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My Guns Thread from start to future

edited in new updated parts list

Well todays the big reveal parts day.

The only thing missing, i dont 100% need,but im still debating it is a 45 degree red dot and mount

The picture that reveals it all.

IMG_20210921_175554.jpg

Parts list
Sharpes bros livewire lower
Sharpes bros upper
Sharpes bros 15 inch full top rail handguard(edit)
Shaw barrels 20 inch .223 wylde hbar helical flute (edit)
Surefire warcomp
Surefire warden
Fab defense vts grips
Cmmg ambi mag release
Phase 5 bad lever
Odin works extended mag release
Iron city rifle works titanium take down pins, trigger pins and firing pin
Triggertech 3.5 lb fixed duty trigger (edit)
Triggertech ambi safety selector
Superlative arms rifle piston kit (edit)
Patriot ordinance factory roller cam pin
Fab defense ag43 grip (edit)
Devil dog side charger (edit)
Jp H2 silent capture system (edit)
Primary weapon systems enhanced buffer tube w/ratcheting castle nut
Fab defense gl core stock (edit)
Fab defense spike bipod w/ kinetic development group quick detach mlok (edit)
Sig sauer romeo 8T (edit)
Sig sauer juliet 6x magnifier (edit)
Knock off unity riser (edit)
Knock off unity flip to center for magnifier (edit)
Warrior poet society sling (edit)
neo mag sentry strap (edit)

I think thats everything
 
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the great part about making an AR - it is a modular build, so you can endlessly modify it.
Do not use red loctite on a gas block - it will make it too difficult to replace a barrel if you will decide so.
ballistic advantage you got supplies stock aero builds, but, based on what folks on ar15 forum say, it may be a hit or miss accuracy wise. in the 6.5CM build i did the barrel that came there, also ballistic advantage one - is OK, but not exceptional, somewhat at 1MOA, which is acceptable. but definitely not a subMOA.

surefire is a flash hider - will not help with a recoil, but it is ok, as long as you will keep it covered. do not pin it unless you will be sure you like it - it is fine for a carbine, but may be annoying for a precision build.
there are million ways to make a rifle, but, generally if you set it with a 6-24 scope, you want to be able to hit something with an MOA or sub-MOA accuracy at the distance.
that, typically, requires better stability between shots, less barrel jump and less recoil - that transpires into a 20" heavier barrel, rifle length gas and a precision style stock like magpul prs or luth-ar, or similar. long, heavy, accurate.

going with a carbine build you a priori forego a demand for sub-MOA long distance accuracy and instead go with weight savings, aiming to be ideally at or lower than 9lbs for a whole build with a scope. you go with a light plastic stock, as .223 recoil does not need much absorption, fluted light barrel - typically 16" or 14.5" to be extended to the legal length with a muzzle break, etc. light barrel choice for an accurate carbine is a relative pain, as you, typically, cannot be both light and accurate. therefore for my needs i simply chose larue products as after enough research and talking to people i came to a conclusion that i will not be able to make it better at a competitive price - that was before larue jacked up their prices.
the 16" carbine i have is now at #9.5 weight with a 1-10x arrowhead lpvo scope, sling, olight and red dot on a side.

the precision build is a heavy 20" barrel with 5-25x scope - that rifle is at 14lbs, a very good subMOA LaRue build.

most of your parts point at the carbine build approach, except of the choice of the barrel and scope. so i have a feel you will/may end up building a second rifle soon, and there is nothing wrong with that. :) you cannot have just one AR anyway. they have a tendency to multiply, i am going to make a 5th upper today, for a dedicated .22lr, finally.
 
