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Managing Recoil on Bigger Handguns

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Question- what are some tips/techniques for managing recoil on bigger handguns such that one might be able to shoot somewhat accurately, especially on consecutive shots?

I was up in Maine this weekend shooting with my cousins and brother-in-law most of the day Saturday and during the "produce shoot" part of the shoot, one of my cousins asks if I'm ready to "bring the thunder", and I said "sure" and he gets 2 cases out of his truck- one had a Desert Eagle 50AE in it, the other, his newest toy, a S&W 500 8-3/8" stainless. He puts up 3 cantelopes at 25 yards and shoots 3 for 3 with the 50AE, then puts up 5 apples at 25 yards and shoots 4 for 5, relatively fast, with the S&W 500.

I had been hitting apples at 25 yards with my S&W 44 mag somewhat consistently, but when I shot the 50AE- I didn't hit squat. Then I tried the S&W 500. He had Hornady 500gr factory loads. That thing beat me like I was a red-headed stepchild. I couldn't hit a cantelope, let alone an apple at 25 yards. The trigger guard kept hitting/bruising my middle knuckle of my middle finger on my shooting hand. It broke my wrist. Slipped in my grip. Everything bad.

I was determined to try to tame it, and tried 10 more shots, each worse than before. I doubt I could have hit a big pumpkin at 25 yards on the 10th shot.

I watched my cousin shoot again, just focusing on his grip, stance, etc. and he handled the recoil and made consecutive shots accurately. I asked for advice and he just said "I don't know, I don't think about it"

He is stronger than I am, works as a landscaper/carpenter for a living. Maybe it's partially forearm/grip strength??

Thoughts? Advice? I want a rematch with the 500. In fact I need to buy one. My 44mag seems puny and weak now.
 
Sounds like you got "Punch Drunk" Not a big deal to fix. There are techniques you can use like "Ball and Dummy" And "Dry Fire Drills" That can help you overcome "The flinch"

--Mike
 
Your .44 Magnum seems weak? For what - hunting rhino?? [rolleyes]

OK, seriously... practice, practice, practice. How many rounds does your cousin have through the .500?

Dryfire, too. Stick a penny on the front sight and keep it where while you're dry-firing.
 
I use a different technique when I shoot the big bores.

I use a Weaver stance, let my elbows break, and let the muzzle climb as far as it needs to to absorb the recoil. This method is very easy on the wrists.

Also, the noise is more disorienting than the recoil on a .500 (and .460). Try using plugs and muffs at the same time. I bet you'll find that you will anticipate less.
 
I'm not a big guy, but the recoil on the big bores doesn't bother me in the least. That being said, I don't get to shoot them enough to get good with them. While the recoil doesn't bother me, I couldn't shoot them rapid-fire if I tried, the muzzle rise is just too big.
 
I use a different technique when I shoot the big bores.

I use a Weaver stance, let my elbows break, and let the muzzle climb as far as it needs to to absorb the recoil. This method is very easy on the wrists.

How exactly do you let the muzzle climb? In terms of grip/wrists/forearms/arms tenseness? Relax which?

For smaller calibers I have a much looser grip and let my arms relax and I don't fight any recoil. But with the 500 I needed to have a death grip on it to keep it the grip from repositioning in my hand after each shot, but when I did that, my arms/shoulders were tense and that seemed to increase the felt-recoil.
 
It's hard to describe. My elbows and shoulders are loose, my wrists are locked, and I try to use the same grip as for any other handgun. I think I probably end up gripping it a bit tighter only because of the weight of the gun.

The recoil causes my elbows and shoulders (mostly the shoulders) to pivot up. I think this works only with the Weaver stance.
 
It's hard to describe. My elbows and shoulders are loose, my wrists are locked, and I try to use the same grip as for any other handgun. I think I probably end up gripping it a bit tighter only because of the weight of the gun.

The recoil causes my elbows and shoulders (mostly the shoulders) to pivot up. I think this works only with the Weaver stance.

Ok, thanks. I'll try the weaver stance with it- I usually shoot modern isosceles.
 
And while we're on the topic, for anyone with experience shooting them, what would you recommend for a "larger than 44 mag" revolver? I really like the S&W 500 with the 8-3/8 barrel, but I haven't shot anything besides that and Taurus .454, so my experience is limited. I'm not into handgun hunting, I just go to the range (and to the woods to vaporize fruit and water jugs! [smile]). I am interested in getting something big AND accurate, just to shoot for fun.

thanks for any recommendations/info.
 
My X-frame S&Ws (.500 and .460) are probably the most accurate revolvers I own.

I wouldn't recommend either unless you are (or plan to) set up to reload for them.
 
If you want to stray away from revolvers into the single-shot handgun world, Thompson Center has some 'energetic' calibers available. I had a Contender with a 10" barrel in 30-30 for a while. Very accurate, very painful - handloading was necessary, unless you wanted to only shoot factory flat-point bullets. I sold that barrel, and now just have 357, 41, 44 Mag and a 22LR for it. The Encore adds even more calibers to mess with.

The .223 barrel was flat-out fun, though. Between the T/C custom shop and the aftermarket you can find barrels in almost any caliber you'd want to try.
 
It's hard to describe. My elbows and shoulders are loose, my wrists are locked, and I try to use the same grip as for any other handgun. I think I probably end up gripping it a bit tighter only because of the weight of the gun.

The recoil causes my elbows and shoulders (mostly the shoulders) to pivot up. I think this works only with the Weaver stance.
I was watching that before trying with your S&W 500 at the pumpkin shoot last year, and tried to do the same thing. That's probably why I didn't think the recoil was so bad. The noise & blast under the roof (or standing on the line next to you firing it) was definitely worse than the recoil, but then again I wasn't shooting the "nuclear" loads.

