MAGPUL STR NON DESTRUCTIVE REVERSIBLE PINNING

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Got an STR and love it. Free state is in my future some day so I elected not to destroy the tube or the stock. Very simple but involves a little work. In the end, you have a stock and tube that has not been altered in anyway and if you are smooth with the tools, you could de-mod it and sell it back to MAGPUL with out them even knowing.

This will most likely work for any Magpul stock that uses this type of adjustment mechanism. But I only have the STR. For less complicated stocks, just skip the rivets/frictionlock/battery tube comments and go to work. It might be wise to take additional steps to ensure compliance with AWB requirements in this and all cases. This procedure is theoretical, for reference purposes only, and in no way assumes or provides liability or legal advice.

Time needed, 30-45 minutes to figure it out and complete the project...

TOOLS NEEDED:

Flat head
Drill with assorted bits
Pop rivet squeezer and rivets
AR-15 assembly punches or equivalent
Diagonal cutters or equivalent
Dremel rotary tool with cutting wheel or equivalent
Universal problem solving device

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS NEEDED:
1" Aluminum rod stock or, you guessed it, equivalent
Little tiny zip lock baggy


First, choose your length of pull adjustment and mark it or just remember where you want it.

Remove the two allen screws holding the but-pad to the stock. Pop the battery storage caps off. With the flat head you can push in the tangs that hold the but pad captive to the back of the stock and set that and its hardware aside. With the battery storage caps removed, you will see a single pop rivet on each side at the aft end of the stock. Drill the rivet out. Choose a drill bit that is just a little larger than the gap in the middle of the rivet. You will see a cylindrical channel running through the middle of the rivet. You want to drill out the wall of that channel without touching the plastic of the stock on the outside of the rivet. Start small on the drill bit, too big and you risk getting into the plastic of the stock.
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When you have drilled enough, the little ball-bearing will drop out of the back side of of the rivet. Careful with the drill here so you don't drill into the nut plate mount for the but-pad attach screws. If the rivet starts spinning with the drill, just wedge that flat head in there to keep it from spinning until you get all the way through. If you picked the right bit and drilled just right, a punch will pry the head of the rivet off the shank and allow you to remove the head of the rivet and discard. For 90% of the time, you will need to use the diagonal cutters (dykes) to bit the head of the rivet off.
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Now it gets a little ugly. Due to the but-pad attach screw top nut plate mount's proximity, you can't simply push the shank of the rivet through the hole to remove it. Here I used a combo of flat head, punch, drill and universal problem solving tool to mash the hell out of the shank of that rivet to get it out. Just beat it up until you are able to scrape, crush, pry or beg that little bugger out of the stock.
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Once the rivets are cleared out, you can remove the entire battery storage tubes completely. In fact, once you get the top half of the rivet out, you can probably get the tubes out of the way so you don't damage them. They slide aft to disengage from the stock and require no further disassembly to remove. You might consider using the tubes to store hardware and roll pins for later....
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With the tubes removed, we can now go to work.
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Lets remove the 'friction lock'. Just tap out that forward roll pin and save for later. Once that pin is out, you need to pry and scrap the friction lock off the stock. Careful here. Try to get two long flat-heads in here. At the aft/long end of the friction lock you will see a little slot in which to slip in a flat head and pry it wider for removal. The roll pin underneath these slots is oversized/long and if you are not careful will gouge the inside of the friction lock pretty heavily. I didn't see this at first and damaged mine a little so watch out. (in the end the scars are on the inside and it its still functional so don't stay up late worrying about it Take it easy and use a 3rd hand)
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With the fric-lock removed, the oversized/long roll pin holding the length of pull adjustment mechanism plunger captive is ripe for harvest. Careful here, you'll need that spring some day... and your eyeball. I used a spare punch to block the exit of the spring through the cavity used to install the stock onto the tube. Knock that sucker out and retrieve the hardware from the adjustment mechanism.
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Take the spring from inside the adjustment mechanism, get a little zip-lock baggy, drip a bunch of gun oil and seal it inside for later. Much later...


