New Safe going in, need accessory advice

I'll bolt it, cheap insurance for not too much work, and I have a hammer drill already.
Interesting idea on the PVC, the rubber mat sounds good too. 2x4: I'm thinking too much leverage to gain if someone wants to attempt to pry it up and out.
Yes, I know, I'm overthinking.
 
My safes have never been bolted down. Watching the movers struggle with one that was empty says to me two meth fired shitheads ain’t taking it anywhere.
It took 3 dudes, a refrigerator dolly, motorcycle ramps, and a Jeep with a tow strap to move my safe.

If I catch a couple of meth heads successfully doing this I am hiring them.

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My safes have never been bolted down. Watching the movers struggle with one that was empty says to me two meth fired shitheads ain’t taking it anywhere.

Statistically speaking a safe laying down after being knocked over is much easier to break into then one bolted to the floor and standing upright. Something about leverage used to pry the safe open.
 
It took 3 dudes, a refrigerator dolly, motorcycle ramps, and a Jeep with a tow strap to move my safe.

If I catch a couple of meth heads successfully doing this I am hiring them.

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Years ago a friend was having an opening event at his crossfit gym. He had a 3/8" thick plate steel sign rested against a tractor tire. Someone asked him if he should lock them to the building.
"If someone can pick up and run off with either of those, not only can they keep it - I'd hire him."
 
Golden Rod is pretty cheap insurance. I wouldn’t leave my stuff to just a basement dehumidifier and occasionally wipedown.

But if in doubt get a hygrometer and measure.
There is no doubt that there is no rust on any of my firearms in 40 years with my storage procedures. Im sure its overly humid sometimes in the summer when the dehumidifier fills, and dry as a popcorn fart in the winter with the wood stove running down there. But overall, never had any issues. Like I said, wiped down at least quarterly, if not more because they are either used or moved to make room, or pulled out to get something. If I have to get to the back, everything i pull out generally gets a quick wipe down if I have the time.

But, i'm not gonna argue with anyone that takes extra precautions like a golden rod, or extra dehumidification either.........just havent' found I needed to use it.

All my safes are bolted down, into walls and floors.
 
If you are storing handguns long term, it can help to remove the grips before wiping the gun down with oil for storage. Leaving grips on can create a refuge for lack of finish protection and even moisture.
 
Mine are not bolted down either. They are so heavy it would take 5 people to move it.
I used to think that until I saw mine be delivered....one guy with super duper pneumatic two wheeler/dolly contraption whipped it around like it was nothing. Pretty sure it's 1000+ lbs. Asked me if I wanted it lagged into concrete floor.....Yes Please.
 
I used to think that until I saw mine be delivered....one guy with super duper pneumatic two wheeler/dolly contraption whipped it around like it was nothing. Pretty sure it's 1000+ lbs. Asked me if I wanted it lagged into concrete floor.....Yes Please.
Wild it be that easy to move full to the brim with long guns plus about 5k rounds of ammo?
 
Wild it be that easy to move full to the brim with long guns plus about 5k rounds of ammo?

Say average 8 pounds per rifle, 12 grams per cartridge: 20 rifles is 160 pounds, only 5k rounds is 132 pounds (60000 grams), that's +292 pounds. Motorized dollies should be good for 1000 pounds. If the single dolly in question tossed around the safe, then yeah, just as easy to move.

If someone is coming prepared with thousands of dollars in moving equipment, anything not bolted down or down a flight of stairs is manageable. Your threat assessment is your own business, but I'd only consider something secured by its own weight when north of 600 pounds (of course, someone making off with this would need a lift gate on their truck, not some crappy uhaul box truck).

It's more likely two guys can get a dolly under a safe that's not bolted down to move it to a place where they can get an angle for cutting off the door or prying it open.
 
Say average 8 pounds per rifle, 12 grams per cartridge: 20 rifles is 160 pounds, only 5k rounds is 132 pounds (60000 grams), that's +292 pounds. Motorized dollies should be good for 1000 pounds. If the single dolly in question tossed around the safe, then yeah, just as easy to move.

If someone is coming prepared with thousands of dollars in moving equipment, anything not bolted down or down a flight of stairs is manageable. Your threat assessment is your own business, but I'd only consider something secured by its own weight when north of 600 pounds (of course, someone making off with this would need a lift gate on their truck, not some crappy uhaul box truck).

It's more likely two guys can get a dolly under a safe that's not bolted down to move it to a place where they can get an angle for cutting off the door or prying it open.
All it takes is an angle grinder and, possibly an extension cord, and time unless you have a "real safe" (TL15 or better).
 
All it takes is an angle grinder and, possibly an extension cord, and time unless you have a "real safe" (TL15 or better).
Yep. Even then, it's just time. The way I see it, if you've forced a thief/adversary to attack a safe where you've placed it, you've done the best you can.
 
I stacked 3 hockey pucks glued together in each corner. Drilled thru the pucks for the lag bolts, that bolt it to the floor.
I put a biscuit in every corner and in the center. Still deciding whether to bolt it down because like any so called "safe" that is 10 - 16 gauge sheet metal, the sides, top, and bottom can be punched through and pried open with ordinary hand tools. So going through the extra work might not be worth it. I wanted an inch off the ground to prevent the bottom from rusting out and in case there was a flood.
 
Statistically speaking a safe laying down after being knocked over is much easier to break into then one bolted to the floor and standing upright. Something about leverage used to pry the safe open.
Good luck. 😂
I pitty the fool trying.

They are better off looking for the unlocked hidden drawers.
 
OP here: If any of you don't believe in fate/karma/coincidence etc.......you care to explain to me how my Winchester safe keypad completely failed just today after about 8 years?
Thanks. [banghead]
 
I recommend the Peet safe dehumidifier. It takes up way less room than a golden rod. As to security, I think you’re better off with a security cam in your gun room and insurance. Will alert you if someone is in the room before they start working on your safe. Folks are right that a professional safe mover can get a safe in and out in 10 minutes. Just go watch eastern security safe move a safe. Up and down stairs no problem with their electric conveyer dolly. Anyway, also buy firearm insurance from Eastern Historic Firearms. Inexpensive premium, don’t have to list your guns. I think it’s like $150 annual for like $40k of coverage.
 
This is going in a less than optimal / desirable space, subject to some decent temperature swings and moisture, so I want to be careful and do what I can to mitigate long term damage to my babies.

1) Concrete floor: Expansion bolts at the four corners, right?
2) Older safe no fire tape on door seal, need recommendations, ty.
3) Humidity control, I can run a cord into the safe for power, dehumidifier recommendations, ty.
4) Inside door is bare steel, pocket organizer suggestios, ty.
5) Lights?
6) Anything I'm missing before I get it up and running, ty.

🥸
Act like its your life and anyone that knows about it will leverage it on your well being.
Other than that.......
 
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