paul73 said:
the great part about making an AR - it is a modular build, so you can endlessly modify it.
Click to expand...
I had a love hate relationship with the ar when i first started. But im sliwly appreciating it more.
paul73 said:
Do not use red loctite on a gas block - it will make it too difficult to replace a barrel if you will decide so.
Click to expand...
Lovely Massachusetts. Pin and weld 🙄
paul73 said:
ballistic advantage you got supplies stock aero builds, but, based on what folks on ar15 forum say, it may be a hit or miss accuracy wise. in the 6.5CM build i did the barrel that came there, also ballistic advantage one - is OK, but not exceptional, somewhat at 1MOA, which is acceptable. but definitely not a subMOA.
Click to expand...
Ill be honest, if i can get moa or under i think ill be happy.
I wont be able to truely test it until i can get to a range thats more tyan 100 yards.
Price and availability was right.
All the big boys, triarch,criterion etc are all backordered for months.
paul73 said:
surefire is a flash hider - will not help with a recoil, but it is ok, as long as you will keep it covered. do not pin it unless you will be sure you like it - it is fine for a carbine, but may be annoying for a precision build.
Click to expand...
Its a comp as well. Not full on comp, but its there.
But thats where the warden comes into play.
Pushes everything forward vs out to the sides when equipped.
paul73 said:
there are million ways to make a rifle, but, generally if you set it with a 6-24 scope, you want to be able to hit something with an MOA or sub-MOA accuracy at the distance.
that, typically, requires better stability between shots, less barrel jump and less recoil - that transpires into a 20" heavier barrel, rifle length gas and a precision style stock like magpul prs or luth-ar, or similar. long, heavy, accurate.
Click to expand...
Had the magpul prs on my 308.
That thing was a tank.
I saw it as unnecessary weight.
Then found and tried the ab arms sniper x stock on my other AR, and that worked just fine.
Until i changed my charging handle.

That same charging handle is on this build, because it solve 3 problems with 1 part.

Also add the bi pod on the end of this new stock and some weight returns along with stability
paul73 said:
most of your parts point at the carbine build approach, except of the choice of the barrel and scope. so i have a feel you will/may end up building a second rifle soon, and there is nothing wrong with that. :) you cannot have just one AR anyway. they have a tendency to multiply, i am going to make a 5th upper today, for a dedicated .22lr, finally.
Click to expand...
Honestly, this was aiming at a 6.5 grendal build in the beginning.
But , after thinking it through, being the way that ammo is, i pushed it off.
Also, only having 10 rounders, because Massachusetts, weighed in on the decision.
Ive found 1 thread string of 1 person saying you can fit them in a gi mag
 
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ok, just a couple of comments - for the AR15 there is a million pre-ban mags for sale, it is not even an issue to get a 30rd one. not if that would be important for at rage plinking - but it is a last thing to worry about. i also see where you coming from as .308 kicks indeed - but .223 is in reality very close to .22lr. not much recoil, not much need for smoothing it.

i think as you will put the build together you will decide yourself where to take it next, if anywhere. or if barrel will work out well, which is also quite possible, then it will be all set as is.
 
That’s good you’re warming up to the ar.
At first I never cared the ar and bought everything else under the sun. I’ve bought an aug to roller delay to scars. The only thing I’ve had never bought is an fnc, but heard those were garbage.

Feel like the ar just does everything that you need and want. The platform have adjusted to times, and will be around for a long time.
 
paul73 said:
i really disliked the wobbliness of older style ar receivers until i discovered aero lowers with an adjustable bolt that completely removes the wobble of the upper, plus no need to hammer in pins, it is nice.
Click to expand...
Not to mention even without using the tensioning pin, there's not much slop there to begin with, if you're going Aero > Aero or Aero > some other high quality upper....
 
paul73 said:
ok, just a couple of comments - for the AR15 there is a million pre-ban mags for sale, it is not even an issue to get a 30rd one.
Click to expand...
Have you seen the prices of dated pre bans?
They are ridiculous.

paul73 said:
i also see where you coming from as .308 kicks indeed -
Click to expand...
Im aware it kicks. I was just saying i had the prs stock on my .308 that i just recently sold.
Pretty much all it was good for is weight.
Did it even out the check weld to scope gor my particular rifle?
Yes. But at the cost of the weight it added, it wasnt worth it.
The recoil also got worse with it. To me anyways.
paul73 said:
but .223 is in reality very close to .22lr. not much recoil, not much need for smoothing it.
Click to expand...
Smooth is accurate. Smooth is steady.
Smooth = speed plus back on target faster.
Why not try to mitigate as much of it as possible?
paul73 said:
i think as you will put the build together you will decide yourself where to take it next, if anywhere. or if barrel will work out well, which is also quite possible, then it will be all set as is.
Click to expand...
Barrel and length was my only hesitation in the whole build.

But in the end, availability won
 
Well, i crashed out early after work last night by accident, and then woke up around midnight and my brain said this is the time.

So here it is 95% ish complete

0924211114a_HDR.jpg

0924211114_HDR.jpg

And shes a thick girl.
My food scale tops out at 11lbs, so im guessing in the range of 13-15lbs as seen here.

