New Reloader

[Crotchrocket]

So I just started reloading, .223, and I have a bunch of little questions and comments so I figured I'd just dump them all here.

1. Are little dents in the case ok or should I just toss all imperfect brass?

2. Alot of my cases have a little primer pocket bushing that is not part of the case or the primer. What is this and can it cause problems?


3. I've seen a lot on tumble time and I did a test at 4 hours the brass was pretty shiney at 12 hours it was shinier.. This is with corn cob and polishing compound. Also even after 12 hours the primer pockets are still really dirty. I use the primer cleaner tool, but was hoping it would clean there.

4. I am using a lee classic turret press and my order of operations are:
1. Clean brass with water and soap and rinse and dry
2. Deprime and size
3. Tumble polish cases
4. Measure case length and clean primer pocket
5. Trim long cases
6. Chamfer case mouth and primer pocket
7. Prime, powder, bullet, crimp

However the setup for the auto indexing turret seems to not have steps for any of the cleaning measuring and prepping in between steps 2 and 7.

 

[PL-52]

Have you thought about taking a reloading class? Mass Reloading offers rifle cartridge classes at GOAL'S office. I did a pistol reloading class thru Jim I learned more in 1 day than I would have in a year trying to figure this all out myself.http://www.massreloading.com/schedule.html

 

[headednorth]

1-Small dents are no problem, theyll get flattened out when you fire them. If the dents are on the shoulder after you have sized the case, youre probably using too much lube or not letting the lube dry enough before you size. Hydrolic pressure is causing the dents. (if they are present after sizing but they werent before you sized)

2-Not sure, maybe the primer crimp applied at the factory for milspec brass which looks like a little ring inside the pocket but is actually part of the case.

3-If you like it shiny, tumble longer. I just need them clean so I tumble like a hour or so.

4-Sizing and depriming are a separate operation from everything else for me. (using a Dillon 650, not familiar with your press) I run them all through the press with the sizing/depriming die installed only. Then do the rest of the steps with the other dies installed in the press.

1-size/deprime only
2-trim
3-prime, charge, seat

-I dont wash, just tumble with dry media. (cases, not me )
-I dont measure cases, I just run them all through the trimmer. If theyre at trim length or shorter, you can tell right away by not feeling the cutter engage. I think its quicker than measuring and sorting.
-I dont clean the primer pocket, but thats a matter of preference.
-I dont crimp either. Again, a preference.

My order of op.
1-dry tumble til clean
2-sort by headstamp (sometimes), and lube
3-size/deprime only
4-trim without measuring or sorting. My trimmer chamfers case mouths while it trims.
5-swage primer pockets if necessary
6-back on press with powder, and seating dies installed. Prime, charge and seat. No crimp.
7-back in tumbler to remove lube residue. Some people feel funny about tumbling live rounds but Ive never had an issue. It what the factories do.
8-count, label and store.

eta- Yeah what he said. I took the class he mentioned and learned a ton, got some hands on experience with someone there watching what youre doing was a big help vs trying to figure it out on my own via Youtube.

 

[pastera]

1 - small dents are not an issue

2 - Post a pic. It sounds like your brass sat wet and the primer cup corroded and stuck in the pocket. When you decap, all that comes out is the bottom of the cup and the anvil. If this is what you have the brass is scrap.

3 - shiny brass isn't the point. All you need is clean enough to not damage your dies. Past that is playing with it (IE: if shiny brass makes you happy go for it)

4 - Tumble clean, size/decap, trim/deburr/chamfer, tumble off lube, load

 

[peterthefish]

2. Alot of my cases have a little primer pocket bushing that is not part of the case or the primer. What is this and can it cause problems?

2-Not sure, maybe the primer crimp applied at the factory for milspec brass which looks like a little ring inside the pocket but is actually part of the case.

This is most likely. If you try to prime the case and the primer pops that’s a dead giveaway. If your brass is NATO it’s crimped and needs to have the crimp removed.

