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M14 kits back in stock

Tempting. Just sold a nice bolt gun and could start another project. Did the price go up? Not sure it's as good of a deal at $500. I'd probably sell the stock and go with a fiberglass one, so maybe get $75 to $100 for the stock depending upon what it is? So $400 for just the parts kit- is that a decent deal?
 
I am tempted too, but recently bought a nice bolt gun and have to take a little break before starting any new projects...
:(

But I love that new Eddystone !
 
I am tempted too, but recently bought a nice bolt gun and have to take a little break before starting any new projects...
:(

But I love that new Eddystone !

LOL, glad you like it. I'll probably regret it later- that Win barrel was pretty nice.
 
What’s a barreled receiver with a bolt going for?
Would it be cheaper to try and find a whole one?

Probably cheaper to buy the whole enchilada, depending upon what you want. I think the cool part about these kits is that they are USGI. I do know that the parts rabbit hole for M1A's / M14's is a lot deeper $$ than for AR's.
 
Did the price go up? Not sure it's as good of a deal at $500. I'd probably sell the stock and go with a fiberglass one, so maybe get $75 to $100 for the stock depending upon what it is? So $400 for just the parts kit- is that a decent deal?

Price went from 4 to 500. The original 400 was an error, to be corrected when the parts kits came back in stock....behold.

Still a good deal, IMO.

I like building things and doing the work myself. Built my Garand, Service Rifle, M14, have done stocks on several rifles. I hate that Franco is currently doing my 1917 re-barrel, not because I don't think he will do a good job, but because I am not doing it myself.

Nothing wrong with buying an out of the box Springfield M1A and callling it a day either.
 
Just how good are the parts? Especially, say. the operating rod spring?
mine was very nice with very little wear, the spring looked as good as my new one I have. Stock was typical serviceable gi stock little loose and dinged up.
 
Tempting. Just sold a nice bolt gun and could start another project. Did the price go up? Not sure it's as good of a deal at $500. I'd probably sell the stock and go with a fiberglass one, so maybe get $75 to $100 for the stock depending upon what it is? So $400 for just the parts kit- is that a decent deal?
im going to say as long as the parts are in spec $500 is a good deal. Just price out a USGI trigger group, rear sight set and a op rod.

I don't see to many USGI parts kits that are not refinished like this
USGI M14 Complete Parts Kit (Semi-Auto)
 
Price went from 4 to 500. The original 400 was an error, to be corrected when the parts kits came back in stock....behold.

Still a good deal, IMO.

I like building things and doing the work myself. Built my Garand, Service Rifle, M14, have done stocks on several rifles. I hate that Franco is currently doing my 1917 re-barrel, not because I don't think he will do a good job, but because I am not doing it myself.

Nothing wrong with buying an out of the box Springfield M1A and callling it a day either.

Gotcha regarding the price.

I had Franco give my CMP Special a once-over and had him do a few minor tweaks that were not that expensive. Didn't make a big difference in slow prone but it consistently helped my scores in rapids. I've built most of my rifles, but wanted to give the last one to Franco for a Krieger barrel and the full treatment. I don't think you have seen this one yet. I'll be shooting it in VT.

im going to say as long as the parts are in spec $500 is a good deal. Just price out a USGI trigger group, rear sight set and a op rod.

I don't see to many USGI parts kits that are not refinished like this
USGI M14 Complete Parts Kit (Semi-Auto)

Ouch- would hate to pay that kind of money for a parts kit. Seems like the USGI M1A / M14 stuff is getting tighter and tighter- more so than Garands and their parts. I'll probably go ahead and take advantage of this deal in lieu of other plans for the guns fund.
 
Gotcha regarding the price.

I had Franco give my CMP Special a once-over and had him do a few minor tweaks that were not that expensive. Didn't make a big difference in slow prone but it consistently helped my scores in rapids. I've built most of my rifles, but wanted to give the last one to Franco for a Krieger barrel and the full treatment. I don't think you have seen this one yet. I'll be shooting it in VT.