Now, get your dremel and aluminum rod. Cut a piece that is roughly 3/4" inch long. Go a little long here. The reason I like aluminum not steel, is the ease of working with it. Cut and shave the rod to fit into the adjustment mechanism where the spring used to reside.
View attachment 41164View attachment 41165

As you shave the rod down, keep test fitting the rod into the adjustment mechanism. Remember, the spring is removed and does not go back into the stock. Keep in mind, when test fitting the length of the aluminum rod, there is a channel in the cross rod on the adjustment mechanism. To get the tightest fit, apply some pressure to the bottom of your aluminum rod to ensure that the cross bar is oriented properly. Otherwise, your rod will be too long/short when final assembly time comes.

This part is really up to you. How much wiggle do you want in the adjustment lever? If you don't care or aren't picky, just cut a piece that keeps the plunger from disengaging from the buffer tube and you are ready for assembly. I didn't want any wiggle, so I shaved it down so that the oversize/long roll pin didn't quite fit back into the adjustment mechanism. Then I used the universal problem solver against the side of my punches to compress a channel into the face of the bar stock for the roll pin to fit into. This made the lock up completely immobile, no wiggle or give when the adjustment lever is pressed.
View attachment 41166View attachment 41167

Now, I won't bore you with the reassembly procedure because it is just the reverse of what we just did.

REMEMBER: THE SPRING DOES NOT GO BACK INTO THE ADJUSTMENT MECHANISM/PLUNGER!!! If you cut your aluminum rod to accomodate the spring as well, you are probably wrong, and probably won't get the thing back together again... But feel free to attempt it :) Take the little oiled up baggy you have your spring in and throw it in the stock cavity behind the buffer tube before you close it up with the but-pad
View attachment 41170

Now, I am choosing to use appropriately sized pop rivets to secure my battery tubes back into the stock. While the but pad holds the aft end of the battery tubes captive, I think for AWB purposes, a rivet is much more appropriate. This way you have to un-rivet before using additional, but common hand tools to make the stock functional again. Will I test this length of pull before riveting? Probably...


N'JOY!
Let me know what you think. I intend this to be a tutorial of sorts. It makes sense to me because I just did it. That means there is probably some assumptions on my part and inadequacy in my photos that are not obvious to someone that has not done it before. Let me know if you need a hand or clarification and I will try to help as well as improve the post.
 
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Nice job.

Maybe it's just me, but I can't see pics in your instructions after "With the tubes removed, we can now go to work." I just see links that dead end.
 
Did you click on the link/picture name? I'm not sure why it did this either. When I click on the picture the picture comes up. Does that approach work for you?

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Did you click on the link/picture name? I'm not sure why it did this either. When I click on the picture the picture comes up. Does that approach work for you?

- - - Updated - - -

Did you click on the link/picture name? I'm not sure why it did this either. When I click on the picture the picture comes up. Does that approach work for you?

- - - Updated - - -

Did you click on the link/picture name? I'm not sure why it did this either. When I click on the picture the picture comes up. Does that approach work for you?

Clearly my computer is doing funky-ness... Not sure why that posted 2x...
 
Did you click on the link/picture name? I'm not sure why it did this either. When I click on the picture the picture comes up. Does that approach work for you?

Nope, doesn't work. When I click on a link/picture name, I get this message:

Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator
 
Nope, doesn't work. When I click on a link/picture name, I get this message:

Invalid Attachment specified. If you followed a valid link, please notify the administrator

Hmmm. I fixed a few of them. I did the same thing for all of them as I did the other night and a few more worked tonight. After a couple 'fixes' it started failing to upload the files and not allowing me to put more up. I'm only using about 5mb so far for pics. I will try more tomorrow night.
 
There might be a 10 image limit. You might be better off splitting the original post into two separate posts so you can get them all to upload.
 