2 - Post a pic. It sounds like your brass sat wet and the primer cup corroded and stuck in the pocket. When you decap, all that comes out is the bottom of the cup and the anvil. If this is what you have the brass is scrap.[/IMG]

This is very unlikely.

 

[pastera]

Peter:

You may not have experience it but the lousy phone pic I posted is three rounds that had the primer stuck, one with the top of the primer still partially attached

I can grab a better picture if more evidence is needed.

 

[mac1911]

Don't get to over whelmed with primer pocket cleaning. I just run my brass through the primer pocket uniformer and the other bit that "cleans" them. I will hit any "new " brass with the flash hole uniforming tool also.
As mentioned you run your brass through the decap/resize stage first them clean and trim as,needed. Then load.
I try to process as much brass as I have.
Currently I run 500 case batches. As I don't shoot all that much these days. I load those 500 cases until I see problem. Splits, primer pocket loosness then I prep another 500 cases.
Im not to concerned with primer pocket cleaning.
I tumble , decape, resize, run through case prep and start loading.

 

[peterthefish]

Peter:

You may not have experience it but the lousy phone pic I posted is three rounds that had the primer stuck, one with the top of the primer still partially attached

I can grab a better picture if more evidence is needed.

I’ve seen it but without pics or further information that is much less likely to be the issue than crimped primer pockets. When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras.

 

[slap shot]

crimped primer pockets suck

 

[headednorth]

crimped primer pockets suck

Yeah they do. I originally tried the countersink type bit* to remove the crimp but I felt like I was taking off too much and if I took off less I had a hard time fitting the primer in. Switched to the RCBS set up that screws in the single stage with the nipple looking thing in the shell holder to swage instead. Still no fun but it gets done.

* not really a countersink but couldnt remember the name. Weldon #14 maybe, something like that. Ive read you should just have to touch the pocket with it to remove the crimp but it didnt work for me that way.

 

[Crotchrocket]

Yeah looks like I have a ring crimp on most of my brass which is PPU, Wolf Gold and Federal .223 not 5.56. So I'll be looking for another tool to clean that up. Thanks!

The whole primer is out and complete no damage.

 

[Fixxah]

Weldon countersink bit and a drill press makes short work of the crimp.

I use Federal brass on my ammo that I bring to NES shoots and it usually stays there along with PPU. I like NATO brass, be it Lake City or Radway.

If you plan on loading a shitload, look into a good case trimmer. Your fingers and clock will thank you.

And take the class mentioned earlier. Jim is about as good as you will ever find when it comes to reloading.

Also, don't brush the case necks clean, they grip the bullet better and accuracy is noticeably better. You can tumble your finished product to give it a good shine. I wet tumble in stainless and the cases are completely devoid of any residue but my dry tumbled brass is my go to for precision shooting.

 

[slap shot]

Weldon countersink bit and a drill press makes short work of the crimp.

I use Federal brass on my ammo that I bring to NES shoots and it usually stays there along with PPU. I like NATO brass, be it Lake City or Radway.

If you plan on loading a shitload, look into a good case trimmer. Your fingers and clock will thank you.

And take the class mentioned earlier. Jim is about as good as you will ever find when it comes to reloading.

Also, don't brush the case necks clean, they grip the bullet better and accuracy is noticeably better. You can tumble your finished product to give it a good shine. I wet tumble in stainless and the cases are completely devoid of any residue but my dry tumbled brass is my go to for precision shooting.

I have an end mill with perfect diameter and a shoulder that just happened to be in the bottom of an old tool box. It works great but you still need to touch every one of them...

 

[mac1911]

I have an end mill with perfect diameter and a shoulder that just happened to be in the bottom of an old tool box. It works great but you still need to touch every one of them...

You only need to do it once though.

 

[EddieZoom]

IWhen you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras.

I'm going to have to steal that one ;-)