Oil question for new engine

Radtekk

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Had the engine replaced on my truck. Remanufactured 5.7 liter gm. First oil change is due. Should I use synthetic or petroleum based? I like the benefits of synthetic, been using it for years in motorcycles, just wondering if the 5.7l gm motor would "like" it.

Thanks in advance:)
 

PaulR

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I always use a syn-blend, or mix the syn with the dino oil.
What's more important I think is to make sure you use the prescribed viscosity.
Back in 05 when my F-150 was new, old Ford owners scoffed at the 5w-20 spec oil, they ended up having lots of problems.
7-8k changes for syn.
4-5k changes for dino.
 

W.E.C

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Gm 5.7 likes mobil 1 full syn. Every 5k max. Screw obama epa regs, stretching out oil changes to 7 up to 10k,
Ford vvt cam phasers
like the extra grip of dyno blend.

Wally world has the best price $25 for 5 quart jug, pretty sure 5.7 takes 6 with filter, buy 2 jugs, and save on the next 5 oil changes.
 
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bfm

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When I finally let my Audi go it had 220k on it and the engine was in great shape. 4 cylinder turbo that I revved the snot out of and drove like I stole it from day one.

Changed to synthetic the day I picked it up and other than the next oil change that was at the break in recommended 1k miles I changed it every 10k for the 17 years I had it. it lived out side in MA for the whole time. Saw a good number of negative number degree mornings.
 

grizquad

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When I used to drive a lot, I fitted my truck with Amzoil by pass filter and used the Amzoil. Yes it was a bit more expensive, but I changed oil once a year and with oil analysis found it to be just fine and probably could have gone longer. Now in retirement, I don't drive much especially in the winter and get the bulk oil (think its 5w-20) on my oil change at Toyota. So if you drive a lot, and don't mind the cost, I would go with synthetic
 

bfm

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With full synthetic, unless you are running under really heavy conditions, like towing 3-4 tons all day every day, going 10k miles between changes is not going to do anything to put your engine at risk. As long as you are using a quality filter. the only real problem Mobil had with their 20k mile oil change was nothing to do with the oil but the fact that most filters had a life that would not go past 15k.

 

TrashcanDan

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Had the engine replaced on my truck. Remanufactured 5.7 liter gm. First oil change is due. Should I use synthetic or petroleum based? I like the benefits of synthetic, been using it for years in motorcycles, just wondering if the 5.7l gm motor would "like" it.

Thanks in advance:)
If its a re-man, there should have been some kind of booklet that came with it. It'll say in there what to use ,break-in period, all that stuff.
 

Uzi2

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I'd ask the people who are warranting the new engine. It will be THEIR determination if something goes wrong with their product within the time frame specified in the warranty.
If you vary from their recommendation or requirements, you may void their coverage.
 
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Radtekk

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Appreciate the responses and case studies:) I'm probably going to go synthetic, likely Mobil 1. I'm in Tennessee, so "cold" is mid 20's for a few hours, hardly arctic conditions. No salt, but a lot of dirt. Full size GMC truck but rarely hailing a load more than a couple hundred pounds in the bed, the bike and trailer total 1100 or so maybe twice a year. So not heavy duty use.

Mostly I want to make the engine last, the truck is essentially rust free. My basic concern was/is has the oil quality outstripped the engine, will it actually work, am I wasting money kinda stuff. I'm long since sold on synthetic advantages, just want to make sure they'll apply in this particular application.

Another question... Thoughts on replacing the drain plug with a magnetic one? Just put a heavy rare earth on on it? Fools gold or the real deal?
 

Woodstock

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I had several GM trucks with the 5.7 engine and tried to run synthetic, as I was running a lot of hard miles. Every one of them needed a quart or more before 3000 miles. I switched back to quality dino oil and filters and never had to add oil again. The trucks all went well over 100,000 miles with no engine problems. My non-scientific opinion is that the syn oil was passing the rings and other components while the dino stuff was slightly thicker. I use synthetic in all the small engine equipment, including a 23=year old John Deere garden tractor that I beat like a rented mule, winter and summer.
 

snax

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Anybody watch the Project farm guy on YouTube? He did an oil championship. More importantly, he sent samples out for lab testing. You're basically fine with any synthetic. Even the walmart supertech or Amazon basics.
 

