M1896 Mauser Question

M125X

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Hey guys, recently acquired an old 1898 Swedish Mauser. The previous owner had not fired it, however I would like to since that's what guns are for! 6.5X55 and Numbers matching it appears to be in great condition. Plan on taking a closer look this week. That being said, I would normally check the headspace with go/no-go/field gauges and the like. However, when doing some research I came across this site and it said that often the no-go gauge will fit the Mauser yet they are still perfectly safe to shoot:

Am I go to go with checking and just making sure that "field" doesn't fit. If that's the case any other precautions besides a good cleaning/oiling/inspection?

Guy said I should fire it from a bench with a string to be safe... but I feel like he is just being over cautious. I have never done this with any of my C&R's before; usually just bring them to the range.

Thoughts?
 
it never hurts to check it with a field gauge. Just remember that the gauges are more than likely going to be to SAMMI spec not 100 yr old swede specs.
Do you have a case headspace comparator ?

If so you can at least do the poor mans headspace check. measure a unfired case , then keep adding a layer of scotch tape at the case head until the bolt wont seat. do this with a stripped bolt and basically the weight of the bolt handle?
will give you a general Idea of headspace.

personally I would be looking closely for cracks around the lugs and such before headspace worries?

1618746056999.png
 
Swedish Mausers didn't see much if any combat use, were well made and maintained, and came into the US in the 1950s-90s, depending on the import batch. They're probably among the best looked-after surplus guns on the market, at least until the guns went into consumers' hands here in the US - but even still, most people who buy Swedish Mausers generally aren't using the rifles very hard.

Point is, while its always good to double check everything, I wouldn't worry too much about Swedish Mausers being severely out-of-spec unless there's visual or tactile queues that make you question the gun. I'm not saying the gun can't be out-of-spec, of course.
 
The only milsurp I ever owned that I headspace checked before shooting was my first Mosin. I think people are way too worried about this. IMO unless its rode hard it should be fine. If the bore is nearly shot out its probably worth checking. Otherwise I'd shoot it and examine the case after the first shot for signs of excessive headspace. But do what makes you feel safe.
 
Headspace on old milsurps is extremely important if you use reloaded ammunition to avoid overexpansion of cases to the point of failure. A rifle that might be perfectly safe to fire with factory fresh brass can be deadly with reloads due to the inability of the brass to safely fill the tolerance of excessive headspace. Okie gauges were the best, but I think the owner passed away. Maybe try these guys:
 
Headspace on old milsurps is extremely important if you use reloaded ammunition to avoid overexpansion of cases to the point of failure. A rifle that might be perfectly safe to fire with factory fresh brass can be deadly with reloads due to the inability of the brass to safely fill the tolerance of excessive headspace. Okie gauges were the best, but I think the owner passed away. Maybe try these guys:
excellent point!
 
it never hurts to check it with a field gauge. Just remember that the gauges are more than likely going to be to SAMMI spec not 100 yr old swede specs.
Do you have a case headspace comparator ?

If so you can at least do the poor mans headspace check. measure a unfired case , then keep adding a layer of scotch tape at the case head until the bolt wont seat. do this with a stripped bolt and basically the weight of the bolt handle?
will give you a general Idea of headspace.

personally I would be looking closely for cracks around the lugs and such before headspace worries?

View attachment 473619


Good advice. My usual procedure before firing a new-to-me milsurp is basic safety checks....carefully checking the bolt/bolt lugs for cracks/chips/etc, checking the chamber, pulling the action out of the stock to check for pitting or any other structural damage, etc. If I'm not fully confident in the rifle I'll shoot a few rounds using the string method then I'll check the brass afterwards. I don't necessarily check headspace unless I think it's a potential problem after firing a few rounds.
 
I fired my m96/38 without checking headspace.

I would check on a Mosin (I used an Okie gauge as referenced above) and have checked some of my other milsurps.

I would also check an Arisaka. I never checked my M1s as CMP test fires them.

When firing a new to me milsurp that I haven't checked, I do try to do it without putting my face right in the danger zone.
 
Not saying this is the correct approach, but this is how I handled my recently acquired Swede: Inspected bore- it was pristine. Inspected bolt, bolt lugs, chamber, and receiver for anything obvious- cracks, excessive wear, corrosion, etc. All clear. I primarily shoot for paper punching, so the loads are relatively mild but must be stout enough to get a good 'seal' at the case mouth & shoulder and have enough powder for good case fill and consistent velocity. Carbon fouling back on the case outer wall means that's not happening. Reinspect after the first few shots.

As others have mentioned, trouble with the Swedes is rare. I'm neck sizing my reloads with good success. With a little work on load development, I could shoot 1.3" groups at 100 yards with it, which is close to the limit of my eyes and ability regardless of rifle.

If its point of impact is very high relative to your point of aim on the lowest rear sight elevation, you may need a taller front sight.
 
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