Need advice on a rifle scope

OK I have scope,rings, rail and tools now.i need a gunvice to properly mount the scope.anyones in central ma/worcester area have a gunvice that I can borrow?
You dont need a vice. Rest on a gun bag or other support.
Some Ideas for makeshift rests

Duffle bag stuffed with anything
Cardboard box with notches cut at each end.
Bag of play sand

Im a advocator of a torque screw driver for beginers….so you dont over tighten bolts

Many do not need to be all that tight. The screws that come with less expensive mounts/rings suck and do not hold up well to over tightening
 
Im a advocator of a torque screw driver for beginers….so you dont over tighten bolts
True dat.

One thing to do for a beginner- after scope is mounted, use black permanent marker and draw line next to a front ring front, facing muzzle. If after shooting you will discover than line shifted from the ring - means scope tube slips forward due to recoil.
Over tightening tube will damage it, under tightening will result with zero shift.
 
My first post was based on reviews.

But after more reading and speaking with peopleI decided to order one.

Eye relief is fine, it is actually really good. But this is one of those things that great for some is horrible for others.

The last part that really sold me on Athlon was looking through the glass and having one side by side with a Razor Gen 2, where the Razor owner even said the Athlon glass looked better.

Also, keep in mind I was talking about LPVO. Too many people always say LPVO have a terrible eye box past 6x. I don't own any LPVO with greater than 6x mag, but I did buy one Athlon LPVO a few weeks ago. The 6x is perfectly fine.

I am sold on Athlon. If I can find a good torture video (haven't looked), I might start buying all Athlon.

If anyone wants to look through one, send me a message.
Athlons are good decent scopes and I wish I bought a few when they first started showing up more in the powder burning platforms.
They where all ready well known in the air rifle circle. I was a Hawke fan for air rifle at that time.

I have never been drawn in deep enough to have 1 exclusive brand.
 
True dat.

One thing to do for a beginner- after scope is mounted, use black permanent marker and draw line next to a front ring front, facing muzzle. If after shooting you will discover than line shifted from the ring - means scope tube slips forward due to recoil.
Over tightening tube will damage it, under tightening will result with zero shift.
Lesser quality screws will strip before you crush a tube…..
Anyhow no torque wrench a all key pinched between thumb and for finger only is plenty tight.
 
Im a advocator of a torque screw driver for beginers….so you dont over tighten bolts

Only for beginners?

I am not an expert, but I am far from a beginner. I have worked on various types of small equipment. And I have mounted quite a few optics that hold zero, and with no parts or screws damaged. I think my hand feel for small screws is pretty good.

I recently added a torque screw driver to my kit, and started reviewing manufacturer docs to get proper screw torques. I am surprised how much difference there is between the measured torque and how things feel in hand. I give a strong recommend to the torque screwdriver.
 
I am not an expert, but I am far from a beginner. I have worked on various types of small equipment. And I have mounted quite a few optics that hold zero, and with no parts or screws damaged. I think my hand feel for small screws is pretty good.

I recently added a torque screw driver to my kit, and started reviewing manufacturer docs to get proper screw torques. I am surprised how much difference there is between the measured torque and how things feel in hand. I give a strong recommend to the torque screwdriver.
Same. I mounted a lot of scopes. I am always surprised how little force it takes when using the torque wrench.

I have scopes I mounted years ago without a torque wrench and they are fine, but I know I over torqued them.
 
I am not an expert, but I am far from a beginner. I have worked on various types of small equipment. And I have mounted quite a few optics that hold zero, and with no parts or screws damaged. I think my hand feel for small screws is pretty good.

I recently added a torque screw driver to my kit, and started reviewing manufacturer docs to get proper screw torques. I am surprised how much difference there is between the measured torque and how things feel in hand. I give a strong recommend to the torque screwdriver.
My dad always says human eye can judge distance and “level” pretty darn well
Can hear and pick up direction decently
But when it comes to strength …. Not good

as a 30 plus year tech , yeah I can free hand fasteners well enough they wont come loose or cause issues for most parts
But as you seen , put a torque wrench on it and more than likely to tight or not quite tight enough.

We are see al lot of stripped bolts especially on intakes. Where the torgue is really low.
 
My dad always says human eye can judge distance and “level” pretty darn well
Can hear and pick up direction decently
But when it comes to strength …. Not good

as a 30 plus year tech , yeah I can free hand fasteners well enough they wont come loose or cause issues for most parts
But as you seen , put a torque wrench on it and more than likely to tight or not quite tight enough.

We are see al lot of stripped bolts especially on intakes. Where the torgue is really low.