67ray

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Another question... Thoughts on replacing the drain plug with a magnetic one? Just put a heavy rare earth on on it? Fools gold or the real deal?
Not fools gold. It will collect metal shavings from your engine. Some is normal but a lot will tell you something. Watch it over time and if you see a marked increase you know you have a problem.

Of course it will not collect aluminum shavings but if you look you can see them in the oil drain pan.

Also in a new engine cut open the oil filter with a hacksaw. Look in the folds of the paper to see if there is any material such as from a bearing. After break in oil change there should be nothing in there.
 

rep308

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Anybody watch the Project farm guy on YouTube? He did an oil championship. More importantly, he sent samples out for lab testing. You're basically fine with any synthetic. Even the walmart supertech or Amazon basics.
I've used Blackstone labs on both my cars. When my Pilot turned 200K mi and needed a couple of grand in repairs, I sent oil out for analysis just to make sure the engine was solid.

When Jiffy Lube mis-installed the oil filter in my wife's RAV4 and it ran out of oil,:eek:, I sent the oil from the next change out to check as well. Cheap money.
 

Jason m

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I would just use some good 10w40, my 350 ran on that for close to 100K and what the owner used before I got I have no clue. It didn't live an easy life with me, it plowed, towed and pulled a lot of wood. Never felt I was abusing it with just normal 10w40. Its an old school motor, not saying the newer oil is not up to the task just the motor was designed on a 40 weight oil.
 

BlackwaterFence

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I use Mobil 1 when I change my oil. In the winter when I don't want to crawl under the truck, our family mechanic does it. He prefers synthetic blend and says it's less money and better quality. Engines these days run 200k easy so I can't see getting much better than that. I buy it at Wally World three five gallon jugs at a time (usually change both trucks while I have the ramps out) so it's pretty cheap imho
 
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I would just use some good 10w40, my 350 ran on that for close to 100K and what the owner used before I got I have no clue. It didn't live an easy life with me, it plowed, towed and pulled a lot of wood. Never felt I was abusing it with just normal 10w40. Its an old school motor, not saying the newer oil is not up to the task just the motor was designed on a 40 weight oil.
One thing to keep in mind is the tolerances on the newer motors. There is a reason a 5.0 is putting out 400 hp compared to 180 back in the day.
 

Daddy Mac

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Lots of good information here. I think the important thing is that you're on top of it. Maintain the proper oil level, change it when it needs it and you should be just fine.
 

Radtekk

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I use Mobil 1 when I change my oil. In the winter when I don't want to crawl under the truck, our family mechanic does it. He prefers synthetic blend and says it's less money and better quality. Engines these days run 200k easy so I can't see getting much better than that. I buy it at Wally World three five gallon jugs at a time (usually change both trucks while I have the ramps out) so it's pretty cheap imho
Sounds like the way I'm leaning. Bought Lady Radtekk a 2004 2wd Dodge truck, v6 (3.7l? Not sure atm) so they'll both need changes anyway. I think I'll keep hers on Dino oil, start mine on Mobil 1. Doing them both the same time makes it easier. Buy a case of filters for each and throw them up on the shelf.

Regarding the documentation mentioned by others earlier, all the shop told me (Tennessee is NOT MA) was "It's got a 3yr unlimited mile warranty." and wrote that on the receipt. I'll just do oil changes and save receipts :) As has been said, it's a pretty basic motor, been around a while.
 

Radtekk

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Next question.... Factory vs aftermarket filters? It's been a while (like 15 years) since I had a place to do my own work, I'm sure things have changed, and I haven't owned a domestic vehicle in about the same time frame.
 

Uzi2

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Next question.... Factory vs aftermarket filters? It's been a while (like 15 years) since I had a place to do my own work, I'm sure things have changed, and I haven't owned a domestic vehicle in about the same time frame.
Check youtube for filter comparisons.......very enlightening.
 

mjbitt

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OK don't laugh, I have been using Mobil 1 full synthetic for years up till a few years ago . Since then all I have been using is Amazon, yes Amazon synthetic oils and been more than happy it. check it out made by Warren oil co. and half the price of Mobil 1
 
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