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Nice to see another option out there, but had you seen this?

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/118014-How-I-pinned-my-AR15-stock?highlight=pinning+an+ar

Is there any reason why that wouldn't work?

Edit: Nice commercially produced version here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_125/988130_Magpul_MOE_and_CTR_locking_pin_for_Ban_States.html

Edit 2: GAH, nevermind, that's basically what you're doing but you had to get the tubes off to get there. My bad! [smile]

Thanks for the first link - I hadn't seen that method before. Might have to try making one for future builds! I see the guy on ARFcom selling one but I'd rather give it a shot first instead of dropping $20 for one.
 
I've seen this thats where I got the idea. But not on a STR. That one looks like a MOE which is an easy fix because there are no tubes. It is also more vulnerable to being less 'permanent' because the roll pins are not obscured by riveted tubes... I posted this to show people that they are 2 simple rivets away from a nicer stock being made compliant without damaging the stock. My way doesn't need a $20 hunk of metal, just a bolt or bar stock you probably have laying about anyway. Glad you enjoyed it.

Nice to see another option out there, but had you seen this?

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/118014-How-I-pinned-my-AR15-stock?highlight=pinning+an+ar

Is there any reason why that wouldn't work?

Edit: Nice commercially produced version here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_125/988130_Magpul_MOE_and_CTR_locking_pin_for_Ban_States.html

Edit 2: GAH, nevermind, that's basically what you're doing but you had to get the tubes off to get there. My bad! [smile]
 
I've seen this thats where I got the idea. But not on a STR. That one looks like a MOE which is an easy fix because there are no tubes. It is also more vulnerable to being less 'permanent' because the roll pins are not obscured by riveted tubes... I posted this to show people that they are 2 simple rivets away from a nicer stock being made compliant without damaging the stock. My way doesn't need a $20 hunk of metal, just a bolt or bar stock you probably have laying about anyway. Glad you enjoyed it.

Yeah I realized what I missed after I posted [grin]

I agree on spending $20 for the pin, I bought an aluminum rod from home cheapo for like $5 and its enough rod to make like 10 or more pins. I'd only see buying it if you only need one and you don't have any tools whatsoever... But isn't that an excuse to buy tools? [wink]
 
I just did this and wanted to offer up an alternate source of material in case you don't have a scrap of aluminum lying around. Thanks for posting, this was quite helpful.

Also, it wasn't until I took the stock apart that I realized the piece we're trying to replace here isn't the piece of metal that houses the spring. Rather, we're replacing the spring itself with a solid chunk of material. Obvious in hindsight, but I mention it in case I'm not the only one who had the wrong idea at first.

While looking at bits of scrap metal that could fit the bill, I picked up a .22 casing and realized it was just a little too large, but almost right. Tried a .224 Sierra Match King and it was even closer, but just a little too big around. Then I remembered the black Magpul dummy round that was included with the stock, the one that got a little boogered up when installing and removing the stock.

photo (59).jpg

Poked that in there and realized the "projectile" portion was perfect, but the "case" portion was too large. Chucked it into the drill press, quickly turned about an inch of it down to the diameter of the bullet. The material they use is pretty sturdy but shapes easily. I used a rasp, then a file, then a few different grits of sandpaper to quickly get it into shape. Took only a few minutes.

Then I cut the nose of the "bullet" off, fed the thing into the metal piece that drops into the buffer tube, and marked off where to drill the 3/32 hole for the roll pin. I purposely drilled the hole a little farther from the buffer tube end, leaving the piece a little long. Then I used a file on the nose of it to get it perfect with no slop.

photo (60).jpgphoto (61).JPG

Seems to have worked well. I like the fact that I haven't drilled any holes in the buffer tube or the stock. Once it's all back together, it looks brand new except the adjustment lever won't budge.
 
Found this thread doing a google search.

Could you just set in the position you wanted and just "pop" the lever off that you squeeze to move it? That would be a simple way to disable the adjustment feature without too much effort. Easy to restore if you become free again.
 
