need a new torque wrench...

Golddiggie

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The old torque wrench I have at least needs a new o-ring between the head and body (it's cracking). So I figured it might be time to get a newer one since this one was from the late 90's (Craftsman back when they were 'decent').

Right now, these are my top two contenders:
TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335 $38
TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | 24340 $57

I need to have the range of 25-120 ft.-lb. at this point. So either would do the job. Item 24340 has that as the low end and it's high end is a lot higher than I can expect to need (at this point). I have at least a month before I need to decide on either getting a new one, reconditioning the one I have, or both.

I'm looking to keep the purchase to under $100 for this. Prices I listed above are at the time of this posting. Since they are subject to change on amazon.

So, anyone have experience with either of the above wrenches? Have one that's "wicked pissah" that's also in my budget range? NOT going to get one from harbor freight since I want something that will be good for more than a single use. ;)

I'd prefer to buy at a local store, but it needs to be local to the Pelham, NH area. Also not looking to pay inside the PRM (F-you MA DoR). Just seems like most of the better tools are not found in most of the stores in the region. Or at least that's how it seems.

Alternate would be if someone happens to know what size o-ring is at the end of a Craftsman Digitork torque wrench (from the late 90's) that would be good info to have. It appears to be fairly simple to remove the head and replace. But with my luck something will go flying off to the black hole area of my workshop never to be seen in this universe again. Of course, that will also be the one part that is no longer available anywhere.

Pic of the o-ring that needs to be replaced:
IMG_20200209_135804.jpg
 
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I am not sure, but I don't see how that O-Ring would affect the proper torque specs. Can you roll that O-Ring off of the wrench without disassembly? It may be there just to keep debris from getting into the mechanism.
 
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I'm with FisherTech. I have a similar Craftsman- the manual says it's a dust seal The trick will be to get a new one on.
 

grey

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Tektons are fine. I inherited a snap on and that's a solid wrench as well. If I had to buy one tomorrow it would be a Tekton.
 

timbo

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FWIW, I bought one of the HF ones just to compare it with ones we have in our shop that cost many hundreds of dollars. Our torque wrench calibration unit says it is within spec (+-4%) at 20,60 &100% torque. Maybe mine is an outlier...YMMV.
 
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Automotive Parts stores should have an assortment of O-Rings that should work. I know my local NAPA store does. Might even find one at a hardware store.
 

Golddiggie

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@golden chicken Not sure I would trust a calibration tool from HF to test torque wrenches from HF (or anyplace for that matter) and give reliable/accurate results for the long term.

I might just remove the old o-ring, slap one of my calipers onto the area it went on to get the ID needed and see what I can dig up. I might have something on hand that's close enough to work.

I've not used the torque wrench in several years. I'm looking to get some nerf/step bars in another couple of months and will need to torque the bolts used to install it. Some to 25-30 ft.-lbs.,some to 50-55 and some to 120 ft.-lbs. The wrench I have covers that full range right now (doesn't go much above 120 ft-lbs though). Not sure when I would use it again.
 

grey

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@golden chicken Not sure I would trust a calibration tool from HF to test torque wrenches from HF (or anyplace for that matter) and give reliable/accurate results for the long term.

I might just remove the old o-ring, slap one of my calipers onto the area it went on to get the ID needed and see what I can dig up. I might have something on hand that's close enough to work.

I've not used the torque wrench in several years. I'm looking to get some nerf/step bars in another couple of months and will need to torque the bolts used to install it. Some to 25-30 ft.-lbs.,some to 50-55 and some to 120 ft.-lbs. The wrench I have covers that full range right now (doesn't go much above 120 ft-lbs though). Not sure when I would use it again.
Go to a hardware store that has the sliding drawers of various fasteners. The better stores have o ring bins. Honestly though I'm pretty sure I wouldn't sweat step bar installation. Crank each bolt/nut appropriately. 25lbs is a good tug using 1/4" driver, 55lbs is medium using a 3/8" and 120lbs is pulling pretty good on a 1/2". Its not a cylinder head, just dont snap the fasteners
 

Golddiggie

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I was planning to use at least my 3/8" or 1/2" sockets and wrenches for this. I have a couple of impact wrenches if I need to really work to get the bolts out. Or just use the 18" breaker bar (1/2" drive) to break them loose and go from there.