Missing piece is the rdo and offsett mount
 
DarkJoker33 said:
Well, i crashed out early after work last night by accident, and then woke up around midnight and my brain said this is the time.
So here it is 95% ish complete
View attachment 526263
And shes a thick girl.
My food scale tops out at 11lbs, so im guessing in the range of 13-15lbs as seen here.
Missing piece is the rdo and offsett mount
Click to expand...
looks black and killy enough. :)
the part i still do not quite get is how this hybrid of a cheek rest with charging handle works with such a distance to the end of the stock.
what is the effective LOP there? close to 14"? how does or can the cheek go that much forward with stock at the shoulder? hmm.
looking at mine - a typical setup - the cheek rest is almost by the end of the stock and the scope end protrudes back beyond the receiver. yours is sitting so much more forward - is it comfortable? larue_20.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mesatchornug said:
so, what's your goal with this rifle?
Click to expand...
A try at distance and accuracy. A smooth and quick rifle.
paul73 said:
looks black and killy enough. :)
the part i still do not quite get is how this hybrid of a cheek rest with charging handle works with such a distance to the end of the stock.
what is the effective LOP there? close to 14"? how does or can the cheek go that much forward with stock at the shoulder? hmm.
looking at mine - a typical setup - the cheek rest is almost by the end of the stock and the scope end protrudes back beyond the receiver. yours is sitting so much more forward - is it comfortable?View attachment 526288
Click to expand...
I honestly don't know the lop. Didn't measure.
The cheek/charging handle has some adjustment forward or back.
I'll see if I can snag a picture later.

That's part of the reason I chose the Bushnell. The eyebox is very generous. With how I have it setup, the cheek weld spot is just about perfect. If I brought the scope back, I get shadow in the box.
The mount is still on the upper receiver entirely.

It also helps me to remember to lean in.
 
DarkJoker33 said:
eyebox is very generous. With how I have it setup, the cheek weld spot is just about perfect. If I brought the scope back, I get shadow in the box
Click to expand...
eye relief there is same as on vortexes or other scopes - about of 3.7". means it is not anything out of ordinary, and a usual scope position to be expected there.
try it the way you have it, then try setting the edge of the eyepiece on the same vertical with the end of the upper - the carbine way, or move it beyond the end of the upper like on my picture - 1.5-2" back - the rifle way.

compare and keep it the way you like the best, with the stock you use.

you should not be leaning your head forward nowhere, in standing upright position - you stand upright and you just do look at the target naturally with a rifle at wasteline, then you just bring rifle up and it should align naturally with your body when you press cheekrest into the cheekbone and a stock into your shoulder. when going to prone position you typically need to move/extend stock to be about of 2" longer.
if you ever had a shotgun stock fitted to your body - those rifles are not that different, process wise, just stocks suck - compared to a custom fitted shotgun.

also, the scope mount should had been a next size lower, at least, scope sits a bit high.
 
Last edited:
20211004_185821.jpg

So as it sit in the picture, with my hand doing the balancing part, it's at 7.2 ish lbs.
So, if I changed the stock to something lightweight, I should be in the mid to high 6.x lbs area

Edit: shit, no bolt or charging handle
weighed it 0.888 lb

So 8lbs give or take
 
Last edited:
paul73 said:
looks black and killy enough. :)
the part i still do not quite get is how this hybrid of a cheek rest with charging handle works with such a distance to the end of the stock.
what is the effective LOP there? close to 14"? how does or can the cheek go that much forward with stock at the shoulder? hmm.
looking at mine - a typical setup - the cheek rest is almost by the end of the stock and the scope end protrudes back beyond the receiver. yours is sitting so much more forward - is it comfortable?View attachment 526288
Click to expand...

Promised picture of charging handle
20211004_190654.jpg
 
DarkJoker33 said:
View attachment 529349

So as it sit in the picture, with my hand doing the balancing part, it's at 7.2 ish lbs.
So, if I changed the stock to something lightweight, I should be in the mid to high 6.x lbs area

Edit: shit, no bolt or charging handle
weighed it 0.888 lb
Click to expand...
So the optic, BFD, and legs weigh 4+ pounds? Holy carp!
 
Mesatchornug said:
So the optic, BFD, and legs weigh 4+ pounds? Holy carp!
Click to expand...
That scope is 30oz. Which would work for a heavy precision build - but not for something expected to be ‘agile’.

