Our Oil Burner (home) Motor Problem (video) .. Any "experts" here?

[GlockJock]

Oil Burner delivering heat ok, but motor is making these noises (video) and seems to be clicking "on and off" similar to a bad compressor on an air conditioner would .. Any pros here (before we "call the guy and dish out possibly big $$$)

As always, we thank you in advance, all and Happy Holidays to everyone

 

[StevieP]

substitute "home heating technician" for "Auto Repair."

 

[Asaltweapon]

There are a ton of wires under there and it sounds like a loose connection. I AM NOT A BOILER TECH.

Its delivering heat ok, FOR NOW.

 

[zboys]

Its the honeywell primary control $100. +- plus an hours labor.
Id wait it out till tomorrow but call your guy tonight to set up the appt.

 

[Orion2k]

It didn't sound like it was firing just the motor running. Could be the transformer arching and not providing a spark to ignite the oil. Possibly a bad transformer.

 

[drgrant]

I doubt that it's going to be a stupid expensive repair if you get an honest guy. The thermal stress of whats going on there though is the "this is going to burn things out" . Last thing you want is a fire or some
shit. Or to lose heat entirely.

Is that noise coming from the aquastat (likely external gray box with a controller in it, attached to the furnace that goes to the burner) or from the burner itself?

-Mike

 

[wilco_99]

Too easy!! The plastic motor/pump coupling is worn out and slipping.

 

[yanici]

Gonna be very cold tonight. I know what I would do and the phone would already be in my hands.

 

[wilco_99]

I think HD sells the kits....cant imagine it anymore than $10-12. Cut to length and put the proper end caps on and your good to go

 

[W.E.C]

Coupling shaft could be stripped..


View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=a705QrgokLA

 

[W.E.C]

I think HD sells the kits....cant imagine it anymore than $10-12. Cut to length and put the proper end caps on and your good to goView attachment 258844

Beat me to it!

 

[josie wales]

Too easy!! The plastic motor/pump coupling is worn out and slipping.

Yep could be the universal...but my money is on
#1 filter
#2 nozzle
#3 points
#4 pump filter (it is inside the pump housing)
#5 Honeywell Controller

 

[wilco_99]

Forget what I posted.....after listening to it again its something else....

 

[richc]

flux capacitor is gone.

 

[wilco_99]

I cant tell if the motors losing power or if the flames just going out...? If just the flames going out its the coupling. If the motors cycling on/off jump out the TT terminals on the controller and see what it does..

 

[qqac]

I've had that plastic coupling break. The combustion went all to hell, the damper started rattling like crazy, and black smoke started pouring out of the furnace.

 

[mgrick02]

Not a coupling, primary control or loose wire. Burner is loosing power intermittently. Clicking could be relay in primary control. You must still have a flame if your not resetting the control.

 

[wilco_99]

It looks like an old "G"control...that wont go into lockout for 45seconds with no flame. Either the controller itself is bad or its losing the call for heat from the aquastat or t-stat.

 

[Coyote33]

I had a problem 8 years ago.
quick: need help: Primary oil burner controller

I think the top (black box) looked like yours before replacing it. Now, it looks smaller and more "modern". I think it has a couple LED lights.

 

[Franko]

I have an identical Beckett burner you can have. Had the burner replaced then a few years later the boiler cracked, it was about 50 years old I took it off and saved it but I'll never use it. It ran excellent before removed. Only had 4 or 5 seasons on it. If you need it, take a ride out to Gloucester and its yours.

 

[yanquidog]

Its the honeywell primary control $100. +- plus an hours labor.
Id wait it out till tomorrow but call your guy tonight to set up the appt.

What z said
If your comfy, you could shut the switch off and unscrew the Honeywell control from the box and see if a wires are seated properly in the wire nuts.
Same with connections under the transformer( black box on top of burner). 2screws, lift it up and check the connections.
If you do the transformer , make sure you tuck the wires nicely into the little hole in the back of burner housing.. don’t pinch them when you close it back up

May be you ge lucky

 

[Lip]

Flip the center doohickey over push both springs to reset whilst firing. ........ get a pro you could be filling your chamber with oil.

 

[Uzi2]

There is an optical flame sensor (electric eye) under the transformer. Shut off the service switch, remove screw holding transformer and hinge it open. Clean the lens on the eye. While you have the transformer hinged open, check the contact surfaces of the two flat spring contacts against the ignitor rods.

Burners are not hard to service, but if you are intimidated by it, call a service tech, its not that expensive. Filter on tank, filter on pump, new nozzle, ignitor rods, and a good cleaning.

 

[Lip]

There is an optical flame sensor (electric eye) under the transformer. Shut off the service switch, remove screw holding transformer and hinge it open. Clean the lens on the eye. While you have the transformer hinged open, check the contact surfaces of the two flat spring contacts against the ignitor rods.

Burners are not hard to service, but if you are intimidated by it, call a service tech, its not that expensive. Filter on tank, filter on pump, new nozzle, ignitor rods, and a good cleaning.

Mind the gap

 

[TY43215]

Replace the control. R8184G 4009 Should stop the issue. You can hear it dropping out. If it was the pump coupler the motor would continue to run but the flame would drop out.

When you change the control, change one wire or set of wires at a time to prevent screwing it up

 

[Coyote33]

Just took photos.

Mine has a "new" (under 10 years) Honeywell R7184A Interrupted Ignition Oil Primary Control on the top of the motor (left side thing). On the right of that is another newish Beckett Electronic Ignitor 51771U / 51824U. Both of these were replaced a few years ago within a short time of one another.

Not sure if the R8184G is the newer or corresponding part to my R7184A. TY43215 is a heating guy, I'm just passing on my info to you. Hope you get your heat working today.

 

[Paul455]

Screw with heat source in the summer....call a pro in the winter.

 

[Coyote33]

Hey @GlockJock , how did you make out with your problem? What was it?

 

[Machines]

I had a control like that fail in the middle of the night when I was taking a late shower. Ran downstairs naked and covered in soap (why yes ladies, I am single) and resoldered the points where the relay was connected to the circuit board inside the control box. Wouldn't be surprised if something like that happened to the OP

A few years later something else in the control died and I just replaced the box. Swapping the box out takes a screwdriver and about 15 minutes if you're comfortable with wires. Don't forget to shut off the power.

 

[Dennis in MA]

Hope you were careful to not drip solder on your soldier.