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Military surplus ammo ruined my m1 garand UPDATED

Wherever you get one from, if you go fir a used USGI Garand barrel, do NOT buy one without a TE (Throat Erosion) and MW (Muzzle Wear) gage numbers on it.

There has been some people that used to sell their worn out barrels on on-line auctions.
 
Check out the CMP forums if you need validation - but Criterion barrels are supposed to be good.

Sounds like there is something else going on with that stuck bullet (like it was oversize) - to first get it stuck in the barrel to begin with - and then make it so hard to get out.

Everybody has already suggested trying to knock it out with a cleaning rod - the only suggestion I have not seen yet is to cool the whole thing down - that might shrink the metal enough to free up the bullet that you can hammer it out.

Mechanics use this method all the time when installing bearing races - you cool the part down - and it shrinks just enough to make the bearing slip on.


You used to be able to find Garand barrels on Ebay all the time - they put in a policy against gun stuff a while back - and I haven't looked since then, so I don't know if they are still available there.

Garand barrels are everywhere - I believe Midway and Brownells' both have them listed in their catalogs also.


When I started up reloading again after quite a few years idle my Dillon 550 piston had
frozen (dried grease). The only way I could get it loose was to slowly heat the casting
to loosen it. Worked like a charm. As long as your barrel gets heated before the bullet
gets too warm it should loosen up.
 
There is NO lodged bullet that cannot be removed using a brass rod that is just under the diameter of the bore, a two pound hammer and a very light squirt of light oil.

You're either using the wrong tools or not trying hard enough out of fear of damaging the barrel.

Get some brass rods of proper diameter, and cut a piece leaving two inches exposed. Support the chamber end of the barrel(not the back of the receiver) on something soild like the end grain of a block of oak and hit the rod squarely....it will move the bullet. When the rod just about reaches the muzzle, remove it and cut off a couple of inches. Grind any mushrooming off the end so its back to original OD then replace it into the barrel, then use another short piece that gives you another two inches protruding from the muzzle. Continue this proceedure until the bullet falls into the chamber and out of the gun.

I have used this method on numerous guns over the years and have never failed to remove ANY stuck bullet from ANY rifle or pistol.

The guilding copper on the bullet will absolutely move out of the barrel if you hit it hard enough and the barrel is supported on something hard(not steel) but a piece of hardwood.......end grain preferred.

Doesn't matter if the bullet was oversized...if it went in, it WILL come out if you hit it like you mean it.
 
Find a buddy to pull a few bullets for you (or spend $20 on a inertia bullet puller from Midway), pour out the majority of the powder, slide the brass in the chamber without dumping the powder down the barrel and shoot the bullet out. If you want to be conservative pour out 90% of the powder and do this a couple times. I've done it w/a handgun with no ill effects.
 
Fire a .30-06 blank in your rifle. The gas should force the round right out.

Does anyone see anything wrong with this? In theory it should work.
 
I see a lot wrong with that. Because there's no bullet to contain the pressure of the powder during the firing cycle, it doesn't much matter how much powder is in there. What may be perfectly safe as a blank may become a double charge as a clearing attempt.
 
The bullet finally came out after destroying a few brass rods and a mosin rod it finally came out. When I went into brons friday he lent me a steel rod (not a cleaning rod) It is about three or four feet long and fits down the bore pretty good, all I had to do was wham it up and down a five or six times and the bullet came right out [smile].

Now I still have a gun that is shot out at the muzzle but I can still shoot it. I might get a new barrel someday but not now.
 
The bullet finally came out after destroying a few brass rods and a mosin rod it finally came out. When I went into brons friday he lent me a steel rod (not a cleaning rod) It is about three or four feet long and fits down the bore pretty good, all I had to do was wham it up and down a five or six times and the bullet came right out [smile].

Now I still have a gun that is shot out at the muzzle but I can still shoot it. I might get a new barrel someday but not now.

I have read a number of threads on the CMP forums about Garand owners who have had gunsmiths chuck up the barrel in a lathe - and take 1/8" or so off the muzzle end of the barrel - then recrown the muzzel end - and the rifle will shoot much better.
 
I never use military surplus shit.
Here in Finland thre .308 Wolf - cartridges in black box was blowing thre guns. [frown]
 
I have read a number of threads on the CMP forums about Garand owners who have had gunsmiths chuck up the barrel in a lathe - and take 1/8" or so off the muzzle end of the barrel - then recrown the muzzel end - and the rifle will shoot much better.

Counterboring would be better. Same effect, cheaper, still looks the same from the outside.
 
It's not uncommon for competitive shooters to have a barrel recrowned when things seem to be going south. A high quality crown is one of hte most important features of an accurate rifle. A number of years ago, I had an M-14 done in between the 300 and 600 yard line at Camp Perry. Smith on the truck used a piloted hand tool and the rifle shot like it was new.

B
 
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