Hence , why JB Weld was invented !
 
Hey nes,Which one a good one for my 308 bolt action rifle?I know next to nothing about rifle scope,just that it time for me to to replace the 4x scope on the gun.
I have been too lazy to look up any of the scopes on that list. If you research older, used scopes or new old stock scopes you got to see what they went for when they were new and if there was anything good about them back then.
Not long after I bought one of my scopes that I really like , zero stops started showing up on everything. It was an expensive option and very limited scopes at the time had zero stops.
Not long after that second focal plane scopes became common.
Same thing , adjustable objectives where only available on the front eye bell years ago. When the side adjustable objective came along thats was the death of the front eye bell option for me .


Are these things that matter to you? I don’t know I’ve managed to live without them, but when I was in the buying mood zero stops might have been an option, if didn’t bump me up into a different price range all together back then.

In the end, I have found what works for me is a decent Rifle good quality rings and almost any scope that can hold up to the recoil and hold zero
I have some really old 4X 5/8 tube 22 scopes that have held zero for many many years.
 
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I have been too lazy to look up any of the scopes on that list. If you research older, used scopes or new old stock scopes you got to see what they went for when they were new and if there was anything good about them back then.
Not long after I bought one of my scopes that I really like , zero stops started showing up on everything. It was an expensive option and very limited scopes at the time had zero stops.
Not long after that second focal plane scopes became common.
Same thing , adjustable objectives where only available on the front eye bell years ago. When the side adjustable objective came along thats was the death of the front eye bell option for me .


Are these things that matter to you? I don’t know I’ve managed to live without them, but when I was in the buying mood zero stops might have been an option, if didn’t bump me up into a different price range all together back then.

In the end, I have found what works for me is a decent Rifle good quality rings and almost any scope that can hold up to the recoil and hold zero
I have some really old 4X 5/8 tube 22 scopes that have held zero for many many years.

Meh. Too many people buy features they don't need. Zero stop seems nice, if you are not competing, or will be using them in a challenging hunting trip out West, then why pay more? ... I would even question the hunting part. Everyone I know that hunts at 300+ yards over windy terrain uses the reticle. I don't know that many people, I know a guy that owns an outfitter and 4 other guys that go every year. So my pool of people is limited.

Same with FFP vs SFP. Most of the people I know that don't compete get ZERO benefit from FFP, yet they pay more for FFP.

If people were honest with what they really need, they would be able to spend their money on better glass quality, which makes a huge difference, over a scope with a bunch of crap they won't be using.
 
Meh. Too many people buy features they don't need. Zero stop seems nice, if you are not competing, or will be using them in a challenging hunting trip out West, then why pay more? ... I would even question the hunting part. Everyone I know that hunts at 300+ yards over windy terrain uses the reticle. I don't know that many people, I know a guy that owns an outfitter and 4 other guys that go every year. So my pool of people is limited.

Same with FFP vs SFP. Most of the people I know that don't compete get ZERO benefit from FFP, yet they pay more for FFP.

If people were honest with what they really need, they would be able to spend their money on better glass quality, which makes a huge difference, over a scope with a bunch of crap they won't be using.
I come from a period where scopes where zeroed for PBR of vital zone
Which translates to aroun 1.5”- 2” high at 100 yards for most common calibers

2 places I found that zero stop would be useful . Field target and any competition that requires a base zero and consistent changes with the turrets vs hold over.

I also grew up on fixed or low power scopes
Moat maxing out at 7X - 10X

The “biggest “ scope I have is a 8x32
It lives on 24X because thata where the
Reticle is “correct” or MOA correct
= subtension

Its all fun: what ever scope tou get , get to know it

My dad taught me how to use the old school 2x7x32 30/30 reticlw to range find and hold overs .so when people are showing me some cool reticle , I incmy head I say , I can do that with the 30/30
The most standard applications say within inside 300 yards
 
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i ordered myself a second 1-6x arken, will set those on the more 'tactical' ARs i`ve got, where i had before 4-16x scopes, it`s not needed there at all.

i got to say, i like it pretty much, the FOV is excellent and SFP reticle is simple. they made it too busy with 1-8x ffp reticle, and for a 50-200yds zeroed gun it was just silly.
code brings it to $199, then tax and shipping makes it $227.43 to your door, and at that price level the only alternative LPVO is monstrum, that is an absolute garbage product in all aspects.


i expect bdc drops to be messed up, though, as i think they moved that reticle 'as is' from the 8x into the 6x scope, so it cannot be accurate. but, will test it later, hopefully this week.
again, should not matter much for a 200yds zeroed gun that is not expected to be used far beyond 300.
 