Looking at the Westin 21-4130 bars. Just waiting to hear back from Westin on a question I have on them. I'm 99% sure I'll be getting those since the mounting hardware appears more substantial compared with the version Lund offers.
 

mac1911

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The old torque wrench I have at least needs a new o-ring between the head and body (it's cracking). So I figured it might be time to get a newer one since this one was from the late 90's (Craftsman back when they were 'decent').

Right now, these are my top two contenders:
TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335 $38
TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | 24340 $57

I need to have the range of 25-120 ft.-lb. at this point. So either would do the job. Item 24340 has that as the low end and it's high end is a lot higher than I can expect to need (at this point). I have at least a month before I need to decide on either getting a new one, reconditioning the one I have, or both.

I'm looking to keep the purchase to under $100 for this. Prices I listed above are at the time of this posting. Since they are subject to change on amazon.

So, anyone have experience with either of the above wrenches? Have one that's "wicked pissah" that's also in my budget range? NOT going to get one from harbor freight since I want something that will be good for more than a single use. ;)

I'd prefer to buy at a local store, but it needs to be local to the Pelham, NH area. Also not looking to pay inside the PRM (F-you MA DoR). Just seems like most of the better tools are not found in most of the stores in the region. Or at least that's how it seems.

Alternate would be if someone happens to know what size o-ring is at the end of a Craftsman Digitork torque wrench (from the late 90's) that would be good info to have. It appears to be fairly simple to remove the head and replace. But with my luck something will go flying off to the black hole area of my workshop never to be seen in this universe again. Of course, that will also be the one part that is no longer available anywhere.

Pic of the o-ring that needs to be replaced:
View attachment 330629
Im actually surprised they claim +/- 4%
They dont state the accuracy range. My old snapon is click wrench is 6% at 20% of the high end of the scale. So if the max is 100ftlb anything under 20ftlb on the setting is not accurate-
Any how i would test your current wrench old school.
All you you need is a tape measure, vice or a way to hold your wrench and some items of known weight.
Measure from center of drive head to middle of handle. Lets say its
16" 12÷16= 1.33x a known items weight 20lb dumb bell that puts 26.6ftlbs at the head.
Set your wrench to 26.6 ftlb find a way to hold your wrench horizontal to floor and hang the 20lbs from the center of the handle. It should click.
Remember the 4% so it has a 1lb swing either way.
Try it with other weights.
I check mine at the range I use the most.
You really should not have a problem replacing your craftsman digitork its a lifetime warranty. So far lowes has replaced all my busted craftsman hand tools
 
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That's always been my issue with hazard freight. Sometimes you get tools that work way above what you paid for them and other times not so much.
 

mwalsh9152

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I have the Tekton 10-150lb. I cant say too much about it, I've only used it once to torque my transmission pan bolts.

Torque the nerf bars on your truck? You might be literally the only person to do that!
 

enbloc

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Right now, these are my top two contenders:
TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (10-150 ft.-lb.) | 24335 $38
TEKTON 1/2 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (25-250 ft.-lb.) | 24340 $57

I need to have the range of 25-120 ft.-lb. at this point. So either would do the job. Item 24340 has that as the low end and it's high end is a lot higher than I can expect to need (at this point). I have at least a month before I need to decide on either getting a new one, reconditioning the one I have, or both.
As a 30-something year Harley Tech, I always go with the range that is closest to my job-at-hand. Why?
Because if you need exactly 25'#s and the larger-range wrench is even slightly out of calibration you could have an issue.
#24335 fits perfectly. (and for almost $20 bucks less)

"Bigger is not always better..."
~Enbloc
 

Golddiggie

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I have the Tekton 10-150lb. I cant say too much about it, I've only used it once to torque my transmission pan bolts.

