Old long guns in need of serious cleaning! Update!!!

[Dream to Dream]

Update, 2/10:

The blued shotgun was easy enough to fix. 000 steel wool and gun oil as many recommended took care of the rust spots, and a bit of blue touch-up is preserving the metal nicely.

However, the old Remington side by side 12-gauge is proving more difficult. The barrel is unblued (looks like plain old carbon steel... don't think it's Damascus) and has some impressive rust build-up. How should this be removed, and how should I treat the finish afterwards?

Original post:

Howdy,

I was fortunate enough to "inherit" a couple old shotguns from an acquaintance. Unfortunately, they've been stored in a damp basement for some time and have some rust on the barrels and a good deal of mildew on the stocks.

Suggestions as to the best way to clean them up myself?

Also, there were some old leather slings in with the guns that are in pretty rough shape... very hard, musty, and a great deal of surface mildew or mold. Is there any hope of salvaging them, and would it be worth the effort involved?

Thanks!

 

[MadHatterPDC]

I have also recently inherited a shotgun with a rusty barrel (surface). I had planned on taking it to a smith and having it reblued, as it was my dad's and was the very first gun I ever shot. I am sure there are other options, so I have subscribed to this thread to see what others have to say.

In terms of leather treatment, horse people (as in people that ride horses, not Centaurs) are obsessed with leather, so try a search on any equestrian forum and I bet you'll be flooded with suggestions.

 

[IPSC_DRL]

Start with some Murphy's oil soap on the stocks, a light oil and 000 steel wool on the metal, (go easy) and neatsfoot oil on the leather.

Good luck.

 

[mac1911]

for a first general cleaning....any mild soap. Murphys,simple green, dish soap. Should get the general grim off. Clean,dry,oil
I have 2 of my dads 1st shotguns 311 20g and 311 12g both have seen the fields on a regular basis until the late 80s then sat for a long time. I cleaned them up and left them as they where. Functional,worn from real use and memories..I personally would not refinish unless really bad.

 

[USMA-82]

Start with some Murphy's oil soap on the stocks, a light oil and 000 steel wool on the metal, (go easy) and neatsfoot oil on the leather.

Good luck.

I agree with this, except go with 0000 steel wool (instead of 000) - a finer grade - and finish up the leather with a good preservative like Pecards for antique leather.

Good luck!

*

 

[timbo]

+1 on Pecards...great stuff

 

[Dream to Dream]

...finish up the leather with a good preservative like Pecards for antique leather.

+1 on Pecards...great stuff

Will Pecards revive rock-solid hard leather as well as remove mildew? The slings (as well as a couple old pistol holsters) are in really rough shape cosmetically. However, if I can soften the leather to the point that it is useable and remove the musty stink, I'd be happy to use them.

 

[USMA-82]

The leather still needs to be cleaned before applying the preservative, using saddle soap or other such cleaner. Pecards won't bring leather back from the dead, but it will help to keep it from getting any worse.

 

[Dream to Dream]

In terms of leather treatment, horse people (as in people that ride horses, not Centaurs)...

I missed that the first time I read the comment.

 

[Dream to Dream]

Start with some Murphy's oil soap on the stocks, a light oil and 000 steel wool on the metal, (go easy) and neatsfoot oil on the leather.

Good luck.

Finished some work on the first gun. Looks like the rust is gone, but some "spotting" remains in it's place. I tried to make sure I didn't overdo it on the rust removal, so it is possible that some trace of rust remains.

Should the finish on the gun be more or less perfect after rust removal, or is some touch-up to the bluing usually necessary?

 

[USMA-82]

Well, the finish can never really be "perfect" after rust removal. Damage has been done, and all you can do is prevent more of the metal being destroyed. At this point, you have to decide if you want to "touch up the bluing" to make it "prettier" or leave it as is, retaining character and collector value. Your gun, the choice is yours.

 

[Garys]

I've had good luck with Orange Glo on older stocks, although it does contain some sort of polish. Depending on what the original finish was, you can use Tung oil or Boiled Lindseed Oil. Of the two, BLO is easier to get. Just be sure to use it in a well ventilated area and be careful disposing of any rags you use as spontaneous combustion is possible with that. Any light oil and as others have said #0000 steel wool for the metal parts. If you strip it down and the internals need cleaning you can use Simple Green, but be sure to dry and oil it after as Simple Green is water based and can promote rust if the metal is not properly treated afterward.

 

[Dream to Dream]

Bumped with an update. Any advice?

 

[Sprocket]

Post model info on the Remy if you don't know year of mfgr - they did make some Damascus tubes, they will not have an applied finish. What's the goal here? To have them be functional and firing or just wall hangers?

 

[Dream to Dream]

Post model info on the Remy if you don't know year of mfgr - they did make some Damascus tubes, they will not have an applied finish. What's the goal here? To have them be functional and firing or just wall hangers?

I don't have the serial number handy to confirm details, but I'm fairly sure the Remington is a Model 1900 with a "Remington steel" non-Damascus barrel. I'll update with confirmation, when available.

I'd like to make it functional with light use, possibly with reduced loads, and to restore the barrel enough that it looks decent. It's an attractive shotgun and I hate to see so much rust on it. I'm not too concerned about collector's value... looks like these 1900s pull about $300-400, tops.

 

[Sprocket]

OK I'm gonna recommend you get a pro to check it out - Mike Orlen can check the barrels, he may even look at the whole gun. Keep searching for rust removal options, you may even want to strip it down to the "white" and re-blue it.

IIRC Greg Derr did some resto work on a 1911, he might help you with your project

If you can post pics - especially before/after shots