I'd only shot .22, 9mm, and .40 prior to that shoot, and I found I had no problems hitting repeatedly with .45 (out of two different 1911s), 44 mag (full-sized S&W), and hitting a couple with the S&W 500.

The worst part for me was how front-heavy the big revolvers are. I barely have the wrist strength to hold them up.
icon_redface.gif
 
It's hard to describe. My elbows and shoulders are loose, my wrists are locked, and I try to use the same grip as for any other handgun. I think I probably end up gripping it a bit tighter only because of the weight of the gun.
.

This is the key, strong locked wrist, relaxed elbows and shoulders. It works for every type of gun.

also recoil has nothing to do with accuracy. line up the sights, break the shot, then deal with recoil. If you can hit the target with a .22 then you can with a .500
 
If you want a hand-cannon like EddieCoyle said the S&W X-frames are cherry, I own a 460 performance center model and it is scary accurate. Im close to targets at like 100yds flat out there, its just heavy to hold free hand to make dead on shots. As for taming the hand-cannons its just going to take practice practice practice. I hold it like I hold every other hand gun and the recoil I find is more straight back than a snap up. I find it rather manageable.
 
Grip has to be high as practical and the energy has to go somewhere, so you need to use your hands, arms, chest, and back as a sort of shock absorber. A bigger boned, more muscled person is going to manage the recoil better, and I don't think it has a lot to do with strength, but more to do with mass.

If your joints are locked, they are going to take the brunt of the force, so that's why...as everyone here has said...keep them relaxed or slightly bent.
 
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Thanks everyone for all the input! Being the impulsive person that I am, I stopped at my local gun shop on the way home and had them order a S&W 500 8-3/8" for me! $1025. Seems like a pretty good price from what I've seen online.

Now I just have to figure out how to afford the ammo... [grin]
 
I just kind of hold the damn things like I would any revolver -- very loose and relaxed. Despite what you'd think, a .500 isn't going to arc all the way up and konk you on the head. You just have to add a very small and subtle "braking" into your elbow after the shot breaks, but the key to shooting them is to hold it and treat it like a .38 j-frame.
 
If you want a hand-cannon like EddieCoyle said the S&W X-frames are cherry, I own a 460 performance center model and it is scary accurate. Im close to targets at like 100yds flat out there, its just heavy to hold free hand to make dead on shots. As for taming the hand-cannons its just going to take practice practice practice. I hold it like I hold every other hand gun and the recoil I find is more straight back than a snap up. I find it rather manageable.

I also have a .460 and agree with your statements. Stocked up on the rounds BEFORE this current madness. Have mucho Speer for practice. Did what I could do (and afford) at the time. Turned out to be a good decision.
 
Another vote for the .500 S&W. I have the 8 3/8" model and it's the most accurate handgun I've ever shot. It's not difficult to hit a 12" gong at 200 yards from the sitting position. Before I got sick I could put 5 shots in one hole off hand at 25 yards. I have never done that with any other handgun. The recoil is not as bad as a .454 out of a Ruger Super Redhawk. I shot EC's 700 grain load and I was still weak from the chemo but didn't want to whimp out. It wasn't bad at all. Bend your elbows slightly, lean forward and grip the gun firmly but not in a trembling death grip. The gun won't hurt you(unless you drop it on your foot) so don't be intimidated. Try the ball and dummy drill and you can also try shooting at blank paper. Concentrate on keeping the front sight centered and just press on the trigger. This way you're not trying to keep the front sight on a target and can focus on sight alignment and trigger squeeze. Start out with lighter loads and consider reloading or get a second job.
 
[grin]
Another vote for the .500 S&W. I have the 8 3/8" model and it's the most accurate handgun I've ever shot. It's not difficult to hit a 12" gong at 200 yards from the sitting position. Before I got sick I could put 5 shots in one hole off hand at 25 yards. I have never done that with any other handgun. The recoil is not as bad as a .454 out of a Ruger Super Redhawk. I shot EC's 700 grain load and I was still weak from the chemo but didn't want to whimp out. It wasn't bad at all. Bend your elbows slightly, lean forward and grip the gun firmly but not in a trembling death grip. The gun won't hurt you(unless you drop it on your foot) so don't be intimidated. Try the ball and dummy drill and you can also try shooting at blank paper. Concentrate on keeping the front sight centered and just press on the trigger. This way you're not trying to keep the front sight on a target and can focus on sight alignment and trigger squeeze. Start out with lighter loads and consider reloading or get a second job.

[grin] The .460 is no different. Treat it as a tool, no different than a hammer. Its a great piece.
 
I'm not a big guy, but the recoil on the big bores doesn't bother me in the least. That being said, I don't get to shoot them enough to get good with them. While the recoil doesn't bother me, I couldn't shoot them rapid-fire if I tried, the muzzle rise is just too big.

+1 I might have to break down and buy a box of .357s and .44 Magnums for this weekend.

BTW, .357 Magnum recoil in a light revolver is just something else altogether. The recoil impulse just feels more violent that other, more powerful cartridges.
 
+1 I might have to break down and buy a box of .357s and .44 Magnums for this weekend.

BTW, .357 Magnum recoil in a light revolver is just something else altogether. The recoil impulse just feels more violent that other, more powerful cartridges.

Agreed -- 158 grains over 14 grains of 2400 in a 340 M&P vs. 700 grains over ??? in an 8" .500-- no comparison. I'll go for the .500 like a moth to flame every time though, it's its own charm altogether. And all it takes with the .500 is one single round to give me a fix.
 
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I have 4 X-frames and love 'em all. Believe it or not, the shorter barrel guns are easier to hit with for most people. The 5" .460 has the best balance of all of them. The 4" .500 isn't bad either, although the flash is awe-inspiring.
 
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