Over-Gassed AR10

mannydog

mannydog

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Greetings,

I just assembled an AR10. I got a new complete Aero upper and mated that with a lower that I’d previously acquired.

All is good.

I mounted an Aimpoint on it and took it out to set zero. Everything’s fine, no issues except the brass is getting mangled. There’s a dimple in the brass from the ejector and a sharp burr around part of that. I shot factory ammo first time out but, going forward, it will be primarily reloads.

My first thought is that it’s over-gassed. The existing, stock, gas block is not adjustable.

So what would you do to address this?

Thank you,

mannydog

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Marty McFly said:
Where is the brass being tosses? 2 oclock?o'clock?
What's the buffer weight
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I don't know where the brass was going. We had a hurricane down here and the range is flooded so I took it to an indoor range. The wall to my spot is about 16 inches away so I couldn't really tell. Buffer weight, I do not know. Thanks for your reply.
 
mannydog said:
I don't know where the brass was going. We had a hurricane down here and the range is flooded so I took it to an indoor range. The wall to my spot is about 16 inches away so I couldn't really tell. Buffer weight, I do not know. Thanks for your reply.
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Does the recoil feel like a lot? Do you have experience with other ar10s?
 
Marty McFly said:
Heavier
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Wouldn't that damage to the brass be caused by the bolt not going all the way back?

I had so many problems with my AR10 everything is a blur, I did have mangled brass problems and I could have sworn I went from an H2 to an H1 and a Tubbs spring.

Finally got it shooting right and I haven't shot it since lol
 
xtry51 said:
It is 100% worth getting a nice adjustable gas block for an AR10. I wouldn't mess around with different weights personally.

Also my AR10 ejects brass forward at 2 o'clock FYI even when undergassed. The brass just bounces differently than AR15s.
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100% the right way to fix it is gas block

He said aero build. My experience with aero is 3 o'clock is still the normal gas situation. I suppose results may vary
 
FalArAk said:
I want to get a toothpick and clean the dirt from under your thumb nail for some reason.

Try a lighter buffer.
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My wife saw the picture after I posted and said the same and added that I need some moisturizer too.

I'm not real familiar with this platform. I'm not going to be shooting that same factory ammo much, wondering if there's that much of a difference in pressures. So do I work up and settle on a load that works and then get a buffer for that load that doesn't abuse the brass as much?

Thanks
 
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I have a slr rifleworks adjustable gas block and can say with 110% certainly it takes all the guess work out of getting an ar10 running. Close gas block off and keep putting mags in it with 1 round each. After each round/mag keep adding gas until the bolt locks back on the empty mag. I have mine tuned to shitty Tula ammo. It runs perfectly. 10.5" ar10 sbr. It's a hoot.
 
Lxpony said:
I have a slr rifleworks adjustable gas block and can say with 110% certainly it takes all the guess work out of getting an ar10 running. Close gas block off and keep putting mags in it with 1 round each. After each round/mag keep adding gas until the bolt locks back on the empty mag. I have mine tuned to shitty Tula ammo. It runs perfectly. 10.5" ar10 sbr. It's a hoot.
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Damn, you all are awesome and I appreciate the schooling, I'm thinking maybe this is the way to go.

mannydog
 
Marty McFly said:
What's the buffer weight
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and spring

Lxpony said:
I have a slr rifleworks adjustable gas block and can say with 110% certainly it takes all the guess work out of getting an ar10 running. Close gas block off and keep putting mags in it with 1 round each. After each round/mag keep adding gas until the bolt locks back on the empty mag. I have mine tuned to shitty Tula ammo. It runs perfectly. 10.5" ar10 sbr. It's a hoot.
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great idea. i have an adams arms piston i never fully got to run right. to much gas, seems hot.
start low work your way high.
i'll do the same with the buffer weights/springs,
 
If you’re doing reloads just under power them to the point, they function and it’ll solve your problem

It’s always what I’ve done and it’ll decrease overall wear but I know how much you shoot for real

And you could eventually find a load that’s accurate at that pressure point

I was reusing my brass over 30 times and I continue to use it and I’m only had one case separation out of quarter million rounds

Out of an AR 15 you’ll be fine but for example, an HK 91 destroys brass
 
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MGnoob said:
If you’re doing reloads just under power them to the point, they function and it’ll solve your problem

It’s always what I’ve done and it’ll decrease overall wear but I know how much you shoot for real

And you could eventually find a load that’s accurate at that pressure point

I was reusing my brass over 30 times and I continue to use it and I’m only had one case separation out of quarter million rounds

Out of an AR 15 you’ll be fine but for example, an HK 91 destroys brass
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Makes perfect sense. Thanks.

I came into a large amount of mixed .308 and 7.62x51 ammo. I'm going to want to shoot that, without damaging the brass much, so that I can reload it.

With the multiple variables involved, I'm thinking go with a new variable gas block, dial that in to be easier on the factory brass, and then work up loads from there.
 
You’re firing pin is absolutely crushing those primers too.. not necessarily a bad thing until you try to decap them.. it wears out the primer pockets quicker, which is pretty much the reason I throw a brass or if somehow I press two or primer are there by mistake.


Not sure how involved you get in this, but I anneal cases every time I fire… that’s why I get away with with reusing them forever… also be sure to trim them because they grow..

All my stuff mixed matched…. The more you use them the more accurate they.
mannydog said:
Makes perfect sense. Thanks.

I came into a large amount of mixed .308 and 7.62x51 ammo. I'm going to want to shoot that, without damaging the brass much, so that I can reload it.

With the multiple variables involved, I'm thinking go with a new variable gas block, dial that in to be easier on the factory brass, and then work up loads from there.
Click to expand...


I also prefer stainless steel pins for cleaning them up. I hate the walnut and corn cob.
 
MGnoob said:
If you’re doing reloads just under power them to the point, they function and it’ll solve your problem

It’s always what I’ve done and it’ll decrease overall wear but I know how much you shoot for real

And you could eventually find a load that’s accurate at that pressure point

I was reusing my brass over 30 times and I continue to use it and I’m only had one case separation out of quarter million rounds

Out of an AR 15 you’ll be fine but for example, an HK 91 destroys brass
Click to expand...
My HK91 made it easy to clean up after the range. It sent the brass 30 ft down range. No brass to police.
 
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