to take a torch to any firearm, but what I do it apply the tip of a hot soldering iron to the hex socket portion of the screw for 10-15 seconds. The screw then comes out with excessive force.
 
OP if you're planning on continuing as a pistol enthusiast just purchase an MGW sight pro. these were well north of $300 not long ago so prices are coming down. still not cheap but well worth the investment. the el cheapo sight pushers are absolute trash. it's a buy-once-cry-once proposition.

 
one advantage of a "pusher" is it's easier to dial in you sights at the range. sure wacking it with a punch & hammer works but pushing it with the tool gives more precise adjustments while zeroing. just my opinion.
 
For what it may be worth, I have installed Apex kits on half a dozen M&Ps for people, which requires removing the rear sight in order to change the firing pin block. I have never encountered Locktite on the sight itself or the slide.

What I have encountered is a bit of Locktite on the sight retaining screw. I'm not inclined to take a torch to any firearm, but what I do it apply the tip of a hot soldering iron to the hex socket portion of the screw for 10-15 seconds. The screw then comes out with excessive force.
Yes sorry I meant the screw that holds the rear sight in.
 
Emery paper and a flat surface is all you need to gently remove material from the sight. Remove enough until it almost fits the dovetail then tap it in with a delrin or brass punch. The fitting is the important step, how you press or tap it in isn't as important.
 
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