i ordered myself a second 1-6x arken, will set those on the more 'tactical' ARs i`ve got, where i had before 4-16x scopes, it`s not needed there at all.

i got to say, i like it pretty much, the FOV is excellent and SFP reticle is simple. they made it too busy with 1-8x ffp reticle, and for a 50-200yds zeroed gun it was just silly.
code brings it to $199, then tax and shipping makes it $227.43 to your door, and at that price level the only alternative LPVO is monstrum, that is an absolute garbage product in all aspects.


i expect bdc drops to be messed up, though, as i think they moved that reticle 'as is' from the 8x into the 6x scope, so it cannot be accurate. but, will test it later, hopefully this week.
again, should not matter much for a 200yds zeroed gun that is not expected to be used far beyond 300.
BDC should be the same
What we dont know is what specs did they use to get the ballistics from
M193 , M855 , 5.56 NATO , 7.62 NATO
9mm NATO ? Based on ammo spec or specific platform/barrel length/suppressed?
The BDC on that is for known length box or known target size hits on target type shooting. Looks a little busy and a un natural lay out. ?
What ever anyone chooses just learn what it can do for your ammo/rifle and skills
Scopes are like holsters eventually you find one you like.
 
i ordered myself a second 1-6x arken, will set those on the more 'tactical' ARs i`ve got, where i had before 4-16x scopes, it`s not needed there at all.

i got to say, i like it pretty much, the FOV is excellent and SFP reticle is simple. they made it too busy with 1-8x ffp reticle, and for a 50-200yds zeroed gun it was just silly.
code brings it to $199, then tax and shipping makes it $227.43 to your door, and at that price level the only alternative LPVO is monstrum, that is an absolute garbage product in all aspects.


i expect bdc drops to be messed up, though, as i think they moved that reticle 'as is' from the 8x into the 6x scope, so it cannot be accurate. but, will test it later, hopefully this week.
again, should not matter much for a 200yds zeroed gun that is not expected to be used far beyond 300.
BDC should be the same
What we dont know is what specs did they use to get the ballistics from
M193 , M855 , 5.56 NATO , 7.62 NATO
9mm NATO ?
The BDC on that is for known

How many MOA does the center dot cover?
 
BDC should be the same
What we dont know is what specs did they use to get the ballistics from
M193 , M855 , 5.56 NATO , 7.62 NATO
9mm NATO ?
The BDC on that is for known

How many MOA does the center dot cover?
manual does not seem to say, i would guess 1moa, but will confirm later when i going to take it to the 100yds range.
at first glance looks to be identical to my 1-6x vortex pst2 size wise.


ps. it is no nightforce. it is a $199 arken. do not mix 'em in the same sentence. :)

pps. and just as i was in the mood, i gave them all a new skinjob.
1730921194873.png
 
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i ordered myself a second 1-6x arken, will set those on the more 'tactical' ARs i`ve got, where i had before 4-16x scopes, it`s not needed there at all.

i got to say, i like it pretty much, the FOV is excellent and SFP reticle is simple. they made it too busy with 1-8x ffp reticle, and for a 50-200yds zeroed gun it was just silly.
code brings it to $199, then tax and shipping makes it $227.43 to your door, and at that price level the only alternative LPVO is monstrum, that is an absolute garbage product in all aspects.


i expect bdc drops to be messed up, though, as i think they moved that reticle 'as is' from the 8x into the 6x scope, so it cannot be accurate. but, will test it later, hopefully this week.
again, should not matter much for a 200yds zeroed gun that is not expected to be used far beyond 300.

Exactly what I keep thinking about (remove a 4-14 and add that, to a tacticalish thing).. told myself no more cheap glass but it would work fine.

Wish there were more SFP LPVOs out there, turn me onto something if you have an opinion please. Especially in the on sale for $1000 with nice glass ballpark..

FFP adds cost for something I don't see as an important feature here especially - even a 1-10x would be a whole lot of it not mattering if you gotta zoom all the way to use the reticle accurately, ie once I'm worried about adjustment 10x is fine at that distance. If they made it I'd be ok with something that did a true 1 OR 8 but nothing between :)
 
Exactly what I keep thinking about (remove a 4-14 and add that, to a tacticalish thing).. told myself no more cheap glass but it would work fine.

Wish there were more SFP LPVOs out there, turn me onto something if you have an opinion please. Especially in the on sale for $1000 with nice glass ballpark..