1-10x arrowhead I set light build with is at 20oz. It is difficult to find anything with good magnification and under 20oz. Swarovski makes an interesting sfp scope with a ballistic turret of theirs that is only 16oz - but it is expensive, and reviews are inconsistent regarding actual optics quality.
www.sportoptics.com

Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 BT - 4W

Click Here for 4W Reticle Instructions Swarovski Specifications Quick Review magnification range: 3.5X to 18X scope weight: 15.9 ounces scope length: 14.29 inches eye relief: 3.74 inches scope finish: matte black
www.sportoptics.com www.sportoptics.com
 
paul73 said:
That scope is 30oz. Which would work for a heavy precision build - but not for something expected to be ‘agile’.

1-10x arrowhead I set light build with is at 20oz. It is difficult to find anything with good magnification and under 20oz. Swarovski makes an interesting sfp scope with a ballistic turret of theirs that is only 16oz - but it is expensive, and reviews are inconsistent regarding actual optics quality.
www.sportoptics.com

Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 BT - 4W

Click Here for 4W Reticle Instructions Swarovski Specifications Quick Review magnification range: 3.5X to 18X scope weight: 15.9 ounces scope length: 14.29 inches eye relief: 3.74 inches scope finish: matte black
www.sportoptics.com www.sportoptics.com
Click to expand...
TBH I hadn't even looked at the weight on my Razor (46.5oz 😲) until just now, but waiting to get put on a varmint build where it doesn't matter if it's a truck.
That makes sense though, magnification and speed are kind of at cross purposes.
 
Mesatchornug said:
So the optic, BFD, and legs weigh 4+ pounds? Holy carp!
Click to expand...

paul73 said:
That scope is 30oz. Which would work for a heavy precision build - but not for something expected to be ‘agile’.

1-10x arrowhead I set light build with is at 20oz. It is difficult to find anything with good magnification and under 20oz. Swarovski makes an interesting sfp scope with a ballistic turret of theirs that is only 16oz - but it is expensive, and reviews are inconsistent regarding actual optics quality.
www.sportoptics.com

Swarovski Z5 3.5-18x44 BT - 4W

Click Here for 4W Reticle Instructions Swarovski Specifications Quick Review magnification range: 3.5X to 18X scope weight: 15.9 ounces scope length: 14.29 inches eye relief: 3.74 inches scope finish: matte black
www.sportoptics.com www.sportoptics.com
Click to expand...

Science session complete

Complete upper
20211005_185553.jpg

Surefire warden
20211005_185523.jpg

Bipod
20211005_185449.jpg

Scope,sunshade and mount
20211005_185407.jpg

Stock w/Bipod
20211005_185205.jpg

Complete lower
20211005_185153.jpg
 
Did a thing a joined the pistol red dot camp.

20211018_200141.jpg

Just got it a few hours ago.
Probably shoot it this weekend.

Rifle was shot Saturday
It had cycling issues.
Adjusted gas to full open on gas block and bcg would fire, spit out the casing and not go into battery.
Adjusted gas every which way.

Determined it is probably the buffer syst not being strong enough to push the bolt home.

Yea, yea, you can blame the fancy buffer if you want.
I adjusted it, put the heavier spring on the buffer itself and the heavier weight.
Will test fire again this weekend.
 
Range report.
I'm unsure I'm a pistol red dot fan.
Either I have horrible luck with pistol red dots, or I just suck with them.

My groups are shit at 10 yards. On target but massively shit.
With irons on my apx it seems that I'm shooting better.

I could just suck that bad as well.

The rifle continues to give me issues.
This time to the range, I brought a plain ole bcg(aim surplus np3) and buffer(odinworks adjustable, pulled from my other AR).
Tried each individually from each other. And I continue to have issues.

I fire a round , it cycles. But the bolt doesn't go all the way to battery.
I fire a round, it doesn't cycle.
I fire a round, it jambs.
Each of these happen independently from each other.
A person at the range says they had the same issue and it turned out to be a clogged gas tube.
I kinda eliminated that idea, because it does cycle when the gas block is wide open.

the last idea I have is, that I need an extra power buffer spring.

Magazines are 10 round magpuls or a 10 round cross industries.
I haven't tried my pre ban with an extra power spring yet.

I have yet to be able to fire 2 rounds consistently back to back.
The only other thing that comes across my mind was, that the adjustable gas block, wasn't aligned correctly.
So I took that apart and made sure it was.
The last one which seems very unlikely is the charging handle is binding it up some how.
So I put the regular one back in.
Then go this weekend to fire again.
 

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