MA S&W M&P trigger pull

Yeah, it's a block problem.

The Stigma has no business being mentioned in the same sentence as the M&P. I own one of both. It's reliable and accurate enough for defensive purposes, but not much else. Even the original MA trigger on my M&P was not nearly as sloppy as the Stigma's.
 
Yeah, it's a block problem.

The Stigma has no business being mentioned in the same sentence as the M&P. I own one of both. It's reliable and accurate enough for defensive purposes, but not much else. Even the original MA trigger on my M&P was not nearly as sloppy as the Stigma's.

So what would happen if I took a standard trigger model and put the MA trigger spring in it? I assume it would make the trigger pull at least somewhat heavier. I've heard of the reverse being done, an MA model having a standard spring put in. I know the block affects things like mag safeties and the horrid internal lock but I wasn't aware the whole thing had to be changed out to switch from 6.5lbs to 10lbs. pull.
 
So what would happen if I took a standard trigger model and put the MA trigger spring in it? I assume it would make the trigger pull at least somewhat heavier. I've heard of the reverse being done, an MA model having a standard spring put in. I know the block affects things like mag safeties and the horrid internal lock but I wasn't aware the whole thing had to be changed out to switch from 6.5lbs to 10lbs. pull.

FYI..

I called S&W to ask them what exactly was different between an MA trigger and a non-MA trigger. They replied saying the the ONLY difference was the sear housing block. The trigger return spring and all other springs were the same. I even called back a few times and talked to different reps to see if I would get the same response, and indeed I did.
 
Replacing the spring with a nice one can make the trigger a little smoother, but not lighter or heavier. At least that was my experience.
 
I picked up my wife's M&P9 from Greg Derr tonight and wow, what a difference! Smooth, steady, progressive take up to what my totally unqualified finger would judge to be about 5 to 5.5 lbs, then a crisp clean break. That whole notchy, "stagey", non-linear feeling is gone.

Hell, I might even buy one of these for myself now, knowing the trigger can be made to feel like this!

Greg is an extremely nice and professional guy. I went over some options for some work I'll be looking to have done on a Springer 1911 and I can tell he's really good at getting to know what you're looking for.
 
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So what's the verdict? If I buy an M&P and get the trigger job will it be the same trigger as what the rest of the nation gets out of the box? Or is it a different trigger system that will always feel a little heavier and/or different in some way?

Q: anyone know if the M&P 40 can swap barrels with .357Sig and use the same .40 mags for .357Sig like the Sig Sauer pistols can?
 
Once you get a trigger job, it will be BETTER and SMOOTHER than the trigger that 48 states get.

If you want it to be. The non-MA trigger is about 6.5# and a little rough. It seems to smooth out after about 500+ rounds.

Q: anyone know if the M&P 40 can swap barrels with .357Sig and use the same .40 mags for .357Sig like the Sig Sauer pistols can?

Yes!
 
I've seen Storm Lake barrels on sale online. My question is that I see a barrel for th M&P 40/.357 that steps it down to 9mm. Is this possible? Are new 9mm magazines nesssary and will they fit in the M&P .40. I can understand how the .40 and .357 are interchangeable. But going from .40 to 9mm seems a bit farfetched. Can anybody shed some light on this? http://www.midwesthuntersoutlet.com/item.aspx?pid=75899
 
Yes, it's the same as how they do it with Glocks. Expect reduced reliability and extraction. They're for range purposes only
 
To add another data point, I just tested a new M&P 9 FS (US Std trigger) today. The trigger pull (tested 20 times with a Lyman Electronic Trigger Gauge) and found that it ran 7# 10 oz. It feels real gritty, but after ~500+ rds thru it, it will likely smooth out.
 
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