FFP adds cost for something I don't see as an important feature here especially - even a 1-10x would be a whole lot of it not mattering if you gotta zoom all the way to use the reticle accurately, ie once I'm worried about adjustment 10x is fine at that distance. If they made it I'd be ok with something that did a true 1 OR 8 but nothing between :)

Tract has an LPVO (Toric) for just under $1K and SFP. I think made in Japan. I believe last year they had a Black Friday sale. I am waiting, companies should start announcing those around Nov 10-12.

Athlon Cronus Gen 2 LPVO is also SFP, can be found on sale for under $1K. Great glass, Japanese.

Delta Stryker HD, also SFP and under $1K. I read great things about this optic and C_DOES has a really nice review. If TRACT doesn't have a good sale, the Delta will probably be my next LPVO. Can't remember where it is made, either Japan or somewhere in Europe.

MEOPTA OPTIKA 6 LPVO - I need to check but I think they offer a SFP option. Great glass, manufactured in Europe. Same company that manufactures glass for a lot of other known scope brands. Only downside I have read is that the dot might not be daylight bright if under full sun, but no personal experience. Can be found for around $500 on sale. My 2x Optika6 worked fine while I was hunting on a field that was bright AF. But I didn't need a daylight bright red sot for that, except when it got darker, which worked fine.
 
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LPVO are FFP so theres no thinking when changing MagX
The reticle subtension stays correct throufh the range of magX adjustment
 
LPVO are FFP so theres no thinking when changing MagX
The reticle subtension stays correct throufh the range of magX adjustment
Ffp lpvo are annoying as at 1x inner part of the reticle is like blurred garbage in the center. I don’t like that.
 
LPVO are FFP so theres no thinking when changing MagX
The reticle subtension stays correct throufh the range of magX adjustment

That's the idea, yes, but in practical terms if you are shooting at or close to 300 yards & beyond 6x, 8x, 10x, is all fine, and at max is where the reticle is usually correct. So you shoot at max. Nothing to consider. Cool.

Much inside of that you really don't need a reticle, not one with any information beyond center that is. So use whatever magnification you want. Cool.

In a big scope, although for the $$ I'd rather have better quality glass, adjustments, robustness, etc over FFP, it matters a lot more since then you legitimately may need 12x versus 24x. In something that maxes at relatively small magnification, FFP is a nothing burger to me.
 
I’ve settled on up to 6x on an LPVO, I like SFP. The reticles are usually much better at 1x and they have more forgiving eye boxes.

Go up to 8x or 10x on an LPVO and I’ll take a FFP. Mostly because the top magnification is usually a sacrifice somehow. Tight eyebox or darkening of the image due to small exit pupil. I don’t want to have to be in that magnification to use the stadia. I want the highest mag to be an option, not a requirement.

Now, if we’re talking about an MPVO, I’ll go up to a 10x top end for SFP. For optics like the NF NXS 2.5-10x42, the 10x is still very usable and I don’t mind rolling up all the way to 10x every time I want to use the stadia.

I’ve eyed the NX8 2.5-20, but the FFP versions all have reticles that don’t work at 2.5x. But the SFP versions, I think, are calibrated for 20x reticles. If the SFP versions were on at 10x, I’d pick one up in a heart beat. Any time over 10x I wouldn’t mind just dialing.
 
That's the idea, yes, but in practical terms if you are shooting at or close to 300 yards & beyond 6x, 8x, 10x, is all fine, and at max is where the reticle is usually correct. So you shoot at max. Nothing to consider. Cool.

Much inside of that you really don't need a reticle, not one with any information beyond center that is. So use whatever magnification you want. Cool.

In a big scope, although for the $$ I'd rather have better quality glass, adjustments, robustness, etc over FFP, it matters a lot more since then you legitimately may need 12x versus 24x. In something that maxes at relatively small magnification, FFP is a nothing burger to me.
Right. So you understand your needs, expectations.
I get what your saying and its why the few low mag variables I have generally live on the higher X
My 1x7 on one of my ARs has been on 7x since day one , lol its one of the BDC reticles that does not match any realistic ballistic drop.
 
Right. So you understand your needs, expectations.
I get what your saying and its why the few low mag variables I have generally live on the higher X
My 1x7 on one of my ARs has been on 7x since day one , lol its one of the BDC reticles that does not match any realistic ballistic drop.
Why get a low mag that always lives on high mag, when you could get a higher magnification scope that could be more useful?

This is what I mean ... if you have a 1-7x always on 7x, why not have a 3-18 always on 7x, which gives you the option of going up to 18x?

The higher mag scope might weight a bit more, but also has a larger lens and probably costs the same or is cheaper than the LPVO.
 
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