Oxpho gun bluing for Henry rifle

VetteGirlMA

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So my Henry rifle that I absolutely love is developing a rust problem on the barrel. My understanding from doing a little research is that this is a known Henry problem. The interesting thing is that the Henry and my AR are stored together and kept with moisture absorber. The AR is just fine but the Henry gets the rust. So my question is has anyone done their own bluing like Oxpho on a rifle barrel? Do I just apply over the rusted area once I remove the rust from the barrel? Or is it better to just have a professional work on it and get it back to A1 condition?
 
How bad is it?
If it just a light only surface rust.
Some have said go lightly with fine copper type steel wool and with something like Breakfree on it works for lighter surface rust.
Amazon product ASIN B079YBDYYFView: https://www.amazon.com/Rogue-River-Tools-Bronze-Wool/dp/B079YBDYYF/ref=sr_1_36?dchild=1&keywords=copper%2Bwool&qid=1594646582&sr=8-36&th=1


Be careful with any over the counter bluing. Not only will you have a rusted firearm, but the bluing will look awful when done.
My advice is to call Henry and see what the have to say.

If it's bad, then see if Henry offers a reblue service.

I use Eezox or Breakfree Collector on my blued guns before storage.
 

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Wonder if a coat of say NuFinish or something similar. would help prevent rust. If I had one of their brass frame rifles that's the first thing I'd do to protect the brass finish.
 
IIRC, before you apply the bluing solution (whatever you end up with since they all react a bit different to even the same metals) you need to get the surface pristine. Otherwise, all flaws will show through the finish that gets applied. It's not like when you apply Cerakote, which requires the surface be media blasted (to etch) in preparation of getting it applied.

I would research to find out which solution will give you a matching finish on the barrel. If you don't care if it matches, and want something that will last longer, look at getting Cerakote applied to the barrel. If you want it to look like it does now, then you'll need to do your research and get the area properly prepared.
 
Just throwing this out there...not to say this is your issue, but when's the last time you changed out your desiccant? Passive packs are finite and can hit a maximum absorption state if you're in a humid area. Most packs suggest a 12 month cycle for maximum performance.
 
Is this issue with newer Henry rifles? I have never had a problem always wipe mine down with oil and rag before goes in safe have had this rifle for 20 years
 
Dicropan is better for touch ups , oxpho is good if the metal is bare. Dicropan pan will touch up even if the surface has oil on it. I've been collecting for 50 yrs the best protectant I've used is Renaissance wax that's what they use in museum's very easy to use and protects better than oil.
 
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I've used Oxpho to blue a non-stainless barrel's re-crown that was left unblued. Diggie's note about whether you want perfect matching or not is important, especially as it sounds like the Henry may have a pretty weak blue to start with. You definitely want to clean and degrease, but you can do all the "cleaning" with 0 steel wool since the first application of Oxpho will also get rid of any surface rust - so I disagree on needing things "pristine." Use the same steel wool for each application, which will also remove any last bits, and you should expect to do several applications. I have a crapton of 2/0 steel wool left from various projects that I can mail or whatever if you don't want to source it. Not like it costs much. Anyhow, it works, and a deep blue that really resists rust can be achieved.
 
Just throwing this out there...not to say this is your issue, but when's the last time you changed out your desiccant? Passive packs are finite and can hit a maximum absorption state if you're in a humid area. Most packs suggest a 12 month cycle for maximum performance.

I'm going to replace it now.
 
I did a whole rifle with Oxpho Blue, it was almost completely bare. I love the stuff. I've used Birchwood Casey's also, but the Oxpho Blue was easier to not screw up. If I remember right, the Oxpho Blue was a darker blue, almost black.


I'm assuming that I am just treating the areas where the rust was? Or does one normally do the entire barrel over again? I'm worried about the work being obvious and amateur-ish when I'm done.
 
So my Henry rifle that I absolutely love is developing a rust problem on the barrel. My understanding from doing a little research is that this is a known Henry problem. The interesting thing is that the Henry and my AR are stored together and kept with moisture absorber. The AR is just fine but the Henry gets the rust. So my question is has anyone done their own bluing like Oxpho on a rifle barrel? Do I just apply over the rusted area once I remove the rust from the barrel? Or is it better to just have a professional work on it and get it back to A1 condition?

Desiccant is okay to use, but you need to remember to change or regenerate it. You're better off using a Goldenrod that keeps the inside of the safe a few degrees warmer than the ambient outdoor air around the safe. The warmer air forces the moisture out of the safe, which keeps it dry inside the safe. The Goldenrod also controls temperature changes that cause rust. I've used them in my safes for 20+ years and don't have a hint of rust on or in any of my firearms.

 
Like Golddiggie said, the trick is to remove every single speck of rust and make sure the metal is free of any oils or contaminants including fingerprints. Use rubber gloves for the last stage of cleaning. Rubbing alcohol will usually do the trick as a final cleaner.
As to doing just the rust spot or the whole barrel , it depends on how particular you are about the looks ,
Chances are it won't be an exact match with what's there now.
It can be a fun project , but i wouldn't try it on a favorite gun that your fussy about the looks of for the first time.

I did a couple for a friend that laid in the snow all winter when the roof of his camp collapsed .
There was a whole lot of emery cloth involved and much patience , but they didn't come out half bad considering.
If you want to go the pro route
gun restoration|rust bluing|gun maintenance|gunsmithing in Natick
This guy does sweet work.
 
I would give a call to Henry. They have some of the best customer service out there. I know, they did me right last year, no questions asked. They will tell you how to properly care for it, but do not be surprised if they just say, "send it in".
 
I would recommend 19 charlie tactical in texas. He hot blued another of my mausers and turned it into a sniper mauser as well. Did a really good job
 
I'm assuming that I am just treating the areas where the rust was? Or does one normally do the entire barrel over again? I'm worried about the work being obvious and amateur-ish when I'm done.

I touched up a winchester 92 with it and you cannot find where I did it. Again, the color is dark blue, almost black. Not sure how your Henry looks.
 
So my Henry rifle that I absolutely love is developing a rust problem on the barrel. My understanding from doing a little research is that this is a known Henry problem. The interesting thing is that the Henry and my AR are stored together and kept with moisture absorber. The AR is just fine but the Henry gets the rust. So my question is has anyone done their own bluing like Oxpho on a rifle barrel? Do I just apply over the rusted area once I remove the rust from the barrel? Or is it better to just have a professional work on it and get it back to A1 condition?
the rusting is all related to the alloy. Some steel will just rust more , be it blued or parked.
Better rust preventive measures like some VCI in your gun storage area goes a long way. Plus be more aware of wiping where you touch the barrels on the the henry.
 
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