Found this thread doing a google search.

Could you just set in the position you wanted and just "pop" the lever off that you squeeze to move it? That would be a simple way to disable the adjustment feature without too much effort. Easy to restore if you become free again.


I suppose removing the adjustment lever would make it difficult but not impossible to adjust. I like this way because it still looks like an unmodified stock. Although I've escaped to a free state I am all boxed up in a tiny apartment and can't access the piece now.

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UPDATE: BTW, I have now escaped PRM, at least for the time being. A few minutes, and the stock is back to full operations. No problems.
 
First off thanks so much for the write up .. I just finished up my STR and I have an alternative. Don't remove the tubes… If you take 2 screwdrivers to the sides of the friction lock you can pull it up just enough to get to the roll pin underneath .. and drive it out.. put in your fixed piece.. and done.

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Done and easily reversible as long as you save the spring...
 
Just a quick update to this thread as I am in the process of "pinning" my new Magpul STR and thought I would contribute. All of the information I have found on this message board has been great and a big help! The one thing I am doing differently is to simply replace the spring with a solid 3/16 piece of aluminum or zinc plated rod. There is no reason to machine a whole new piece to slide up into the buffer tube when you can keep the factory parts in place including the cross pin that hols the lever from flapping around in the breeze. The only part you remove is the plunger spring and replace it with the solid rod cut to the right length. I didn't even have to drill a hole in it for the roll pin as the 3/16 rod sits on top of the roll pin just as the spring did.
 
Just a quick update to this thread as I am in the process of "pinning" my new Magpul STR and thought I would contribute. All of the information I have found on this message board has been great and a big help! The one thing I am doing differently is to simply replace the spring with a solid 3/16 piece of aluminum or zinc plated rod. There is no reason to machine a whole new piece to slide up into the buffer tube when you can keep the factory parts in place including the cross pin that hols the lever from flapping around in the breeze. The only part you remove is the plunger spring and replace it with the solid rod cut to the right length. I didn't even have to drill a hole in it for the roll pin as the 3/16 rod sits on top of the roll pin just as the spring did.

Nice idea. If you think of it, take some pictures along the way and post them up for others to see.

I thought about a similar idea for a B5 Bravo before I switched to the Magpul Fixed Carbine Stock. With the B5, I was going to leave the lever off to save a little weight and make it clearer it wasn't adjustable.
 
here is another similar magpul thread for you guys...
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...TR-ACS-stock-non-collapsable-(without-damage)

i hope to be doing a reversible neutering of my new BCM Gunfighter Mod 0 stock this week sometime...it will require dismantling the stock to change the setting...i'll have to take photos and post them up in another thread...i have a pretty easy idea that i think will work for the design
 
I did take a picture of the length of rod that I installed. I cut it a little long and then kept grinding it down with a Dremel until I had the perfect length. It actually worked very nicely without any slop or play whatsoever. I have the picture of the calipers with the measurements on my phone, however, I can't create an album for some reason. [FONT=&quot]The length is 19.40 millimeters or .764 inches. [/FONT]As I stated above, I like the fact that all of the original parts can be kept in place with the exception of the spring.

One thing I should also mention is that I slightly rounded the edges of one end of the rod so that when I installed the roll pin it wouldn't catch the edge of the rod. I think that helped make it easier to install the roll pin to some degree.
 
Pinned my S&W MP 15 today,just changed over to the Magpul STR. I live in the DEMOKRATIK REPUBLIK OF NEW JERSEYSTAN so the stock must be pinned????? followed the Post above till I got here, "With the tubes removed, we can now go to work. " After looking it over I decided not to get into removing anymore parts. Went to ACE Hdwe and picked up a 3/4" 3/32 Roll pin. pin sticks out a little on both sides. NO interference with any moving parts
Used a #38 Drill just drilled straight thru and put in the pin,put all the parts back on works fine. Cannot be moved! The Commisars will approve




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