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MA licensed plumbers - Exterior bib question

Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by SeanT, Jul 11, 2019.

  1. SeanT

    SeanT NES Member

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    Hi guys (and gals),
    Hoping someone can weigh in on this with knowledge off the top of their heads rather than me going through code... I need to replace the exterior hose bibs on my house. They already have an inside shutoff fairly close to where they kick out. The question is, am I required to install frost-free faucets or can I install what I want (would prefer 1/4 turn ball valve type faucets)? I know it’s my house so I can do what I want but we’re eventually going to sell. I would prefer this not to come up as a violation or something “wrong” on the home inspection.

    As backstory, my house was used as a rental for a while before we bought it. Whoever was renting appears to have treated the exterior spigots as crap and/or never turned off the water in the winter. As a result, they are cracked, leak a fair amount when on, and are now starting to leak when off. I like the 1/4 ball valve as I feel they work better and last longer overall compared to traditional style faucets.

    Thanks in advance for any replies.
     

  2. clampett

    clampett NES Member

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    I think code requires you to install the type of outdoor faucet that has a back flow preventer on it.
     
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  3. Super99Z

    Super99Z NES Member

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    Code requires a plumber do it, so do whatever you want. No plumber no code! Most frost-frees are 1/4-turn. Frost-frees are not code but why wouldn't you?
     
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  4. TLB

    TLB

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    Because they kind of suck and he has a shut off accessible on the inside?

    I wouldn't worry about a spigot during home inspection. Not a big deal...
     
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  5. Fixxah

    Fixxah NES Member

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    No. A vacuum breaker that screws on.
     
  6. mjbitt

    mjbitt NES Member

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  7. Palladin

    Palladin NES Member

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    I just replaced both of mine, $35 ea at HD, then two sharkbite couplings at $7 ea.
    30 minutes total.
     
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  8. Super99Z

    Super99Z NES Member

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    Why do frost frees kind of suck?
     
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  9. Spanz

    Spanz NES Member

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    i like them, because back in the day i used to FORGET to drain them before it got freezing outside. and the built in air breaker allows you do drain the hose connected to it easily, so the hose does not freeze too

    when did they become 1/4 turn...they used to be multi turn frost frees, only a couple years ago.
     
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  10. SeanT

    SeanT NES Member

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    Part of the reason I’ve been putting this off is due to the current ones being soldered in. Now that they’re leaking even when off, I feel more compelled to do something about it. I plan to make any future replacements easier so maybe I should just bite the bullet and put something in similar to what’s coming out.
     
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  11. falcon123

    falcon123 NES Member

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    Move to a warm climate and you won't have this problem.
     
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  12. Dennis in MA

    Dennis in MA NES Member

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    Ooh ha ha.

    [​IMG]


    I should replace my back faucet, but it's never on. LOL. The front one goes THROUGH the garage (garage and porch put on after the original house was built) so it's frosty back about 16' (and around a corner) from the actual faucet. But at hte lake, this might be interesting. Quarter-turn would be nice as well.
     
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  13. andrew1220

    andrew1220 NES Member

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    Reminds me that I need to replace mine. The faucet/spigot valve whatever it's called, rusted to shit and I just yanked it off last spring. I've been running a hose from my laundry sink through the basement window...[laugh]

    But these sharkbite things seem like they would make it easier to replace. Especially for a plumbing noob like myself.
    Here's what mine looks like. It looks like it's threaded (see 3rd photo)? but I haven't tried to unscrew it. I suspect it's prob seized on since it's been there for 30+ years.
    GetAttachmentThumbnail.jpg gfgf.jpg IMG_0476.JPG
     
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  14. Palladin

    Palladin NES Member

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    that's soldered in place. mine had a female adapter on the house line, so i bought a compatible length hose bib, cut out a small piece between the shutoff and the fem adapter, screwed the bib into the adapter, then pushed it all thru the hole in the side of the house, right into the sharkbite coupling. measure 3 times, cut once
     
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  15. andrew1220

    andrew1220 NES Member

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    Oh nevermind. I'll have to buy a pipe/tubing cutter then. My plumbing experience/knowledge is fairly limited. I'll watch some YouTube videos. Can't be too difficult....
     
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  16. Synyster

    Synyster

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    No one is going to pass over your house just because it doesn't have frost free, anti-siphon hose bib. No one is going to ask to see proof that a plumber did the job either. They are about $30 from Home Depot.

    I just replaced mine in the back of the house. Used a screw on adapter because I know the bibs are cheaply made not to last now a days.
     
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  17. TLB

    TLB

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    I just like the more solid feel of a conventional bib. People also think they can leave a hose on them and they get trashed. Not a great argument, I'm sure. That's why I said "kind of"....
     
  18. Gorony

    Gorony NES Member

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    FWIW, you might be able to remove the white retaining part, and then remove/replace the inside stem without replacing the entire fixture.


    View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JOsmL2XtyMw
     
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  19. Fixxah

    Fixxah NES Member

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    Ignore the sticker that says to remove hose before winter?
     
  20. Spanz

    Spanz NES Member

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    sticker?

    STICKER?

    WE DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' STICKERS!
     
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  21. Spanz

    Spanz NES Member

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  22. andrew1220

    andrew1220 NES Member

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    My dad did this many years ago. I wish he passed on his handyman skills to me. He can do just about anything.
     
  23. Spanz

    Spanz NES Member

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    what, to sweat solder?
    Go buy some fittings at home despot, get a cheapo torch, some paste flux, one of those inside/outside wire brushes (or sand cloth), and roll of solder, and have at it.

    sand off the copper oxide inside the female joint, and the outside of the metal pipe. Coat them both with some paste flux, put the heat on the outside of the female joint (like an elbow, tee)....and move it around so the heat spreads. Once in a while let the flame go a little on the male pipe also. When it seems hot, unroll 6" or wire solder, and touch it to the joint between pipe and fitting. When the fitting is hot enough, the solder will melt and magically draw up into the fitting. keep applying solder, all around the lip, until it is full.

    Turn off the torch, take a slightly damp cloth and clean up the big drip on the bottom of the pipe, and DO NOT MOVE IT until it hardens...not even a little .


    really the only things you can screw up is not cleaning the joints first with wire brush/sandpaper, applying the heat to the pipe instead of the fitting, Or applying sooooo much heat that the fitting "burns" and becomes unsolderable
     
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  24. ToddDubya

    ToddDubya NES Member

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    This works. I did exactly that and after a few fittings I was like "oh, I guess I can do that now". Just remember to heat the fitting, not the pipe. And MAP gas (yellow) is easier (quicker) than propane (blue). Last but not least, always remember to be sure of your target and what's beyond.
     
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  25. Fixxah

    Fixxah NES Member

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    If you have type M copper, beware. It gets really thin if the water sucks and will crush when cutting it.

    Type M has red writing along its length.
     
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  26. HorizontalHunter

    HorizontalHunter NES Member

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  27. Fixxah

    Fixxah NES Member

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    The porcelain seats crack easily so be gentle with them.
     
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  28. andrew1220

    andrew1220 NES Member

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    Damn, thanks for the advice/instructions! Is there any disadvantage to using those sharkbite couplings? Those not a long term durable solution or? Then again I rarely use my hose.
     
  29. ToddDubya

    ToddDubya NES Member

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    I heard a plumber say to never use them where you can't easily get to them when they leak. He loved them for new construction (during construction) where he might be capping off lines or whatever. I'm not a plumber and am not opposed to sweating pipes for small jobs.
     

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