Torque the nerf bars on your truck? You might be literally the only person to do that!
I'll be looking to torque the bolts that hold the body to the frame (the bars use those mount points with included brackets). Not so much worried about the bolts that will secure the bars to the mount brackets. But it wouldn't hurt to make sure they won't walk out over time.

As a 30-something year Harley Tech, I always go with the range that is closest to my job-at-hand. Why?
Because if you need exactly 25'#s and the larger-range wrench is even slightly out of calibration you could have an issue.
#24335 fits perfectly. (and for almost $20 bucks less)

"Bigger is not always better..."
~Enbloc
I'm leaning more towards getting that one too (24335). I can't imagine needing to torque anything at more than 150 ft-lbs. Or even above 130 ft-lbs. I'm not changing my own tires on the truck or anything like that. That's what road side assistance is for. ;)

I did find an o-ring, from the ones I have, that worked to replace the cracked one.
IMG_20200209_175816.jpg

I'll have to look, but I don't think I have anything close to 20# that I can do a test on it with (as mentioned above). I did have to remove the end in order to replace the o-ring. Since the new one wouldn't stretch nearly enough to get over the head. 😲

As for the comment posted about it having a 'lifetime warranty'... Torque wrenches were excluded from that from the start. IIRC they came with a single year warranty. Regular hand tools, even ratchets, came with the lifetime coverage. At least the Tekton does come with a lifetime guarantee. I'll probably pull the trigger on the lower ranged version of the two I listed in the coming weeks. As I said, I don't need one immediately, but will need it in about 7-10 weeks. Basically, once the new truck arrives, and I've ordered the step bars, and those arrive, I'll be looking to install them on the next decent weekend (or day off). Provided they answer the question I sent them.
 
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NHKevin

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I'll be looking to torque the bolts that hold the body to the frame (the bars use those mount points with included brackets). Not so much worried about the bolts that will secure the bars to the mount brackets. But it wouldn't hurt to make sure they won't walk out over time.
 

Golddiggie

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Already have a bottle (36ml since I use a good amount) of the 243... I like that better since it's "oil tolerant" which means I don't need to worry about things being super clean (or the hole being oil free after tapping it) before use.

Still, doesn't replace proper torque levels for critical connections.
 

Greg

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I wouldnt even bother torquing nerf bars, I put sliders on my 4Runner and never even thought of using a torque. I use torque on critical parts or when im screwing into aluminum engine/suspension parts. That said I have Snap On for 1/2 and 3/8, and Proto for 1/4..way beyond your Walmart/HF price range though ...Just use a cheap beam style on those non-critical bolts, the torque range is pretty generous and any wrench would work.
 

Golddiggie

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@Greg I'm not dropping stupid money on a Snap On wrench. I'm not doing this for a living and can afford to pay that kind of money on a single tool that I'll use infrequently at best. Infrequently as in maybe a few times a decade.

Do you not consider the bolts holding the body to the frame 'critical parts'??
 

Greg

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@Greg I'm not dropping stupid money on a Snap On wrench. I'm not doing this for a living and can afford to pay that kind of money on a single tool that I'll use infrequently at best. Infrequently as in maybe a few times a decade.

Do you not consider the bolts holding the body to the frame 'critical parts'??
As in having to get the proper torque for it to function properly and not binding anything or stripping the threads, no.

And yes, bolts holding the body to the frame are critical, but you aren't bolting the body on to the frame.

It's just a running board/step that bolts onto the frame right ?

Just wrench on it until you can't wrench.

Like I said it isn't critical and if you really want to torque it down according to the directions, get a beam style wrench if you don't want to spend a lot of money and will only use it twice a decade.
 
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