Ouch- would hate to pay that kind of money for a parts kit. Seems like the USGI M1A / M14 stuff is getting tighter and tighter- more so than Garands and their parts. I'll probably go ahead and take advantage of this deal in lieu of other plans for the guns fund.
Thats because over 10 years of service they only made 1mil of these POS rifles and im sure the parts supply was not vast like the M1 with 5.5mil or so and a 25 year service life and another 10 or more in reserves.
My dad was in the army early 60s and shot the M14 did his min years and went to air force where he shot the M16a1 (says he did a little qualifying because they had rifles in the hangers in the event the base was attacked ) when he did his time in AF he joined army reserves and they had garands.
Fun stuff. Plus the cult following of the M14 is pretty strong.

I bailed on another kit. Im going to just get mine up and running and shoot it once a year at cmp match.
 
Thats because over 10 years of service they only made 1mil of these POS rifles and im sure the parts supply was not vast like the M1 with 5.5mil or so and a 25 year service life and another 10 or more in reserves.
My dad was in the army early 60s and shot the M14 did his min years and went to air force where he shot the M16a1 (says he did a little qualifying because they had rifles in the hangers in the event the base was attacked ) when he did his time in AF he joined army reserves and they had garands.
Fun stuff. Plus the cult following of the M14 is pretty strong.

So true! It's a big positive for getting technical assistance from the online community. As we know, M14's / M1A's don't just snap together like the typical AR Lego kit. There's a pretty big contingent of actively posting experienced armorers or at least armorer types. The negative is that there are so many rabid fans that they quickly grab up any available good components.

The worst part is there is a large contingent of know-it-alls who really don't shoot much if at all. Those are the guys buying up all the good parts that never see the light of day and if the parts are even put into a rifle, the rifle never goes to the range. These guys remind me of a kid who can tell you everything about a Pokemon card- what Pokemon it evolved from and will evolve to, what cartoon episode it appears in, when the card was printed, how many were printed, etc, and finally why it's the best one to have and why all the other ones suck. [smile] To each his own, but it sucks when you need parts to actually shoot something.
 
So true! It's a big positive for getting technical assistance from the online community. As we know, M14's / M1A's don't just snap together like the typical AR Lego kit. There's a pretty big contingent of actively posting experienced armorers or at least armorer types. The negative is that there are so many rabid fans that they quickly grab up any available good components.

The worst part is there is a large contingent of know-it-alls who really don't shoot much if at all. Those are the guys buying up all the good parts that never see the light of day and if the parts are even put into a rifle, the rifle never goes to the range. These guys remind me of a kid who can tell you everything about a Pokemon card- what Pokemon it evolved from and will evolve to, what cartoon episode it appears in, when the card was printed, how many were printed, etc, and finally why it's the best one to have and why all the other ones suck. [smile] To each his own, but it sucks when you need parts to actually shoot something.
Theres really little reason for the M14 platform not to snap together like a AR. The garand/M14/AR have to pass parts interchange test. Current manufactures claim mil spec but when called out on why its really not mil spec you get smashed for not knowing how hard it is to make a part designed 50 years ago and made on machines that where most likely as old.
Small tid bit. I handed a old man machinist blue prints for the M1garand and asked if he could make one. "Yup but it will take some time as i would have to set up and reconfigure for different steps get me the alloy and heat treat codes and we can see what we can do" sadly tbe machine shop moved to texas after obumah won 2nd term. I recently learned the old man passed a few years ago. I called them in texas to see if they would do my front sight projects. His son said his dad was a master he could do more with a rusty file than he can do with millions $ in machines.
i liked his dad. Did lots of small one of projects for me. Never heard him say "cant" or no to any project. He often said places either dont know or dont have the tools or its all about the $
On what they do or dont do and decide if its good for them or not.
 
To each their own, I'd sooner buy a complete AR10 or two and a pile of mags for same money.
 
To each their own, I'd sooner buy a complete AR10 or two and a pile of mags for same money.
Correct sir. I wont have $20k anytime soon to get a "real" M14 so to fill that "service rifles of US " hole the USGI kits are as close as i can get.
Im just a little hard on the M1a/M14 more so because of new manufactured parts.
 
To each their own, I'd sooner buy a complete AR10 or two and a pile of mags for same money.

I did go for an AR10 build first before messing around with a M14 build. Glad I did that- I squeaked in the AR10 via completing and registering a few days before all the Healy BS. Built it as a 6.5 CM and it's a .5 to .7 MOA tack-driver. It's my go-to for long range shooting at Granby and would be my go-to for long distance hunting. As a battle rifle, I still think the M14 has the reliability advantage without the direct impingement fouling and a much stronger action that will close the bolt into battery despite most fouling or debris. They'll damn near go into battery on your thumb if you are ever dumb enough (like me) to leave your thumb in the way.

A Sage EBR build would be cool to do, but for sure its going to hit the wallet harder than an AR10 build would.

ebr1.jpg
 
I did go for an AR10 build first before messing around with a M14 build. Glad I did that- I squeaked in the AR10 via completing and registering a few days before all the Healy BS. Built it as a 6.5 CM and it's a .5 to .7 MOA tack-driver. It's my go-to for long range shooting at Granby and would be my go-to for long distance hunting. As a battle rifle, I still think the M14 has the reliability advantage without the direct impingement fouling and a much stronger action that will close the bolt into battery despite most fouling or debris. They'll damn near go into battery on your thumb if you are ever dumb enough (like me) to leave your thumb in the way.

A Sage EBR build would be cool to do, but for sure its going to hit the wallet harder than an AR10 build would.

ebr1.jpg
ugly POS ! Those sage stocks run what $700 ? f***s no

Its got one of those cute mags in it ....
 
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ugly POS ! Those sage stocks run what $700 ? f***s no

Its got one of those cute mags in it ....

It would have to be used. NFW would I pay new price. Might just go with a McMillan or the like and use it as a bedding project.

OK ugly, but I like that.
 
It would have to be used. NFW would I pay new price. Might just go with a McMillan or the like and use it as a bedding project.

OK ugly, but I like that.
Im just screwing around. If you find a used sage stock it will most likely cost more than new. ...
 
I did go for an AR10 build first before messing around with a M14 build. Glad I did that- I squeaked in the AR10 via completing and registering a few days before all the Healy BS. Built it as a 6.5 CM and it's a .5 to .7 MOA tack-driver. It's my go-to for long range shooting at Granby and would be my go-to for long distance hunting. As a battle rifle, I still think the M14 has the reliability advantage without the direct impingement fouling and a much stronger action that will close the bolt into battery despite most fouling or debris. They'll damn near go into battery on your thumb if you are ever dumb enough (like me) to leave your thumb in the way.

A Sage EBR build would be cool to do, but for sure its going to hit the wallet harder than an AR10 build would.

ebr1.jpg

Glad you got in under the wire. I live in a free state so I don't have such restrictions. I thought about 6.5 caliber but trying to keep things a bit more standardized. For long distance, I'll get out the .50bmg rifle. Minute of man is all I care about, not neuro surgery at 1000 yds.:D
 
Learned what the a modified connector lock is. Lets just say its to short for use with a USGI stock.
 
Just picked up the parts kit during lunch. I've only looked at the stock, which seems to be in nice condition. There's a ding / scrape over the cartouche but it may steam out OK. Otherwise pretty good shape. Might be birch, but the grain seems a little heavy like walnut and is very straight. Hardware on the stock looks pretty good. I'll dig it all out over the weekend and post a pic or two.

Now to find the receiver/bolt/barrel combo...

Edit-

Appears to be a fairly nice walnut stock. There was some sort of old packing paper stuck to it here and there- that's what I thought was light colored wood showing through and the reason I thought birch. I think it went into the kits pile because of the dings over the top of the cartouche. I bet it steams out halfway decently. I was able to take some pretty horrendous dings out of my Winchester M1 stock.

Op rod is HRA and looks barely used. Trigger group shows more use and is also HRA. Any way to know if the stock is HRA?

Where did HRA make the M14's?
 
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